First, a thanks to 'mustang137' for the idea/blueprint, and also to 'metalnwood' for the extension/offset adjuster.



Although I've labelled this a centre-mount, it doesn't have to be and is flexible enough to be used on the right hand side. Also, the extension isn't required either, its totally optional for me it is really used to alleviate the Warthog sticktion and increase sensitivity. I'm currently using a 6" extension.

Anyway, on to the build....

Components used:

Small wooden baseplate (any chunk of MDF will do) - £1
110mm Pond Flange - £4.99
110mm PVC Waste pipe - £9.99 for a 2 meter length
110mm end cap - £1.99
Instant Concrete - £3.99
Carbon Fibre wrap (basically a big sticker) - £5.99 on ebay (600mm x 1000mm)

Total cost - £24 (with plenty of materials left over)

Step 1
I cut a 18cm x 18cm baseplate and wrapped it up like a parcel with the carbon fibre wrap. This wrap is quite good and that any airbubbles don't have to be 'chased' to the edges......the fibre weave is full of microscopic holes so the bubbles can be eased out without fuss.

I then found the centre and screwed the pond flange onto it.




Step 2
I then filled the base with concrete, this was really just to make the job easier in the next step. I could have left it until the main tube was in place and then filled it with concrete but wanted to create a 'seal' in the bottom of the flange.




Step 3
I then needed to double-check the height I wanted the stick to be:



This was slightly too high, I would have had to raise the ceiling or get a sim-chair on stilts

I selected a 35cm section of tube and made the cut



Step 4
I dropped the tube into the flange, with the rough edge I'd just cut pointing down into the bottom.




Step 5
The trusty carbon fibre wrap came out again and I covered the main tube




Step 6
At this point I filled the tube half way with more concrete. As I mentioned previously I had already filled the base a little bit to create the seal. This meant I could just pour the concrete into the tube and not worry about any liquid oozing out of the bottom. This concrete also makes the flange/tube join permanent by creating an additional seal inside the tube. I dropped a few stones into the top of the concrete to set for extra weight.......this concrete gives a nice low-level ballast to the tube ensuring it's not going to slide anywhere and stop the whole thing from tipping over. I'd guess-ti-mate that the base weighs about 6-7 Kg.




Step 7
Next stop is to prep the end cap. Unfortunately I could only get hold of an orange coloured one.....



Again, the trusty carbon fibre wrap went on, then I drilled 4 x holes through in a 60mm x 60mm square pattern. I used the original Warthog screws that secure the stick to the metal base and tightened up.

I then just popped the cap and stick onto the tube.



All up, this took no more than 2 hours of labour to complete but I allowed 2 x overnight sessions for the concrete to dry.

Here is is with my previously built Throttle stand......I just slide these out of the way when not in use....




Here is the joystick parked up for the night.

A very professional result using easily obtainable materials. Well done Paradaz

Nicely done! Looks great!

Nice work!

You guys are tempting me towards a Warthog. For SHAME!

(Where'd the extension collar come from?)

g.

th

The extension is from 'metalnwood' on this very forum ...... (link to extension / offset adjuster thread)

Looks great thanks for this!

I've also got my extension now I just need to build the base.

Have you got a post about your throttle stand? Or could you please share the plans/dimensions you used? It looks great.

Also did you end up offsetting the stick by 15 degrees?

The throttle stand is very simple and just built like a free standing shelf. The dimensions are:

Width: 19cm
Depth: 29cm
Height: 60cm

The warthog throttle sits flush with the top of the stand and the usb connector passes through a small hole in the back. I left the original baseplate on. I will add some photos of it when I get back from work. I didnt use the offest either, I prefer it as it is.

I get the idea about the weight, but how does the stand "stand" up to throwing the joystick around (ie, evading SAMs)?

I still prefer having the joystick assembly connected to the throttle for extra stability. But thanks a lot for posting this design, I was looking for a good way to set up my center mount. Does the PVC assembly "flex" in any way?

Offsetting the joystick is very easy with metalnwood's extension. Just loosen the top knob, twist the stick 15 degrees, then tighten the knob again. Much more ergonomic.