I got a link to this from YT this morning:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ye3UY_B8ylA

It's very cool to see someone else build this.

g.

What is a hall sensor, where do you get them and how do you use it? thanks.

Jerry, see this thread:

http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/3225807/DIY_hall_sensor.html#Post3225807

g.

A hall sensor is a semiconductor that senses a magnetic field and returns a signal according to the intensity of it (more info on the hall effect can be found on wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hall_effect ).
There are several types of hall sensors. The most common, normally found in small brushless motors, is a hall switch: if the magnetic flux is above a set limit, the sensor will act like a closed switch. We don't normally need those.
Another sensor is a quadrature encoder, that will return either two signals based on the angle of the magnetic field or a single digital signal with a number representing the angle measured. they are expensive and require more processing logic than the average joystick can provide, and we don't use these either.
What we look for are ratiometric hall sensors, or linear hall sensors. These will have three pins, one connected to ground line (generally 0 volts), one connected to the +V line (in usb and gameport joysticks this is usually +5 volts) and a third pin where we pick up the signal. This signal will swing between slightly more than ground and slightly less than +V, the value depending on the intensity of the magnetic field going through the sensing area and the sensor specs. Generally no magnetic field will return a voltage exactly halfway between ground and +V. Magnetic fields have both an intensity and a direction, and the sensing area will read a magnetic field parallel to it as no magnetic field. This means that if we can create a magnetic field where the flux lines are fairly parallel, we can use the hall sensor to translate the angle between the magnetic field and the sensor into a voltage. this makes the hall sensor almost a drop in replacement for a potentiometer, at least on newer joysticks, with the caveat that you must take care of the ways the pins are connected to the power lines, or you will burn the sensor out.
Now, why did I say "almost"? Well, hall sensors are more accurate than potentiometers and the signal quality won't degrade with wear, but they don't respond exactly like potentiometers. their sensing "angle" is different, the response is not really linear (but we can ignore it if we keep to smallish angles), they can't swing through the whole range from ground to +V unless you add some complex conditioning circuitry, and they can only provide you a voltage and not a resistance. the last bit means that you can't use them in old gameport devices, because the gameport reads resistance rather than voltage (which is also why it loses calibration so easily and so often) but that is hardly a problem nowadays.

Thanks guys, very interesting, obviously my knowledge is very limited I didn't know all these gadgets were out there.

Hello Gene. Thank you so much for posting a DIY hall sensor build back in March. I want to try this on my replica Fw 190 throtle. The only part that I don't fully understand is when you attached the hall sensor to a pc board to hold it in place. Can you explain exactly what you did. I noticed there is another 3 pin that is different than the hall sensor. Is the 3 pin hall sensor soldered to the 3 pin connector? Where do you get your boards from? I don't know much about electronics so that's why these questions are so elementary. This will be my first time trying something like this.

By the way, how is the hall sensor holding up in your flight stick?

The material I used is a type of perf board called tri pad strip board. Take a look at this link:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Strip_board

These boards can be purchased at any Radio Shack or ordered online from places like SparkFun.

I soldered the hall effect sensor to the top pins of a tri pad with the legs going into the board from the non-copper side and then I soldered in the 3 pin connector to the bottom of the same try pad, but with the legs going in from the copper side - this makes soldering a bit tricky, but it's doable.

You should be able to tell the correct orientation by the pics I posted.

The hall sensor is operating just fine - I don't have much time these days to use it though.

g.

Thanks Gene for the reply. Just one more question if I may. Can I also purchase the 3 pin connector at Radio Shack as well?

That I don't know. I buy all parts like that from Jameco mostly. The prices are better than RS by FAR.

g.

Propman

Get one these 40 pin bar, so cut in 1, 2, 3....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/F01928-2-2PCs-40...=item415f579131

Female, to make plugs

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-2mm-40-Pin...=item3a659d3b1a

Search in Radio Shack for "Pin Header Strip".

Or use RC servo extension, matche with 40 pin (male) bar.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10X-150mm-Servo-...=item1e680fe95f

These CD-ROM audio cable is suitable too, and is best due insulation.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CD-Rom-DVD-audio...=item3f102b747d

Links to eBay to exemplify.

Sokol1

Thanks Gene and Sokol for helping me out. Now I know what to look for.

Hey Sokol the CD ROM cable is 4 pin, would that still work?

Yes, they have 4 pin connector, but 3 wires (+5V, Gnd, Signal), just change wire positions - is easy - and cut plastic case to 3 pins.
Advantage of this cable is come is ready, crimped, is more cheap and have better construction than RC servo extension.

One cable, cut i half hook two sensor (or pot).

Sample of CD-ROm cable use, in gameport CH Combatstick that I converted to USB + HALL sensor.



Alternative to use pin header is solder cable to HALL support PCB.



OT - contrary to popular belief, the CH internal parts wear. Well, after ~8 years of heavy use.




Sokol1

Hey Sokol thanks a lot for the pics. Two questions: using the alternative method of soldering to the PCB did you use the Red,White and Black wires? Would the Red wire be 5v,Black wire be Signal and White be Gnd? Thank you for taking the time to educate me.

Gene, could you tell me what are the item #s for the Du-Bro ball link and Du-Bro E/Z connector that you used? That seems to be the way to go. I would like to use these in my setup. Thank you in advance.

Print Picture.
Take picture to hobby shop.
Say, "Give me some of these threaded for 2-56"
Say, "Give me some 2-56" threaded rod, 12" "


Look, I don't mean to be a jerk, but you're asking hand-holding types of questions. Normally I don't mind those, but I'm sick. The kind of sick that makes you sit quietly in a nice chair for hours at a time. This doesn't help my already abrasive personality. If you want parts made or hand-holding, see me in March.

g.

I apologize Gene

Nah, it's not your fault. You caught me at a really bad spot and I shouldn't have responded in the manner in which I did. I apologize to YOU. My illness isn't your fault and I shouldn't be taking it out on you and others. It's tough sometimes.

The 2-56 threaded ball-links are the bits you're after. Any hobby shop worth walking into should have them.

One thing you might consider looking into is using Sullivan Gold-n-Rod for doing long pushrod runs. It's a two part low-friction pushrod system that can be bent around curves, etc. Saves you needing to use bell cranks if you want to do 90 degree direction changes, etc.

I'd love to see pics of your build!

Again, my apologies for biting your head off. It was completely uncalled for.

g.

Thank you Gene. I pray and hope that you get better. I will post pic's of my project as soon as I can figure out why Photobucket will not let me upload pictures.

You might want to try imagebin.com

g.

Or ImageShack.

In case are

Red = +5v
Black = Gnd
White = Signal

Remember that HALL sensor use diferent pinout than pot, the middle pin (SS495A, AUAT...) are for GND wire.

Sokol1

Yes, this is VERY important! You will destroy your sensor if you wire +5 to the sensor output or ground.

Leave the wiring on the PCB like I have it - make the adjustment in the cable you use. You can buy a "pigtail" from Servo City.com and use a tiny screwdriver to swap the wires around to meet the actual pinout of the part, keeping the colors as Sokol1 has shown.

g.

Well I finally was able to upload my pictures to photobucket. Needed to install latest java software. Thank you for making me aware of alternatives. Thanks Gene and Sokol for answering all my questions. It has given me a boost in confidence to tackle this project.

And now here are some pics of my first project. This is only a quick mock up of the port side instrument console of the Fw 190 simpit. I will test what you have taught me on this mock up first before I start building the real thing. I am in the process of getting all the parts to put together the Hall Sensor and I have also ordered a Leo Bodnar board. I am trying to decide whether to line up the hall sensor with the throtle lever or set it further away from the throtle. Both methods will employ Gene's type of control arm.

Happy Thanksgiving

Excellent work! That setup is practically begging for a flexible pushrod drive system.

g.