I know most of you trim like crazy, but with the non-FFB joystick and the release-0.5-sec-after-pressing-trim issues, I find that this doesn't work for me at all.

I've found that if I trim for hover, the helo acts more "familiar," more predictable. My background is flying helos in EECH and Gunship! and so I'm not sure if this is just the new flight model or if co-axial rotors is something I'm just not used to. Anyway, I trim as close to a hover as I can, then I guide my helo through the route. I must admit this method is more arm-straining, but not being confused as to the actual position of the stick, I can make minute adjustments and my flight is more "under control" and feels more natural. Then as I approach my set-up point, I just slow down, let the helo settle, then engage hover hold.

Then hunting time!

I wonder who else uses a different trim method?

Try Flying with the Flight Director on. It feels more em... natural to me.

Also, use the controls indicator (RCTRL-Enter), it is vital in Black Shark.

Nate

I use the trim like I use force-trim in real life, I hold down the trimmer button until I get the helicopter where I want, then release it. Then I only have to apply pressure against the stick to make minor corrections.

Of course, my Saitek X52 (non-force feedback) returns to the center spring-loaded position, and any movements after that will be from the "new center". However, I find it's a lot easier to fly precise maneuvers when you hold the trimmer down the entire time, and release it only when you return to stable flight.

A lot of helo pilots that fly with force-trim aircraft have different techniques. Some will set the force-trim on their cyclic at straight and level flight, and then fight against the force-trim throughout the maneuvers. The logic is the cyclic will always return to a position consistent with stable flight. Other pilots will "bump" the force-trim, or tap it how you described.

I have a rubberband around the column of my X52 that I sometimes loop around the "adjustment screw" on the front side of the handguard, and then loop the other end around the plastic base of the spring. This eliminates the spring-resistence for most of the sticks travel (depending on the tension of the rubberband); the bad-side is you have to keep your "hand on the cyclic" otherwise it will just fall forward, sending you into a zero-G nose dive.

PS: I couldn't hit the broad side of a barn with the rockets or fixed gun until I started holding down the trimmer button during my attack. The problem with this is you need to map both weapon triggers to your joystick trigger itself, no "pickle" buttons since your thumb is occupied during the engagement. Just my technique anyway.

+1 try the Flight Director. Its the best thing to happen to heli's since coaxial rotor blades (JOKE NOT MEANING TO START A TRADITIONAL VS COAXIAL WAR)

I'm doing it the old way - press trimmer, make attitude adjustment, release trimmer, recenter joystick. Even for little adjustments. It sounds like a lot but after years of doing it, it comes naturally and quickly to me now. Actually it didn't take long to get into it, I think about 1 month after purchasing BS it became natural. Like alot of things it's practice, practice, practice.

Untick the 'CENTRAL POSITION TRIMMER MODE' box.

Start learning the proper way

Press-Immediate-Release

After a while it becomes second nature.

+1

That is how I trim the copter in BS2 as well. I always thought this was the proper way. It seems so natural this way.

Hmmm.... just did a flight with the Flight Director on and that was a blast. I'm not "trim-like-crazy" at the moment though, I trim for my desired forward-flight attitude, make minor adjustments (no trim), and just re-trim if the aircraft starts acting weird.

Highlight of the night was my rock-stable, no-deviation hover. Whoo!

So I guess I'm now in the middle-ground now, not trimming religiously, but appreciating it's usefulness.

Don't forget the trim button is doing 2 things at once. When you press trim the auto pilot is in a similar mode to the Flight Director mode, when you release the trim, 2 things happen...

1 - the new cyclic stick centre position is set.
2 - the Pitch, bank and heading on release is what the AP system tries to maintain.

It will fight you to Maintain No.2, this is why you must trim often, to reset the Pitch, bank and heading the Autopilot will attempt to hold.

With the Flight Director on, only No.1 applies, as the Pitch, bank and heading AP channels are now only in damping mode. The Auto Pilot will not attempt to maintain Pitch, bank and heading on trim release. This is why trimming is not as required as often with FD mode.

Nate