This posting is almost a "copy and paste" of this thread in the DCS forum: Two MS FFB2 with Cougar Grip and I think this is worth sharing with a greater audience because I'm really,really very satisfied with this controller.
And after I opened my trusty (btw:8 years old) MS-FFB2 for the first time I saw that it might be is possible to attach a second mechanism to it to double the FFB force - so the extended handle will still be hold in place in every situation.
I also found out when DirectX send a FFB command it will executed by every FFB controller you add. I found it out by moving my MS-FFB2 and saw that the Logitech FBB-steering wheel turned also in the x-axis the same as the joystick...
So I bought the second MS-FFB2 (at a price I don't dare to tell... the seller didn't know what he was offering... - I gave him 10€ extra in the end...).
When you plug in two MS-FFB2 - they will react in sync to a FFB command. So I realised that I "only" have to reconnect some wires of the second MS-FFB2 to sync both. - at least in DCS-Simulations.
Nice -isn't it ?!
So here is what I did :
Here a some photos of the most important steps with explanation so you get a Idea what I have done. They are not meant to use as a manual and there is no chronological order (!) - it's just how I did it... There are also some steps missing (I just didn't took pictures) Using the methods / circuits / components / constructions as described in this document is entirely at your own risk. If you damage your PC / Joystick / Keyboard / Yourself by any of the things I wrote down in this document, it’s NOT MY FAULT.
Here you can see what holds every thing in "balance" and helps the motors to hold the heavy stick in place :
Tip how to calculate the needed counterweight:
That is tight....and chaotic! (don't worry... - I haver already taped everything together and the gears are not distributed by the wires - but don't have a picture.)
almost forgot ....
But It just fitted !!! ( the controller board of the TM-Cougar is behind the wooden plate in the middle) All held reliable together by Velcro! From the board goes a 5-pin cable through the FFB mechanics, to the s-shaped tube, into the metal joint of the TM-Cougar that connects to the cougar grip.
Very Important thing:
Very important but isn't shown:
To make both MS-FFB work together in sync you have to mirror the X and Y axis of the second (the lower one) FFB-Mechanism. That means you will have to swap the cables for both potentiometers and also swap the cables for both motors. (what is connected to + has to be connected to the - ).
Potis for X/Y axis : swap the brown and the orange wire(leave the red one as it is) and also connect x to y and vice versa. - do the same with the wires for the motors.
And I also extended every wire so I could connect everything back together in the end. I also used hot-glue/lock-tight on every screw/nut - so It can't get loose when the motors vibrate.
The controller- boards are simply hold by hook and loop fastener sticky-pads - so It is easy to maintain (If needed) and so it was easy to put them inside the box. As you can see - there is no more room left (not even a screwdriver ) - so Velcro was the best and only solution.
In DCS I only have asigned the x/y axis of the upper MS-FFB2.
Edit: Before this question(s) arise again I will post a PM conversation:
Originally Posted By: PeterP
Originally Posted By: anonymous
I have been outbid on the last 5 MICROSOFT SIDEWINDER FORCE FEEDBACK 2 off eBay. Sorry caps it was a copy paste. I'm getting frustrated. If I'm going to go try FFB I want something that really kicks.
What I want to know is how much pressure does your mod give you on the stick? I was thinking of buying a logictech g940 and was wondering how you would compare it. Also, how good are the pots on your Microsoft stick? Any spiking?
and keep in mind that the handle weights about 0,7kg (1.5 lbs) and there is also a counterweight of 1,5 kg (3.3 lbs) inside the box.
I can't really talk/comment about the g940 and compare (I had it only 4 days and I was very disappointed of the overall performance - this was 1,5 years ago). The force was a little weaker to a MS-FFB2 if I recall correctly.
The potis of the MS-FFB2 are really OK - and I don't want to change them - I'm able to fly very stable/precise I and have also no problems doing AA-refuelings in the A-10c. Watch this track if you need a proof : http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?p=1358180#post1358180 This was recorded witch a single MS-FFB2 but there is no lack in Precision with my mod. - It is even better now because I have the stick now extended. And with this longer throw I'm able to make much finer adjustments.
Hi Hoplite, no need to change something at the warthog at all ...!
When you have done a similar stick-base like I with the MS-FFB2's you only need something like this:
at the end of the extension (I of course used the old connection of my Cougar base) - goggle for "gardena" hosepipe adapters... (you can see them in the first post on the third image) and than you need only a male/female 5-pin mini-din wire from the grip to the base of your warthog.
I made my wire-connection 1,5m long - so I will have no problem to "upgrade" to a TM-Warthog grip without changing a single thing.
Ok got my self two used MS FF2 SWs. Just ran some flights in IL-2 with them, they appear to be in tip-top conditon. I had never flown with one and it's incedible how much diference they make on a sim such as IL-2 1946. I'm formating my Desktop right now, but I can't wait to try them in Rise of FLight, my unmodded cougar is a bit.... bad for that. Now it's modding time! I have a little diferent Idea for an aproach though. I intend to keep my cougar base intact (mostly) with it's electronics still inside it, then I'll just try to run the 5 wire cable from the FF assemlbly and plug it to the cougar base. And whenever I want to fly Falcon 4 BMS I'll re-atach the cougar to it's base wich I plan to MOD with this http://www.viperpits.org/smf/index.php?action=forum I think you have to be registred at ViperPits to see the download link though.
That way I plan to have the best of both worlds whenever situation call it for.