Questions regarding making a switch panel for IL-2 Sturmovik

I'm looking to create a switch panel to be used with IL-2. I plan on using Leo Bodnar's BU0386x hooked up with a couple of different types of switches. I have not made anything like this before and I would like to see if I could get some assistance with what to buy beforehand. Based on what I can best understand the following types of switches are typically used:

Toggle Switches, Potentiometers, Rotary Encoders, Dual Concentric Rotary Encoders.

With above there’s also some variations of them that I'm going need help in getting my head clear with.......so please have patience


Question #1)

On toggle switches, I think I get the basics with the various types of switches, but I'm having a hard time getting my head around which type of toggle switches are best suited with what I would like to get as far as functionality.

In IL-2 many commands use the same keyboard key press for an action (ON/OFF or UP/DOWN for example). A toggle switch can be used with these, but rather then an actual ON/OFF electrically in the circuit, its wired to basically use the same keyboard command. An example:

Gear UP = G
Gear DOWN = G

When looking at this toggle switch on the panel, if I had selected UP the toggle position would be up and had I selected DOWN the toggle position would be down.

OK, which type of toggle switch should be used for this and how should it be wired? I'm thinking center pole ground and the two outer poles combined to one before plugging into the BU386x. But please before answering see later about using LED's.

Question #2)

Some other functions needing keyboard assignments in IL-2 are not really similar to ON/OFF or UP/DOWN, but instead have multiple key commands. For example crew positions on bombers:

Jump to Cockpit #1 = user defined (Pilot)
Jump to Cockpit #2 = user defined
Jump to Cockpit #3 = user defined
Jump to Cockpit #4 = user defined
Jump to Cockpit #5 = user defined
Jump to Cockpit #6 = user defined
Jump to Cockpit #7 = user defined
Jump to Cockpit #8 = user defined
Jump to Cockpit #9 = user defined
Jump to Cockpit #10 = user defined

Here I think a Rotary Encoder with a center momentary push button feature would be used. Center momentary push button would be for “ Jump to Cockpit #1”. But because this has multiple button assignments whats listed on Leo's site would not work for this, correct? If I'm correct, what encoder would work with this and how would this be wired?

Question #3)

Yet another function in IL-2 that I think would use a rotary encoder, this time navigation. Example

Next Beacon = user defined

Prev Beacon = user defined

Here I think the CTS288 listed on Leo's site would be used as it looks to me like it would work like continuous button presses, but I need some help. By turning the rotary encoder clockwise I can get the action of “Next Beacon”, but I do not think I can hook up this encoder to function so that by turning counter clockwise, I can get the action of “Prev Beacon” because that’s a separate button press, correct?

If I'm correct with above this tells me that “Next Beacon” & “Prev Beacon” need two separate Rotary Encoders OR I should use the Duel Concentric Rotary Encoder for both of these, correct?

But there's more, what about the detents. How does this work, is that each detent is the next registered signal (key press) being sent? Does the Rotary Encoder have a stop where you need to turn the other way, or does it keep going round and round?

Question #4)

Time compression commands and using a Rotary Encoder. In IL-2 time compressions is as follows

Accelerate Time x2/x4/x8 = ]
Normal Time = '
Decelerate Time x2/x4/ = [

Here again I think a Rotary Encoder should be used, and again use the Dual Concentric Rotary Encoder. One would be “Accelerate Time” and the other “Decelerate Time” and center push button feature would be “Normal Time”, correct?

More on this, this time the detents and no physical stop. Given I would be turning one half of the Duel Rotary Encoder to “Accelerate Time” once it hits x8 in the game continuous turning does not do anything. To decrease I would turn the other half Duel Rotary Encoder to “Decelerate Time”. After center pushing for “Normal Time” at some point and then later going back to “Accelerate Time” by turning the knob, the process starts over again because there's no physical stop in the encoder, correct?

Question #5)

When are potentiometers used for keyboard functions that are not something like trim wheels, pedals etc..? A potentiometer would not really be used for what I described above, correct? Reason I ask is that in the latest patch for IL-2 they have added the ability of a user assigning an axis to “Zoom” I was thinking of using this with a dial rather then a slide. The ETI MW22B seems like this would be good for this, Yes/No?

Question #6)

LED lighting. Leo's card plugs in to the PC via the USB port and has power limitations as such. You can use LED's with the card but I think I would like to use more then what should be used with the card. So, can I use the action of the toggle switches and the other switches tied to the switch yet easily wire in and use seperate power source? Based on on what I saw online, the solution would be was to use the DPDT toggle switches for the switching part of the LED circuit yet have a separate power source for the power side of the LED circuit, Yes/No?. If some one knows more details on this, can they help explain in detail. Also if it is possible, please post up a diagram or a link to a diagram of how this would be wired?

Last Questions #7-8)

I have seen a couple of threads here and elsewhere on line showing images of the toggle switches being used. Most of what I saw where using tiny or otherwise smallish switches. I'm thinking that I would like to use more normal size switches. Is there an issues with using a larger switch, voltage amps etc.....?

Pricing on switches, it looks like some switches found on eBay are coming direct from China, they seem to be very low cost, in some instances prices seem to be stupid cheap in comparison to well known online suppliers. Given the panel will be inside and not used daily like with a machine in a business environment, should I be sticking with the stuff found on well known suppliers websites or arew the cheap Chian made switches OK to use given the function?

Thanks for reading, if you have time and experience I would be grateful for input.

Questions regarding making a switch panel for IL-2 Sturmovik

I'm looking to create a switch panel to be used with IL-2. I plan on using Leo Bodnar's BU0386x hooked up with a couple of different types of switches. I have not made anything like this before and I would like to see if I could get some assistance with what to buy beforehand. Based on what I can best understand the following types of switches are typically used:

Toggle Switches, Potentiometers, Rotary Encoders, Dual Concentric Rotary Encoders.

With above there’s also some variations of them that I'm going need help in getting my head clear with.......so please have patience


Question #1)

On toggle switches, I think I get the basics with the various types of switches, but I'm having a hard time getting my head around which type of toggle switches are best suited with what I would like to get as far as functionality.

In IL-2 many commands use the same keyboard key press for an action (ON/OFF or UP/DOWN for example). A toggle switch can be used with these, but rather then an actual ON/OFF electrically in the circuit, its wired to basically use the same keyboard command. An example:

Gear UP = G
Gear DOWN = G

When looking at this toggle switch on the panel, if I had selected UP the toggle position would be up and had I selected DOWN the toggle position would be down.

OK, which type of toggle switch should be used for this and how should it be wired? I'm thinking center pole ground and the two outer poles combined to one before plugging into the BU386x. But please before answering see later about using LED's.

You can use a simple program to translate a button on/off into a keyboard command that the game will recognize. I use SVMapper because it is extremely simple and I only need to use it with two BU0836X controlelr boards (it can work with a max of 2 controllers/joystick/input devices, etc). As far as toggle switches; you would only need a simple on/off toggle as the software (in this case SVMapper) allows you to program signal on for G (toggle up) and signal off for G again (toggle down)

Question #2)

Some other functions needing keyboard assignments in IL-2 are not really similar to ON/OFF or UP/DOWN, but instead have multiple key commands. For example crew positions on bombers:

Jump to Cockpit #1 = user defined (Pilot)
Jump to Cockpit #2 = user defined
Jump to Cockpit #3 = user defined
Jump to Cockpit #4 = user defined
Jump to Cockpit #5 = user defined
Jump to Cockpit #6 = user defined
Jump to Cockpit #7 = user defined
Jump to Cockpit #8 = user defined
Jump to Cockpit #9 = user defined
Jump to Cockpit #10 = user defined

Here I think a Rotary Encoder with a center momentary push button feature would be used. Center momentary push button would be for “ Jump to Cockpit #1”. But because this has multiple button assignments whats listed on Leo's site would not work for this, correct? If I'm correct, what encoder would work with this and how would this be wired?

Again you can use software to send an on/off signal as the encoder crosses each position, you would just appear to be jumping in and out of each. Or you can activate the rotery switch position with the momentary center switch as you have outlined.

Question #3)

Yet another function in IL-2 that I think would use a rotary encoder, this time navigation. Example

Next Beacon = user defined

Prev Beacon = user defined

Here I think the CTS288 listed on Leo's site would be used as it looks to me like it would work like continuous button presses, but I need some help. By turning the rotary encoder clockwise I can get the action of “Next Beacon”, but I do not think I can hook up this encoder to function so that by turning counter clockwise, I can get the action of “Prev Beacon” because that’s a separate button press, correct?

If I'm correct with above this tells me that “Next Beacon” & “Prev Beacon” need two separate Rotary Encoders OR I should use the Duel Concentric Rotary Encoder for both of these, correct?

But there's more, what about the detents. How does this work, is that each detent is the next registered signal (key press) being sent? Does the Rotary Encoder have a stop where you need to turn the other way, or does it keep going round and round?

same as above, but my encoders do not have a stop, they continue around. you can get one with a stop (I think I have one in a drawer someplace) but I am not sure.

Question #4)

Time compression commands and using a Rotary Encoder. In IL-2 time compressions is as follows

Accelerate Time x2/x4/x8 = ]
Normal Time = '
Decelerate Time x2/x4/ = [

Here again I think a Rotary Encoder should be used, and again use the Dual Concentric Rotary Encoder. One would be “Accelerate Time” and the other “Decelerate Time” and center push button feature would be “Normal Time”, correct?

More on this, this time the detents and no physical stop. Given I would be turning one half of the Duel Rotary Encoder to “Accelerate Time” once it hits x8 in the game continuous turning does not do anything. To decrease I would turn the other half Duel Rotary Encoder to “Decelerate Time”. After center pushing for “Normal Time” at some point and then later going back to “Accelerate Time” by turning the knob, the process starts over again because there's no physical stop in the encoder, correct?


Again I think my first answer will take care of this for you as well, the software can send an on/off signal for you depending on which position on the rotery that it is.

Question #5)

When are potentiometers used for keyboard functions that are not something like trim wheels, pedals etc..? A potentiometer would not really be used for what I described above, correct? Reason I ask is that in the latest patch for IL-2 they have added the ability of a user assigning an axis to “Zoom” I was thinking of using this with a dial rather then a slide. The ETI MW22B seems like this would be good for this, Yes/No?

I had not thought about it before but a rotery would be perfect for zoom if the game accepts an axis input for that feature, and I did notice that UP3 RC4 had that listed as an input for the controls. But I find it easier to use a foward and back hat switch for that function (Warthog).

Question #6)

LED lighting. Leo's card plugs in to the PC via the USB port and has power limitations as such. You can use LED's with the card but I think I would like to use more then what should be used with the card. So, can I use the action of the toggle switches and the other switches tied to the switch yet easily wire in and use seperate power source? Based on on what I saw online, the solution would be was to use the DPDT toggle switches for the switching part of the LED circuit yet have a separate power source for the power side of the LED circuit, Yes/No?. If some one knows more details on this, can they help explain in detail. Also if it is possible, please post up a diagram or a link to a diagram of how this would be wired?

I set up my LEDs to use bodnar outputs for power, and had no problems at all, as a matter of fact I should have added resistors to dim them as they are very bright. I did use DPDT switches.


Last Questions #7-8)

I have seen a couple of threads here and elsewhere on line showing images of the toggle switches being used. Most of what I saw where using tiny or otherwise smallish switches. I'm thinking that I would like to use more normal size switches. Is there an issues with using a larger switch, voltage amps etc.....?

Pricing on switches, it looks like some switches found on eBay are coming direct from China, they seem to be very low cost, in some instances prices seem to be stupid cheap in comparison to well known online suppliers. Given the panel will be inside and not used daily like with a machine in a business environment, should I be sticking with the stuff found on well known suppliers websites or arew the cheap Chian made switches OK to use given the function?

My advice would be to get the best available toggles that you can. The Chinese switches that I have purchased felt rough and in some cases fell apart after very little use. I also purchased twenty switches from a local electronics distributer that are night and day better, you can tell the difference just by the feel. The click is solid but smooth and the casing is well built, I have not had any of them fail on me, and of course I do not remember what brand they are, sorry.

Thanks for reading, if you have time and experience I would be grateful for input.

I hope this helps, I am by no means in the same league as Gene, Sokol nor Mike but I have done everything that you list above in my own pit with the same controller. I hope the aforementioned will chime in and help further.

If you're running LEDs straight off a +5 supply, you'll eventually destroy them.

Here's a handy drop resistor calculator for you:

http://ledcalculator.net/

g.

Propnut thanks for the response. To go some further with this,

#1 the switch used can be DPST? Are DPDT Toggle switches on-off or are they on-off-on? Asking clarification based on using LED's.

#2 In this instance the rotary will need a contact point at each detent and the number of detents and contact points need to be the sum of the switch positions desired.

Or is it that you can use software that can read the dentents and make this look like a physical switch action has taken place? I'm kind of confused on this one, so I need more clarification.

Also, in the case of the detents being handled in the software does each postion then take up a button count out of the total that the BU0386x can handle?

Sounds to me like you're saying that its wired much like a toggle switch, question then is on the button count being used.......would setting this one encoder up like described, take up 10 buttons?

#3 So the Encoder here should be the Dual Concentric Encoder, correct?

#4 If I'm following this correctly it sounds like your saying that the software can be configured to handle the button assingment based on the detents. Also, then if I'm getting this, it also sounds like any detent past x8 (Accelerate time) would be ignored, same for after x4 (Decelerate time), am I correct with this?

#5 The 4.10 patch from IC has the "Zoom" access added as well as addiitonal throttles, Prop Pitch and Radiator. Couple of other things commands (navigation is one), but you would need to look at the config screen on the patched version. I took screen captures of the patched IL-2 control panel and then compared with the original keyboard referance pdf and prior patch readme's to find the changes.

I have my CH assignments filled up and do not have a spare axis for the zoom and I'm liking the rotary knob better then a slider for this.

#6) I have seen him post that "Some" LED's are OK but I think I'm looking at near 35 total............not a hard number yet as I'm just getting things clear in my head before commiting on anything. But 35 to me is way more then some.

Heres Leo's answer from another thread with the question

_________________________


"Yes, as others suggested you can use +5V from the board to power some LEDs. Here is a simple ON only indication: http://www.leobodnar.com/forum/download/file.php?id=13 (dead link)

For anything more complex, just use DPDT switches - one side to commutate BU0836X inputs and the other to connect the LEDs.

Considering one LED consumes about 10mA of current you can safely connect about 6-7 before you reach the limit announced by the card to the OS. But in practice, you can cheat and get more if you plug it directly into PC or powered hub USB port. In such case you can get up to 500mA. That's plenty of LEDs!"

_________________________

I'm not 100% clear with electronics so I have no idea on exactly how many would work OR if theres an assumtpion such as max amps needing to stay under for each LED. Not really needing brightness, just looking to enhance the visual effect of the panel. Mostly I'm trying to see that if by adding some Green LED's and some RED LED's, a brief glance at the keyboard would cause a more detailed review of the switches or otherwise give a quick OK without detailed review that switches are where they are supposed to be in certain instances. Rough calc is that I would be wanting to have 24 Toggle switches on the panel.

#7) Thanks for the advice on this, thats the feedback that I was loooking for before buying something.

And Thanks for replying

#1 the switch used can be DPST? Are DPDT Toggle switches on-off or are they on-off-on? Asking clarification based on using LED's.

Yes, you can use DPST which is like two switches mated into one, so on/off. It will throw the LED circuit at the same time as the button.

#2 In this instance the rotary will need a contact point at each detent and the number of detents and contact points need to be the sum of the switch positions desired.

With the rotory switch that I used, there is a common ground and each button that you want to represent a detent on the rotory is connected to an solder lug. Mine might be a simpler version than the one that Leo Bodnar is selling as I have no experience with his. It was pretty easy, I just used a volt/ohm meter to test which position cooresponded to which detent. I found that you can order rotory switches with different number of detents to match your design. So pretty much...yes.

Or is it that you can use software that can read the dentents and make this look like a physical switch action has taken place? I'm kind of confused on this one, so I need more clarification.

Just like a toggle switch, SVMapper reports a keystroke when the rotory switch is in position 1 (for example) and makes it appear as if the key has been released (even though there is still a short created by the button, or button on status) and then reports that the button has been pushed again when the button is released (as if there were a second button push). To go from one end of the rotory to the other it would turn on and off each detent (push and release each button) until you are settled on the right one. Sort of like on an old TV, each station appears as long as the rotory switch is on that station.

Also, in the case of the detents being handled in the software does each postion then take up a button count out of the total that the BU0386x can handle?

Yes

Sounds to me like you're saying that its wired much like a toggle switch, question then is on the button count being used.......would setting this one encoder up like described, take up 10 buttons?

Each action that you want to happen will use up one button assignment on the board (I have mine set up for 40 button, 8 axis each), so yes.

#3 So the Encoder here should be the Dual Concentric Encoder, correct?

I have no experience with those, sorry.

#4 If I'm following this correctly it sounds like your saying that the software can be configured to handle the button assingment based on the detents. Also, then if I'm getting this, it also sounds like any detent past x8 (Accelerate time) would be ignored, same for after x4 (Decelerate time), am I correct with this?

Yes, if you have no wire going from those detent contacts to the controller nothing will happen when you switch to them.

#5 The 4.10 patch from IC has the "Zoom" access added as well as addiitonal throttles, Prop Pitch and Radiator. Couple of other things commands (navigation is one), but you would need to look at the config screen on the patched version. I took screen captures of the patched IL-2 control panel and then compared with the original keyboard referance pdf and prior patch readme's to find the changes.

I did the same when redoing my Warthog Rollouts. See my thread here in SimHQ on the switches/axis that I used.

I have my CH assignments filled up and do not have a spare axis for the zoom and I'm liking the rotary knob better then a slider for this.

You do not need a rotory switch, you can use a potentiometer and put a knob on it. Just my .02 though.

#6) I have seen him post that "Some" LED's are OK but I think I'm looking at near 35 total............not a hard number yet as I'm just getting things clear in my head before commiting on anything. But 35 to me is way more then some.

Yes, that is very much correct, and so is Gene (above). You can easily siphon power from your computer PSU (5v rail) for your LEDs, I thought about it but did not need than many LEDs when I set mine up.

Heres Leo's answer from another thread with the question

_________________________


"Yes, as others suggested you can use +5V from the board to power some LEDs. Here is a simple ON only indication: http://www.leobodnar.com/forum/download/file.php?id=13 (dead link)

For anything more complex, just use DPDT switches - one side to commutate BU0836X inputs and the other to connect the LEDs.

Considering one LED consumes about 10mA of current you can safely connect about 6-7 before you reach the limit announced by the card to the OS. But in practice, you can cheat and get more if you plug it directly into PC or powered hub USB port. In such case you can get up to 500mA. That's plenty of LEDs!"

_________________________

I'm not 100% clear with electronics so I have no idea on exactly how many would work OR if theres an assumtpion such as max amps needing to stay under for each LED. Not really needing brightness, just looking to enhance the visual effect of the panel. Mostly I'm trying to see that if by adding some Green LED's and some RED LED's, a brief glance at the keyboard would cause a more detailed review of the switches or otherwise give a quick OK without detailed review that switches are where they are supposed to be in certain instances. Rough calc is that I would be wanting to have 24 Toggle switches on the panel.

#7) Thanks for the advice on this, thats the feedback that I was loooking for before buying something.

And Thanks for replying


Again, I am not the best one to answer these questions as my knowledge is all trial and error (mostly error), Sokol, Gene and Mike are the experts and I bow to their experience. (and beg for help once in a while, lol).

I just realized that we may be confusing Rotary Encoders with Rotary Switches, I am using a rotary switch not an encoder. From what I understand, you can do much more with an encoder with far fewer button inputs but I have no experience with encoders. I apologize if I confused things for you.

A rotary encoder will consume 2 inputs (typically). One for left steps, one for right steps.

g.

PropNut give you all you need, but some coments:



Basically you find this types of toggle switch:
ON-OF
ON-OF-ON
ON)-OF-ON
ON)-OF-(ON)

( ) mean momentary contact

For example (ON)-OF-(ON) is ideal for FLAPs control (like the control in Warthog throttle).




The trick is use the program suggested by PropNut (SVMapper or similar) to translate ON and OF positions of switch in keystrokes. But notice that due the use of the same command (G) for lower and raising the gear, sometimes after re-start the game, you end with inverted positions: Switch are DOWN and gear are UP.

This is not BU0836 or switch fault, is IL-2 limitation.

AFAIK some MOD versions of IL-2 allow map a different keys for gear UP and Gear DOWN (like you can do in IL-2:CLoD), so it does not happen.



Here use a Encoder (that generate one button if turn clockwise and another if turn counter-clockwise) is not suitable (1) - to change all cockpit positions you need different 10 buttons.
To do this is need a rotary switch:



Notice that every cockpit you jump use one button position in BU0836, that mean use 10 of 32 buttons available in BU0836 in a "secondary" function.

(1)What you do with Encoder is: turn clockwise jump to next, turn counter-clockwise jump to pilot.

Probable use a (ON)-OF-(ON) switch is more cost/effective. In momentary (ON) position upward you jump to next cockpit, in momentary (ON) downward position you jump Cockpit #1 (pilot).



To this Encoder (288T232R161A2) are perfect, if turn Clockwise send a "Next Beacon" command, if turn counter-clockwise send a "Previous Beacon".

The detents in CTS 288 give you a feedback that you change for next or previous Beacon, but dont generate a different key press for every detents - they repeat the same keypress. Notice that Encoder use two buttons position in BU0836 (BU0836/A/X can handle up to 16 Encoder - if no button is used).

Use too for "Compass Heading Plus and Minus" functions.



Is the same case of Next/Previous Beacon, but you dont need a dual concentric Encoder. A 288V232R161B do the job. Use the the push switch to "Normal Time".

A dual concentric Encoder mean two encoder in same body. See in this diagram that use FOUR buttons position in BU0836 (plus one for push button).
http://www.leobodnar.com/products/BU0836X/ELMA-BU0836X.gif



To use potentiometer for keyboard functions (generate keystrokes) you need specific software that translate the axis inputs in keystrokes, like Autohotkey. Is doable, but add a bit of complication. If possible avoid.



Yes, you can use a pot - rotary or slide one - to control zoom since IL-2 4.10 or up allow control this in axis.
But ETI MW22B - a multi-turn pot - is not necessary (and probable slow) reserve this model to functions that require precision, like Elevator/Rudder Trim. To zoom, P260 (or similar) is fine.



If some one knows more details on this, can they help explain in detail. Also if it is possible, please post up a diagram or a link to a diagram of how this would be wired?

[/quote]

Yes, with DPDT switch and a external +5V (1) source you can associated LED to switch action - dont forget the mentioned resistor to protect LED.

(1) If you plan use only few LED's you can use the +5V and GND extra pins in BU0836, but I dont know how many...

Drawing posted by L.Bodnar in this (now RIP) support forum:


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Sokol1

Thanks guys for the help so far.

So with the LED's I can power them right of the PC's 5V power lead IF add in the proper resistor before each LED. So I can then use the second part of the DPDT toggle switch to light and an LED tied to the action of that switch. If I wanted, in some cases I could have one LED tied to one side of the switch such as BLUE LED when toggle up and a RED LED tied to the other side of the switch when the toggle is down, correct?

With the encoders I think whats got me mixed up are rotary switches and rotary encoders. My head hurts when I read the wikipedia pages article on rotary encoders. I'm thinking that the rotary encoder Leo is offering is a more basic rotary encoder as it fits for what his device is used for, correct?

So back to thinking some more....to get clear how things should work.

For reference here’s a link to his wiring diagram for his dual concentric rotary encoder. http://www.leobodnar.com/products/BU0836X/ELMA-BU0836X.gif

To me that looks like each knob is used to have the effective action of pressing the same associated key repeatedly. One dual concentric rotary encoder would be good for the “Next Beacon” and “Prev Beacon and another dual concentric rotary encoder would be good “Accelerate Time” and Decelerate Time”

But a rotary encoder could not be used for the crew position switch. For the crew position whats needed is a rotary switch, correct? This switch would need at least 10 electrical connections. If it had 12 or 14 I could just not connect more then 10 wires.

Based on reading some more and listening to what you guys are saying, for the crew positions all I need is a basic single pole rotary switch, correct? Maybe I can find one with the center momentary button as well as I like this for quickly getting back to the pilot seat without needing a separate toggle for that command.

Gene, thanks for the link. I need to ask another question on the LED's. Advice on what values in the specs for the LEDS should I be looking at?

Yes, with ON-OF-ON switch.



In fact just ONE Dual Concentric encoder can handle Beacon and Time. The inner knob control Beacon, the outside knob control Time.

BTW - Beacon and Compass Heading in the same Concentric encoder is more appropriated.



Rotary switch allow you to select crew positions (1, 2... 10 > 1, 2...10>) - cycling between then indefinitely, and allow GO BACK back for some position - cycling by the precedents. IE. > 1, 2, 3, 4, 5,6 < 5, 4, 3, 2.

Encoder allow you to JUMP (default key C) to next crew position indefinitely (1, 2, 3...10 > 1, 2...10>)- but dont allow you to go back between all them, just to one position (ie pilot, rear gunner...).



I think that you find rotary Switch with 3 or more buttons. Instead use Encoder with push button: Turn (L or R) to jump to next crew, press to pilot position.

Sokol1

Fantastic stuff.

Sokol1,

To avoid the issue with inverted positions on game restart then a DPDT (on)-off-(on) toggle switch is good, but then you loose the look of the physical switch position and would want to have LED's to inform of the position, correct?

Planned on giving one of the mod suites a try, maybe another good reason to check in into using one of them.

Single momentary button for stuff like MAP, Pause Game, Toggle icons....., correct?

_____________

With "Time" and "Beacon" For the dual concentric encoders you're right....had it my notes but it did not come out that way in the post.
_____________

Need to just make 100% sure what you are saying with the the encoder and crew position.

Commands in IL-2 related to crew position:

Pilot or Gunner Position C
Jump to Cockpit #1 (Pilot) User Defined
Jump to Cockpit #2 User Defined
Jump to Cockpit #3 User Defined
Jump to Cockpit #4 User Defined
Jump to Cockpit #5 User Defined
Jump to Cockpit #6 User Defined
Jump to Cockpit #7 User Defined
Jump to Cockpit #8 User Defined
Jump to Cockpit #9 User Defined
Jump to Cockpit #10 User Defined

So, what I should do is use the encoder and tie this to "C" (Pilot or Gunner Position), correct?

If I'm following you correctly, this just keeps going to the next or prev position depending on the direction I'm turning the dial. Along with this I would also tie the momentary push button to " Jump to Cockpit #1" so that regardless of what position in with the dial I'm back to the pilot seat after pushing in on the encoder.

The next time I want to go to a crew position I just turn the dial.........I guess it would be correct to assume that any time I'm in pilot position and I turn the dial I'll always be starting out in the same position (#2) and will rotate forward or back from there. If all of above is correct I'm 100% good on this one.

Going to give it break for tonight after this post and tomorrow get my notes out and edit to see if it all looks good.

With the help given I have more confidence in this..........earlier today I was like fudge, just go buy an ugly switch panel and don't over complicate things.

Thanks