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#3408610 - 10/12/11 05:58 AM Another hall sensor build...
Gene Buckle Offline
Member

Registered: 01/13/04
Posts: 699
Loc: Graham, WA
I got a link to this from YT this morning:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ye3UY_B8ylA

It's very cool to see someone else build this. biggrin

g.
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#3408661 - 10/12/11 07:16 AM Re: Another hall sensor build... [Re: Gene Buckle]
jerryboy Offline
Member

Registered: 07/20/10
Posts: 108
What is a hall sensor, where do you get them and how do you use it? thanks.

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#3408926 - 10/12/11 01:36 PM Re: Another hall sensor build... [Re: Gene Buckle]
Gene Buckle Offline
Member

Registered: 01/13/04
Posts: 699
Loc: Graham, WA
_________________________
Proud owner of 80-0007
http://www.f15sim.com - The only one of its kind.
http://geneb.simpits.org - the Me-109F/X Project

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#3408958 - 10/12/11 02:03 PM Re: Another hall sensor build... [Re: Gene Buckle]
Brandano Offline
Member

Registered: 08/14/07
Posts: 187
Loc: Caput Mundi (well, it used to ...
A hall sensor is a semiconductor that senses a magnetic field and returns a signal according to the intensity of it (more info on the hall effect can be found on wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hall_effect ).
There are several types of hall sensors. The most common, normally found in small brushless motors, is a hall switch: if the magnetic flux is above a set limit, the sensor will act like a closed switch. We don't normally need those.
Another sensor is a quadrature encoder, that will return either two signals based on the angle of the magnetic field or a single digital signal with a number representing the angle measured. they are expensive and require more processing logic than the average joystick can provide, and we don't use these either.
What we look for are ratiometric hall sensors, or linear hall sensors. These will have three pins, one connected to ground line (generally 0 volts), one connected to the +V line (in usb and gameport joysticks this is usually +5 volts) and a third pin where we pick up the signal. This signal will swing between slightly more than ground and slightly less than +V, the value depending on the intensity of the magnetic field going through the sensing area and the sensor specs. Generally no magnetic field will return a voltage exactly halfway between ground and +V. Magnetic fields have both an intensity and a direction, and the sensing area will read a magnetic field parallel to it as no magnetic field. This means that if we can create a magnetic field where the flux lines are fairly parallel, we can use the hall sensor to translate the angle between the magnetic field and the sensor into a voltage. this makes the hall sensor almost a drop in replacement for a potentiometer, at least on newer joysticks, with the caveat that you must take care of the ways the pins are connected to the power lines, or you will burn the sensor out.
Now, why did I say "almost"? Well, hall sensors are more accurate than potentiometers and the signal quality won't degrade with wear, but they don't respond exactly like potentiometers. their sensing "angle" is different, the response is not really linear (but we can ignore it if we keep to smallish angles), they can't swing through the whole range from ground to +V unless you add some complex conditioning circuitry, and they can only provide you a voltage and not a resistance. the last bit means that you can't use them in old gameport devices, because the gameport reads resistance rather than voltage (which is also why it loses calibration so easily and so often) but that is hardly a problem nowadays.

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#3409235 - 10/13/11 01:30 AM Re: Another hall sensor build... [Re: Gene Buckle]
jerryboy Offline
Member

Registered: 07/20/10
Posts: 108
Thanks guys, very interesting, obviously my knowledge is very limited I didn't know all these gadgets were out there.

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#3434171 - 11/14/11 05:17 PM Re: Another hall sensor build... [Re: Gene Buckle]
propman Offline
Junior Member

Registered: 09/30/09
Posts: 24
Hello Gene. Thank you so much for posting a DIY hall sensor build back in March. I want to try this on my replica Fw 190 throtle. The only part that I don't fully understand is when you attached the hall sensor to a pc board to hold it in place. Can you explain exactly what you did. I noticed there is another 3 pin that is different than the hall sensor. Is the 3 pin hall sensor soldered to the 3 pin connector? Where do you get your boards from? I don't know much about electronics so that's why these questions are so elementary. This will be my first time trying something like this.

By the way, how is the hall sensor holding up in your flight stick? wave


Edited by propman (11/14/11 05:18 PM)

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#3434524 - 11/15/11 08:22 AM Re: Another hall sensor build... [Re: propman]
Gene Buckle Offline
Member

Registered: 01/13/04
Posts: 699
Loc: Graham, WA
The material I used is a type of perf board called tri pad strip board. Take a look at this link:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Strip_board

These boards can be purchased at any Radio Shack or ordered online from places like SparkFun.

I soldered the hall effect sensor to the top pins of a tri pad with the legs going into the board from the non-copper side and then I soldered in the 3 pin connector to the bottom of the same try pad, but with the legs going in from the copper side - this makes soldering a bit tricky, but it's doable.

You should be able to tell the correct orientation by the pics I posted.

The hall sensor is operating just fine - I don't have much time these days to use it though.

g.
_________________________
Proud owner of 80-0007
http://www.f15sim.com - The only one of its kind.
http://geneb.simpits.org - the Me-109F/X Project

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#3434762 - 11/15/11 02:21 PM Re: Another hall sensor build... [Re: Gene Buckle]
propman Offline
Junior Member

Registered: 09/30/09
Posts: 24
Thanks Gene for the reply. Just one more question if I may. Can I also purchase the 3 pin connector at Radio Shack as well?

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#3434964 - 11/15/11 08:20 PM Re: Another hall sensor build... [Re: Gene Buckle]
Gene Buckle Offline
Member

Registered: 01/13/04
Posts: 699
Loc: Graham, WA
That I don't know. I buy all parts like that from Jameco mostly. The prices are better than RS by FAR.

g.
_________________________
Proud owner of 80-0007
http://www.f15sim.com - The only one of its kind.
http://geneb.simpits.org - the Me-109F/X Project

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#3435151 - 11/16/11 05:36 AM Re: Another hall sensor build... [Re: Gene Buckle]
Sokol1 Offline
Member

Registered: 11/17/01
Posts: 755
Loc: Internet
Propman

Get one these 40 pin bar, so cut in 1, 2, 3....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/F01928-2-2PCs-40...=item415f579131

Female, to make plugs

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-2mm-40-Pin...=item3a659d3b1a

Search in Radio Shack for "Pin Header Strip".

Or use RC servo extension, matche with 40 pin (male) bar.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10X-150mm-Servo-...=item1e680fe95f

These CD-ROM audio cable is suitable too, and is best due insulation.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CD-Rom-DVD-audio...=item3f102b747d

Links to eBay to exemplify.

Sokol1


Edited by Sokol1 (11/16/11 05:37 AM)

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