the problem with the total RTR/RTF stuff is that the included radio and running gear is junk. if you have a desire to use a real radio, there are plenty of kits and ARF aircraft to choose from; provided you don't mind shopping for servos, engines/motors, batteries, etc...

that is not to say RTF planes aren't worth it, but if you intend to stick with the hobby, the toy radios just aren't going to cut it.

Plug and Play kits are now very popular, which include servos and motors, but not radios. Some are decent, other's aren't.

Based on my experience in the industry, its more that kit builders like to overbuild their models. They modify the plans based on their fears. They also tend to over-engine every plane. If its a .91 fs called for they want to put in a 1.60. That's fine, their choice, but they tend to have throttle control issues as a result.



This is generally true, but it really depends on the manufacturer. Sure, if you buy from nitroplanes and you have a problem, you're on your own. If you buy, however, from KMP or SIG or some others, you can certainly call the manufacturer and ask for help. I worked for KMP, I often did it all day long.

Solartex is only moderately heavier when painted. Anything bigger than a .60 sized plane should be able to handle it without a problem.

The difference in finish is really obvious. A nicely sprayed paint job on solartex will look outstanding, whereas a painted finish of any sort on monokote, ultracote or any of the million 'chinacoat' coverings will chip off within a few uses. The material is not designed to have paint adhere to it.

Sounds about right. I know I tend to overbuild, but I see it as a plus. Personally I try to stick to the engine class the plane was built for. If I build a 40, I'll put in a 46 or 51 at most, mainly to compensate for the overbuilding I know I do.



Thanks for the tip, I never thought of calling the manufacturer for plan availability! So obvious now!

There are some fantastic light weight coverings out there that take paint very well, I mainly use litespan and polyspan ( both basically synthetic tissue ) on my stuff (WWI types with wingspans between 40-70") as they both paint very well, have a good texture for WWI and old canvas covered birds, and are exceptionally light in weight. Doculam comes in a variety weights and is another great option if used in the appropriate situation. It is definitely a horses for courses subject, but there are so many options on the Market we are spoilt for choice and it is well worth studying up on what is available to suit your needs!
Even some of the 'chinacoat' coverings will hold paint pretty well if the surface is cleaned and keyed before application.

Cheers
Craig

I know that if you call KMP with a repair issue, and we don't know off the top of our head we'd go out to the warehouse, find one, and try and figure it out. We also sold replacement parts.

Anybody had any experience with either profile or semi-profile park flyers?
I've been looking at an F-105 model that seems fairly straightforward but I have no idea how well the profile models fly.
I'd appreciate any opinions since I've been out of R/C airplanes of any kind for a long time.

Wolf, a Profile model is basically like those balsa gliders you get and stick the wing through a slot and the tail-feathers on and it's an airplane. The entire fuselage is vertical surface area and it's a profile of whatever plane it's intended to look like with the wing having the only three dimensional cross section that it requires for airfoil, but not always. You can usually find videos on You-tube of guys flying these things 3-D hanging on the prop around the garage. There are lots of electric stuff out there and no end to the possibilities with small electric ducted fan (EDF) and lightweight Styrofoam, I haven't yet seen a Thud but it's not impossible.

Thanks, I think I'll look into it farther, seems like a fairly cheap way to get back into the hobby.
I've downloaded several set of plans and so far it looks fairly easy compared to some of the scratch build planes I've done in the past.
I have an open field approximately 300 x 600 about a block from the house and most of the planes I'm looking at are fairly slow so this field should be just about ideal from a room and safety standpoint.

WOLF