Terrific idea!

And another mod - making the optional flight stick mount fit the Thrustmaster Warthog perfectly. All you need is a cutting disc and a metal file. You can spraypaint the cut edges afterwards if you want, but the silver line along the edge goes well with the overall look of the warthog stick.

Once you've mounted the stick, the only thing you have to look out for is not crushing your balls when sitting down and sliding the seat forward to reach the pedals.

See pics below.

Before (excuse the coffee spills, was previously using this as a cup holder):




After:








As before, exact measurements available on request.

Terrific modding mhe_at.

That looks fantastic!

Obuttos are in and shipping, today!

Hi mhe_at

I am about to unbox my Warthog and work on mounting it to my Obutto. Can you supply those screw measurements for the stick mount? What size drill bit did you use?


Also, how did you go about mounting the throttle quadrant on the side? I currently use heavy duty velcro. Seems like most Obutto/Warthog users have gone this route.

Thanks


Chaz

Just posted an update to my Obutto pit in the Pit Builders sections: http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/3389109/Update_on_Obutto_Pit.html#Post3389109

Chaz, as stated in the private message to you, the drill bits are 4.5mm in diameter and the holes are tapered on the underside of the plate. Hole positions are completely square with an edge length of 60.1mm center to center of the holes. The throttle is mounted using Tesa industrial strength velcro strips.

The drilling templates for both the throttle and the stick can be downloaded as a PDF from Thrustmaster's support page: click me!

In other news:
I added a touchscreen to my setup. To achieve this setup, I had to get the acrylic plate moving. This was obviously not possible with the plate velcro'd to the metallic baseplate. So i removed the tape and replaced it with rubber feet fixed to the baseplate. The acrylic plate just lies on top of it and since the friction between the rubber feet and the acrylic plate is really high, it does not move at all. I simply lift it little and can move it around, once I let go it stays in place. So I have the perfect alignment when set up for classic FPS or something and can reconfigure for flightsimming in a matter of minutes. When unused, the touchscreen stands on the floor at the wall on the left.

Pictures:







In progress: Fixing an Ergotron LX arm onto the vertical posts of the Obutto and mount the touchscreen on it, so I can just swivel it out of the way when not used. Will make switching between allround and sim use much less tedious. Might take a while though, I'm pretty busy at the moment.

mhe_at, I'm planning on doing a build like yours probably early next year. I was wondering how you got all the monitors setup. I know a GTX 590 can support 3 displays, do you run SLI with 2 cards to get the touchscreen display working?

As far as I know a build like this would be very hard to do using nVidia cards. nVidias in surround have the bad habit of disabling remaining displays that don't belong to the surround group - hence locking out the 4th screen. I run this thing off a single 6970 2GB modded with a more efficient cooler and it works pretty well. I don't know of anybody running a setup like mine on nVidia GPUs, so I slightly doubt it's possible. The only thing I could think of is making a 4-screen surround group and locking the 3D output of DCS A10C to the upper screens using a viewport in the graphics config.

Your mileage may vary, but from in experience Eyefinity is much more flexible than surround. My rig would possibly benefit greatly from a Crossfire setup though, but I'll wait until the southern islands chip series comes out before thinking about adding another GPU. The support for crossfire in windowed mode is another story though...