Hi all. I'm new here, but this place seemed as the right place to get some good feedback for my upcoming simpit-build :-)

First, some (ms-paint) drawings:



Topview. Stick and mousepad slides forward on rails, when I want to use the mouse for FPS games. It will be lock-able in both positions.
Board with pedals / rudder, also slides left / right, depending on if I want to race or fly. Also lockable, preferably with a foot-button or something like that.
Keyboard, will be on a drawer-like board. So that I can slide it under the wheel when I want to race.




Sideview. Same as above. I plan to use a normal office-chair as a seat. Maybe with some kind of lock to fasten it to the simpit.
I suppose that I can make some kind of lock, if I choose to use an office chair with arm-rests.

Maybe something like this: (sorry, its in danish)




I would appreciate any feedback on this. And also, which materials are most appropriate? PVC pipe? Wood?

Thanks, and sorry about my bad english.

-Jan

You can make a very simple "lock" for your chair using wooden panel or a a piece of carpet with a "slot" cut in it. You roll over it with two wheels and it will keep you in place enough to use the pedals.

Definitely look at Dudleys multi pit in this forum section for inspiration and ideas. He's done an amazing job of building a dual purpose simpit.

Thanks guys.
Another reason to why I want a lock for the office chair, is to avoid that it swivels when I use rudder or pedals.
Otherwise it would be fine to use the carpet mod.

I will check out dudleys multi pit when I figure out how to search the forums.

Btw I'm currently drawing my plan in 3d, and I will post it when it's ready.

Thanks for the feedback!!! :-D

I checked out dudleys pit, very nice indeed.
It's just that I would want to be able to use my keyboard and mouse freely, for fps's and general computer use. So I think that I will go with the side mounted stick.

Jangeisler, welcome to the club! I like where you are going with your drawings. I really like your concept for moving the pedals back and forth for use. Your idea is much simpler... and better.. than the ideas I tried that didn't work. I ran into a problem with the fact that my rudder pedals are so wide that I had issues because it made the pit too wide. As long as you have the space it should work perfectly.

I have become fond of using latches that are sprung load for simple yet effective methods of locking things in place. Something that might work for you is a latch that snaps into place in one of two holes in the back of the board your pedals are mounted on. You could attach a cable to it that you can while seated in the pit, then just slide the pedals this way or that.



You can see the type of latch I am talking about in my recent post here on the seat in my pit. It is the silver part towards the bottom of the seat. Most hardware stores have them or something similar.



Hope that helps. I can't wait to see how the build goes. Please keep us updated!

Dud
Dudley simpit update

Hi dud.
What a great idea with the latches.
I will see if my local hardware store have them.
IMO in your illustration, it would be nicer to have the latch underneath the pedals, the holes in the board where the pedals are mounted on, and the wiring going under the pit. But thanks a lot :-)
Now I just need to find some decent drawer-like mounts for my keyboard.
I suppose I can use a latch for the stick/mouse board also

P.s what are the latches intended for originally? I live in denmark and I don't think that they're called latches here...

Nice design!

Does your joystick have a pretty strong centering mechanism (ie. strong springs)? With that stick mounted on a tilted forward angle, that could become an issue.

Thank you sir :-)
The hotas is a logitech G940 with ffb, and the wheel is a g27, so there wont be a problem with centering spring i guess

**

Heres some 3d plans of my upcoming build.

I still need to draw a lot. The pedals-board will be angled, it's not in the plans now.

I found a place where I can order some 50mm PVC pipe here in Denmark.
And I plan on using plywood boards to mount the things on to.

Would a frame of PVC pipes be strong enough to support:

24" monitor
32" monitor
Complete HOTAS with rudderpedals
Wheel with pedals
Keyboard and mouse
Computer
?

I'll track down the actual name for them when I stop by the hardware store this week.

Does anyone have an idea about how to "lock" the office chair to the simpit?
Velcro om arm-rest bars?
Some kind of latch-lock?

Hej Jan

Your pedal arrangement certainly looks promising! Nice idea.

As for the chair locks, what about something like the spring loaded garden tool holders you see in hardware stores? They would probably need to be beefed up some, in order to provide enough locking force though. Maybe you could bend some yourself, using 4-5mm round steel?
Anyway, I think you're original idea is hard to beat with regards to securing the chair properly, but the spring holders would be more "userfriendly" I guess.

Hey, just had another idea!
Go have a look at the closing/locking mechanism in a car door. It does almost exactly what you want, although it closes around a smaller diameter, but maybe that can be adjusted. And the parts can most likely be found pretty cheap in you're local junkyard.

Thanks for the great feedback. I will experiment with your ideas. The major concern right now is the materials to use for the build. I think that PVC pipe will look better and simpler for the overall build, with some plywood boards to mount the hardware onto. But would PVC pipes be sturdy enough?

Hi,

My suggestion (for what it's forth) is to slide 3/4 inch plastic conduit inside 1 inch conduit. The fit is just a slip fit. You'll be amazed at how sturdy it is. I used a short length for the handle of my collective and, even pulling up hard against the end stop, it doesn't bend or kink.

another advantage is that you can use the 1 inch fittings like bends, and it comes in black as standard.

Hope this helps,

Andy

Great idea Andy, thanks.
I'm afraid that by doing that, I would double the amount of pipe used for the build, but it might be the only solution if the "single layer" of pipe should prove not to be sturdy enough

By the way...
If I had the stick positioned in the middle, the stick/mouse board wouldn't have to be able to move.

So a question to you guys who use a centered stick: is this just as comfortable? Or maybe even more?
Or do you center the stick just to make it more "real" compared to the type of aircraft youre flying?

-I'm not that concerned about making my simpit "real", it's more important to me that it's comfortable to use, and that the different peripherals don't interfere with each other or block my view.

I centered my stick mainly because I switched to A10, but I must say I find it to be more comfortable than a sidestick. And yes, it does give more room for a mouse area, and it gives you the opportunity to squeeze in a stickshift too then, if you're into racing..
Btw, do you plan to play shooters and the like on your setup?
I find it to be a pain if I have to use the mouse for any extended period on my setup, and my mousepad looks to be in a similar low position. Cockpit-clicking and surfing is just fine.

Yes, I intend to play all sorts og games. Maybe I will play with the position of the mousepad to make it comfy.
I would like to be able to move the seat forward so that my wife can use the wheel and pedals too, so a centered stick would mean another problem to solve :-)

I seem to recall seeing a pic of someone's pit, where they had a board with two holes in it, sized to accept 2 of the casters from the typical 5 caster office chair base. They just rolled their chair over and dropped the front two casters into those holes. The board was attched to the rest of their "pit" frame somehow. Use a thick enough board, and even enthusiastic operation of the pedals shouldn't lift you out of the holes.

That is going to depend on:

What schedule (thickness) of pipe is used. (Higher schedule numbers are thicker, and therefor stiffer)
The number and placement of frame connection points, etc.

Keep in mind that triangles are structurally stronger than rectangles.

Thanks you all :-)

Regarding the idea with a board with holes in it for the 2 front wheels, it might be a problem, if the solution doesn't prevent the office chair from swivelling.

I'm planning to use 50mm pipe, (2"). I don't know how thick they are yet, but I've sent an email request to the shop that sell them.

About the structural strength of triangles, thanks for that. I will see what they've got of fittings and bends, and see if I can include as many triangles as possible in the frame :-)

I think that when I'm done drawing the 3d plan, I'll post it here, and maybe alter it afterwards if I (we) find any problems with it, before I order materials and start the build.

Regarding the center mounted stick, I think that I've found another issue.
In my plan, the keyboard slides out from underneath the steering wheel.

I'm not sure, that there's room for the wheel, keyboard and the stick above my lap.

Here, I've added a 15 cm block underneath the mousepad. Not sure if it will interfere with the handling of the joystick. I guess i could smooth the edge near the joystick a bit. Or maybe it would be even better, if I turned the block 45' out. But that would make it take more space.. decisions decisions.....

Also, I've added the keyboard, so that you can see what I mean with the drawer like pull-out.

I added where the screen approx should be.

This pit reminds me of something I had planned for a replacement desk/simpit, specifically those two types of pedals on a sliding platform to easily convert to whichever set is more suitable.

In fact, the only big difference I can think of is that your wheel is on a fixed mount and not a swing-down arm, while in my design, the keyboard is on a fixed mount and the wheel is mounted to some swing arms that hold the wheel above the monitor when not in use.

I'd certainly like to see the finished product in action. (That mouse placement does have me concerned, though...)

I agree about the mouse placement.

Im trying to figure out what to do with it....

I think I might have figured out how to place the mouse.

Heres yet another couple of pics... :-/ please let me know if I post too much, or post too many pictures here.

Notice that the mouse is higher now that originally, and the mouse / stick slides forward 25cm / 10".

Got a bit further with the drawing.



Here you can see an overview.



Throttle, with dudleys idea for a lock. :-) Keyboard on drawer-thingies.



Throttles, now angled, on rails.



Dudleys locking mechanism again :-) A wire going to a handle near the seat will be appropriate (dudleys idea again)



..At last, getting it all sorted out. Now i just need to set it up temporarily on chairs etc, to see if all the distances and heights are okay. (and figure out what to do with the chair-lock)

Jangeisler, you could mount the pedals above and behind the rudders and have more of a racing posture? You already have to move the seat forward a bit, when reaching for the wheel, right?

Hi. Great idea, thanks. :-)
In the plan, I can actually reach both the hotas and the wheel from the same relaxed position.
But now you mention it, it could be nice with a laid back racing position.
I will consider it, and see if it would be too complicated to build.

The original plan was to keep it as simple as possible, and to make it possible and comfortable to reach ALL the controls from the same position.

I think that I need to set everything up temporarily, setting the right distances and heights, even if that means that I have to lay the controls on stacked books etc.

If the racing position is awkward, I will try to plan something like the idea you mentioned

I just drew myself in roughly, and it seems to be okay so far. :-)

The chair dimensions arent very accurate I noticed, but thats because i didnt buy a chair yet. Ive measured up everything else before drawing. :-)

Heh, I can't believe I didn't think of that earlier...

...oh wait, I might have, but ruled it out because my Cougar has a force-sensing mod installed, and those work best when the stick is mounted as securely as possible. I wonder how that's going to work if it's on a sliding platform.

One of my ideas to get around this with a fixed stick would actually require me to buy a new keyboard...a split one. Then place each half somewhere near the stick and throttle in a comfortable position. The middle platform that would normally hold the keyboard instead becomes home to the mouse and my 3Dconnexion SpacePilot. Perhaps my MS SWFFB2 too, for the prop sims (but it won't always be mounted there, just brought out when needed like it currently is).

Only thing is, I'm kind of fond of the keyboards I already have now, and a split mechanical keyboard would be even more expensive than usual.

Thanks for the answer. The sliding system will be quite secure. The "rails", upper and lower rail, are going to be a quite tight fit, and the platform will lock in both position, so in both positions it should be as if the platform was securely mounted in place.

That's the idea at least :-)

so far so good.... I still need to draw a board for the computer to be on, and add some pipes to strenghten the frame.

Need help guys... I can't seem to find suitable "interlockable" rails for the pedals and joystick boards. (meaning that the upper and lower rails won't go apart)
I've thought of using sliders fo drawers but that doesn't seem sturdy enough in extended position.

Does anyone know where to get rails like that? Or maybe an everyday product to take the rails from?

You can get heavy duty drawer slides for drawers that need to take a lot of weight.

I used the slides from a filing cabinet drawer for the adjustment on my rudder pedals.

Cheers,

Andy

Thanks for the tip, Andy :-)

...are you using some kind of small wheels underneath your rudder pedals?

Jangeisler,
I used 'full extension' heavy duty drawer glides for my wheel to slide in my pit. They are strong enough to support the weight of the wheel, plus the much heavier stress of me yanking on the thing when I am racing... especially when things aren't going my way! You can also look for server racking gear. It is generally heavy duty stuff.

I had promised a while back some info on the sprung load latches I was using... well, I finally remembered to swing by the hardware store and snap a pic for you.


I have seen them called chain bolts and spring bolts. Just make sure it has a spring that keeps it in the closed position unless you pull the chain. I replace the chain with braided metal cable.

In reference to your question about using PVC for your framework. I just recently finished building a setup for a friend of mine based on some plans he found on the internet.


I think it came out as good as it could, but we both agree it is a bit... wiggly... especially when doing agressive flying. He doesn't have a wheel set up, but I don't think I would relish bolting a wheel on to it as well. The PVC just flexes too much and doesn't have enough mass to it to make it feel solid. We have discussed filling the piping with sand or expanding foam insulation, but we're not sure it would help much. We may end up using it as a framework to start attaching an MDF skin to, but if we were starting from scratch, we would skip the PVC all together.

By the way, he is using Velcro to strap the chair to the rig whenever he flys. It keeps him from sliding away from the controls, but he forgot to unstrap himself once and almost broke one of the supports when he went to slide away and stand up. The Velcro holds nice and tight though!

Hope all this helps!
Dud

Hmmm... Which parts are wiggling, and what schedule pipe was used?

As for stiffening it up... Depending on where the wiggling is ocurring, some strategically placed additions of pipe might do the trick. For instance, if the side platforms tend to move downward at all on the front end (closest to the monitor), tee-ing in another pipe from the front edge down to the base would probably resolve that. Especially if it is a higher schedule pipe.

I'm guessing the joystick platform is the biggest problem though. A snuggly fitting wooden dowel can stiffen up a longer pipe that is flexing more than you like. Another way to go is to fill the pipe(s) with epoxy. Once that stuff cures, the filled pipes will be like rocks (stiffness wise).

Dud, thanks for the info!! :-D

I'm not quite done yet, but I've added 1" pvc pipe to my plan, here it is in plane mode:



and in race mode:



..I'm currently working on a smart way to set up the pvc pipes to support the keyboard, wheel and screen.

I might need to make the whole thing wider, depending on the office chair I'm getting.

...does this PVC setup look wiggly?

1 " PVC pipe comes in more than one thickness (schedule). The heavier schedule stuff will cost more, but flex less. Your side platforms look good as far as up and down flex/sag, but I'd be concerned about the platforms flexing forward and backward as you push and pull on the controls. I think I mentioned triangles being structurally stronger than rectangles earlier in the thread, and this is where that comes in. Of course, there is more than one way to accomplish that.

Adding a diagonal pipe from bottom-rear, to the top-front of each of those side assemblies could help... however, for the throttle platform that would mean extra width since you need to have room for your computer case to slide in.

Another way would be to use cables and turnbuckles (for tensioning adjustments). Use some eyebolts through the PVC pipes for attachment points. Cable the bottom-rear to the top-front. To really cover the bases, cable the bottom-front to the top-rear, as well. Benefits of that approach are that you can route the cable along the outside or inside plane of the side assemblies, leaving that space open for your computer case witout adding significant width to the assemblies. The downside is that it doesn't look quite as spiffy (assuming that you are not covering it up with side panels).

I agree with CyBerkut that you are going to need some support for the sides as there will be some wobble in it (technical term, just like wiggly) because of the height of the side consoles. Another challenge you are going to face is getting everything square during assembly. We used a miter chop saw to cut the PVC on our build, and we still fought with getting everything seated perfectly where it all came out square and sat level on the floor. Don't think I'm trying to talk you out of using the PVC, just sharing some insight into challenges we had.

Something that popped into my disturbed brain last night (yes, scary, I know). Instead of 1" PVC (we used 1" schedule 40 by the way which is the thickest you will find at most DIY or home improvement stores), what if you built it using 2" or 3" drain/sewer pipe? It is infinately stronger and sturdier stuff. I used it to center mount my joystick in my pit and it is rock solid. I have seen other use it at very long lengths and they even fill it with concrete for stability.

Take a look at what Paradaz just posted here. Just a thought...

Dud

Thanks for the great feedback guys. :-)

Regarding the triangles, the problem is, that I can't find fittings other than 45', 90', and T's for 1" pvc here in Denmark, and I don't think that they have them for 2" PVC either, which makes it a bit troublesome to include some strong triangles.

A problem with 2" or 3" PVC is, that some of the fittings + pipe lengths in my plan are quite short, and will probably be nearly impossible to make with larger pipes, or will look clunky.. (if thats a word) :-P

I will withdraw and rethink the whole thing.

Another idea in this thread, was to place the racing pedals above the rudder pedals, so that I would have a more laid-back racing posture compared to my flying posture.

I dont know if it would be easier to make it all in wood..... The problem is, that my wife likes the idea of using pvc. Easier to clean, and nicer to look at, she says.


*****

Maybe the setup could look kinda like this?




The major problem with my upcoming pit, is that I want to be able to race, fly, and play fps on the pit.. And of course use the computer for normal stuff...

I've thought about making THIS

But then I would have to make 2 of them, one "original", and one modded for a wheel, and have them standing in a corner in my house when not in use...

If you can't find "wye" fittings of a suitable type in the sizes you need, then just give serious consideration to putting the cable braces in. They'd still be easy for the spousal unit to keep tidy, and doesn't have to look bad, either.

Would the integration of cable braces mean that I could stick to my current plan by just strengthening the pit?

I love your idea of mounting the car pedals above the rudder pedals... that is inspired! I am going to look at that for my pit!

The DIY plans you are looking at, in particular #321, is the exact plan that we used to build my buddies pit. Small world huh?

The cable braces might put to much stress on the PVC, but I'm not sure on that because I never tried it. You would be able to strengthen it by putting a couple of wood (MDF) plates on it to give it lateral support (my vote would be on the back end of each side, and maybe on the bottom too. The MDF will also help give it some 'ballast' to make it less wiggly.

The best thing with the PVC idea is that if you try it and it doesn't work out, you aren't in to it for a bunch of money on materials. I think for all of the PVC pipe, fittings, and paint, my friend spent $40.00 and we built it in an evening!

Dud

I spoke with my wife, and she said that wood was okay, as long as I painted it :-D

I'm going to rethink the whole thing and then post the NEW plan here.

I thought of something like the last drawing I posted, with the mouse somewhere comfortable, and the keyboard on drawer sliders.
- that would eliminate the need for rails / sliders for the joystick and pedals.

The simpler the better, right? :-)

Since you are leaning more towards wood now.... I'll share my experience. I build a multi-purpose "pit". I previously had it setup for a steering wheel too, but changed it around some recently and haven't added the mount again.

It works great for FPS's and sims. Here is the link: http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=78096

I kept it simple and used 2x4 lumber and plywood. This can all be done with a hand saw and a drill (or hammer/nails, but I don't recommend that). To put the curves in you'll need a jig saw....

Thanks for the hint, Walker. :-)

Nice idea with the folding wings in your pit :-) And I envy you for the triple monitors...

Two quick ones:

1. I intend to secure the stick with screws. Is it comfy to have the mouse on the right side of the stick for fps etc?

2. When you had a wheel in your pit, did you have racing pedals also? I'm not quite sure how and where to put my 2 sets of pedals..

I think that I've come up with an okay plan. I think that if I go with this build, I will make a few of the joints detachable, so that I can move the thing around when needed.









Again, I would appreciate any feedback on this, so that I can fix potential flaws before I start building.

Now, the only moveable part is the keyboard drawer.

Hmmm, never thought of arranging the pedals that way. But what really concerns me is the possibility of the top set of car pedals getting in the way of the bottom set of rudder pedals, and how easily your chair will adapt to both postures.

I've tested the pedal positions, by setting up my pedals as on the drawing. I have no problem operating the bottom pedals, and by tilting the office chair backwards, the top pedals should be comfy. At least they're okay without tilting.

If you still wanted to explore making the PVC plans work... Yes, cross bracing cables should allow that to work. You could always put the anchoring eyebolts through the PVC fittings where the corners are joined. The fittings are made of nice thick PVC and are resistant to cracking/breaking.

The wood plans look pretty good, too. I shared NamelessPFG's concern about the utility of the two fixed pedal positions. If your chair will adapt well enough, then I guess you're good to go.

Why not swing one set of pedals up under the keyboard tray when not being used ?

I'm sure it could be done with pulleys and cord/cable. If you wanted to impress you could always fit a motor ....

Hope this helps,



Andy

Thanks for the feedback and idea.

Regarding the pedals / rudder posistion, I've actually set them up, and tested them to see if theres any problems using them while theyre placed exactly by the measurements on the drawing. With a chair, that doesn't even tilt, I can operate both sets of pedals without problems. So I think that it will be even better when I get an office chair that tilts.

I would think about adding some verticle supports between the right platform under your mouse and stick and the platform your PC sits on. There will be a lot of pressure on that during flight and over time it may work itself loose.

Really good overall concept! I'm still intrigued by the pedals deployment.. I am playing with an offshoot simliar to what Andy recommended for my pit.

Can't wait to see it come to life.

Dud

Now I'm almost ready to order materials and start the build

I've discarded the 1st version I drew (PVC pipe pit). And I've actually made yet another plan, with the joystick placed much closer to the chair, so that it doesnt have to be angled, and the mouse is more reachable. (simpit v3 :-D )
Additionally, the keyboard now lays freely on the tabletop, which means no need for sliders etc. There's room for the keyboard under the steering wheel.

Here's the 2 plans, now I just need to decide which to go with, and maybe tweak it a bit.

Sorry for the delayed response!

1. I don't mind having the mouse to the right; however, I would prefer to have it elevated higher, like in your v3. The angle is a little uncomfortable on the wrist after a while.
2. I had to swap pedals out by hand, and I drilled a hole through them and secured them with a wood screw. Having them both setup would be much much better.

As far as the pedal position, seeing the above post by Andy gave me an idea. Instead of having the top pedals "tilt" up, you could have them mounted on a keyboard sliding tray and slide them up at an angle to get them out of the way. They would have to be latched in the upped position, which could be accomplished with a string and spring loaded pin as discussed earlier.

Also, the computer case could be mounted behind the monitors, above the pedals. This makes it up a little higher and easier to access if you need to unhook cables etc, as opposed to sitting on the ground (also keeps it up out of dust that collects on the floor).

Thanks Andy.
I think that the mouse position will be okay now that I've moved the joystick down and inwards.

I'm not sure about placing the upper pedals on a sliding tray. I think that it would slide out too fast when pulling the latch. And I think that it would be problematic to fiddle with the latch-system while pushing up the pedals with my feet.

Anyways, the position of the Pedals in my drawing tested, and is actually pretty comfy. When using the bottom pedals, the upper pedals don't get in the way.

OMG... Can't believe that I didn't found this earlier.

The AKERS BARNES cockpit.. Apparently, it seems that it fullfills all my needs. As cheap as possible, and very very customizable.

If I were to build the ABC, and make the joystick detachable, so that I could put my mouse where the joystick usually are, that would make it perfect for FPS.

And maybe mount the keyboard on a board with velcro, so that i can attach it on the edges on each sides of the seat. When not in primarily use, it could be attached over the wheel.

And maybe mount the pedals on a board with furniture-wheels, with some kind of a spring loaded latch to lock it in each position...

Does anyone have any experience with the ABC? It seems a bit low, and the seat seems a bit inclined, is it uncomfy?

Here's a rough idea (borrowed the original ABC 3d drawing from 3d warehouse on the net):

Hi guys.
I'm going with the Akers barnes.
I'm not posting in this thread again, but I will probably make a new thread or post in "show off your pit" when my pit is done (ish)
If anyone can use the ideas in this thread, your welcome :-)

The piece of wood that goes behind the back piece, make it long from front to back. This way you can find a more comfortable angle and have a few times to cut it before painting it. Also. The holes for the dowels make a few up and down from where it says to in the directions. I tried the 2 inch foam and it was kind of better than the 4". Reason being is the bulk of it. to hide wires i built a box under where the monitor goes. That became the area everything got plugged in or routed to.

Thanks Chappy I:-)
That's actually the kind of info I had a hard time finding.
So, I start out making the support for the back piece longer, so that the seat isn't too laid back initially.
And make more holes for the rod to try out a couple of positions.
:-) thanks, I'll have that in mind.

Regarding the cable box, it's a great idea and I intend to close the sides of the simpit so that I can hide the cables and wires for switches etc that I intend to mount on the sides

So, now I've build my Akers-Barnes. Still need some stuff though. Seat, switches, minor adjustements etc. But heres some pics :-D



The pedals-arragement slides back and forth on wheels, and are lock-able.




G27 and G940. Still only a 24" screen though




Side view

The default seat angle of the ABC was designed to try and match that of the F-16 (though we only did it by eye; didn't have any actual specs for the F-16's seat. As Chappy said, the seat height and angle can be tweaked by putting in alternate holes for the seat-support, and having some different-depth back-support pieces. I've actually done away with my seat base entirely, and instead use a stack of foam blocks down to the floor - more comfy :-).

The cockpit was deliberately designed low, so as to be more compact and portable - it had to fit in a two-seat MG, remember! Quite a few builders have made taller versions, which are easier to get in and out of.

I've recently enhanced my ABC (still the original one Peter Akers and I first built), to support a triplehead monitor setup. Easy to do - only need to change three pieces; the console top, the front cross-support, and the console face. A number of keen builders had already beaten me to that customisation!

I wonder how many ABC pits have been built now? I am guessing at least several hundred, based on the feedback and requests I have seen over the years.

Regards
Michael Barnes

You could have sold the flat-pack to Ikea and reached many more. You guys changed quite a few game rooms!

AMEN!

Welcome to SimHQ Loophole!

That 3D model of the ABC looks suspiciously similar to the one I drew up in SketchUp.

Congrats on the build, mate! It's looking really good! Though I haven't had the time or resources to work on mine lately, I'm still loving it. If you feel like going center-stick, check out my build thread on here for an idea on how to do it that still keeps in concert with the feel of the ABC.

I wonder how "comfy" that seat is though?

Thanks for the replies, and big kudos to Loophole, thanks for the design.
Yes, i found the sketchup model on 3dmodels.com or something like that, and added my gear. :-)

The seat isnt very comfy yet, but it will be once i make the foam seat. :-)
The pit still needs some work though, although i dont plan to make a dedicated pit with a million switches (yet)

Some time since I've updated this thread..
I haven't progressed with my pit since last time, but I intend to add some buttons to my simpit the easy way. :-)

I've found this neat application called HID macros, where you can seperate two USB keyboards and use keyboard #2 for FSX assignments.
(for later on, this application also makes it possible to use multiple keyboards, such as an additional overhead button panel etc.)

Also, I've found some ideas for modifying a keyboard for simming, such as:



I'm planning on using nearly every available (generally usable) commands in FSX, which shouldn't be a problem, since a keyboard has 105 keys. :-)

If your going to use that kind of keyboard mod, then I would recommend using it in conjunction with HIDMacros which can be found here:
http://www.hidmacros.eu/download.php

In short, if I read this correctly, it will allow you to use multiple keyboards, and through it's software, have each 's' on each keyboard be recognized as independent key presses, where as windows by default see's all keyboards connected to the pc as the same keyboard, so that an 's' on one keyboard is the same as the 's' on every other keyboard.

Yes, exactly, Lupus :-)
Hid macros supports multiple keyboard ID's and it's actually capable of mapping fsx commands directly to a button press.