Hi,
I've got a situation that I'd like solve. My wife tends to hog my desktop for Facebook and other garbage even though I bought her a good laptop with wireless abilities. She says the wireless connection as fast as the wired..of, course. Anyhow, I'd like to setup an exta router downstairs that she can plug into for a wired, fast connection. Additionally, I'd like to plug in my PS3, and other future internet ready devices. My cable connection downstairs runs directly into my Verizon Fios DVR/cable box.

I'm using a wireless Verizon Fios modem for the desktop, which the laptop currently uses. I have in the closest an older (~2yr) wireless linksys router that isn't being used. I would like to use the Linksys router downstairs for my wife's laptop, PS3, etc. I plan on running RJ45 under the floor back to where my wife can plug in while still sitting in her chair for a wired connection. The other devices would plug into the router near the DVR in the entertainment center.

Can anyone help me out? I believe myself to be fairly computer savvy, but networking isn't my strong point. Please forgive me, but I probably need to be spoon-feed on the steps needed to accomplish this project (spoon-feed = step by step).

TIA,
HB

If that leaves you with just your PC upstairs, a single stealthily hidden RJ45 won't solve it for you? I'd also am interested in this, the wife and I (Wife-I har har) are getting a new place, but with her parents... and I think we will end up with 4 or 5 running PCs...

I think that the signal coming out of the wall is looking for a certain, or a singular anyway, MAC-Address of the cable modem so I think you'd need to split off from there... multiple modems ... possible? I don't think so...

Hello Heinz - What you want is termed a 'wired repeater', which simply means that you use a router or wireless router to continue carrying a wired signal from another router. Since I dont know what model Linksys you have, you will have to call them and ask them if it can be used as a wired repeater (most can but some cannot). (Edit - I did not mention the cheapest method which is an inexpensive ethernet hub or switch bc you indicated a preference for your Linksys router, but that would be the simplest and cheapest way to go) Depending upon exact model, it can also be a pain in the butt to configure the Linksys from your main router. Usually though, it is much easier and a sometimes cheaper step to use newer powerline technology. Probably the best models are currently made by Netgear:

http://www.netgear.com/home/products/powerline-and-coax/default.aspx

This allows you to run a standard ethernet cable from your main router to a powerline jack connected in a regular wall electrical socket. You then put another powerline jack in the room your wife wants to use the wired laptop in, and run ethernet cable from the Powerline jack to the laptop. (the data flow is running over the standard electrical wiring in your wall) You wont get gigabyte speeds but with the high performance stuff you will get perhaps 400 Mbps in real world usage.

Women and Facebook, lol .... as bears are to honey.

S! WD

S!,
I was thinking it could be an easy job, but I'm not quite finding the information I'm looking for on the internet. Hopefully, my little diagram will paint a better picture than my words. I probably should have worded the title of this thread 2 routers, 2 connections, 1 account

HB

I'm no expert. My wife's laptop also needed a good fast connection and long range too -- up to nearly 100ft through walls.

Wireless IEEE 802.11b/g is short range and slow. Its what we had, and you may have it too as it was the common solution up until recently. Wireless "n" (that is usually shown as IEEE 802.11b/g/n) is much faster and has triple to quadruple the range.

I assume you have cable into a router that is both wireless and wired -- that's what I had but it was b/g wireless.

Using the original-router software I deactivated the wireless aspect of the original-router. I bought a new router with wireless b/g/n and connected it via cable to the original router. Output of original router to "internet" input of new router. I also disconnected my computer from the original-router and connected it too to the new router. So, the original-router had only 1 basic job -- take in the signal from the ISP and route it to the new router. Of course, I had to read the instructions that came with the new router and set the software in old and new.

My wife's laptop has "n" built in -- so, she connected automatically (just had to type in the password I provided) -- problem solved for me. You might have to get her a wireless b/g/n USB dongle to plug into her laptop if it does not have "n" built in already.

Shopping shell shocker and email sales at Newegg, it was fairly cheap overall -- under $50 for Wireless router and dongle (we have two other computers in the house that also use the wireless -- got dongles for them).

That's the outline of what we did. Again, I'm no expert -- I just muddle around 'till I get stuff to work. I couldn't write a step by step approach in your unique case (beyond what I wrote above). Maybe someone else can.

P.S. Of course, if you already have "n" wireless, the above "solution" does not apply to your case

What Allen is describing Heinz is a wired repeater (as already mentioned).

The simple answer to your question, can you have only one ISP account and two separate routers (one upstairs and one downstairs that are not connected).... answer...no. (Unless you wish to pay for two accounts). In some countries in Europe and South Korea, ...YES... in the USA .... no.

In your diagram, you must plugin say a powerline unit in the electrical wall socket closest to your workstation upstairs, and then plug in a powerline unit in the electrical socket closest to your wife's computer. (Or run Cat5 ethernet cable down to your second linksys router being used as a wired repeater near your TV thru the wall and then run cable from it following your 7.1 stuff to your wife's room).

Thanks guys!!

My wife's laptop has the b/g version. I'll try to find a b/g/n adaptor via the net. I believe broadcom is the current modem and there seems to be plenty used ones on Ebay.

Just a quick question: Does my Verizon Fios wireless router need to be "n" capable? If so, how do I find out if the modem is "n" capable? Again, I apologize. Networking isn't my thing.

HB

Yes, your router has to transmit in "n" so she can receive in "n".

That's why two of us mentioned a second "n" type "repeater" router attached to your original b/g modem/router. Your original modem/router may still be needed to get the signal from Verizon -- however, if its b/g it cannot transmit a strong fast signal. So, you keep using it to get a signal from Verizon. But, you immediately pass that signal to an "n" type router for transmission around your home (and attachment to your PC).

It may be written on the router or in the router manual "specifications". If not, get the make and part number and Google it. In my case, my original router does not have b/g written on it (that info was in the manual); however, the new "n" router does have "n" written on it.

Again, if your router is already an "n" version, you need only buy a dongle for your wife. Thing is, most slightly older routers are only b/g -- they're still being sold and are usually cheaper -- the kind of thing one might get for "free" from Verizon.

BTW, some dongles come with an antenna attached -- others are compact like a USB flash drive. I have used both and they both have good speed and range in my house -- nonetheless I prefer the antenna type for use on my desktop computers. Might want more compact for a laptop.

To start with, what people consider a "router" at home is a multifunction device. It's a router, a switch and, most often these days, a wireless access point. The modem is the point of contact between your home (actually your ISP account) and the ISP. You can't split that to two routers in your home, just like you can't split that to go to 2 pc's. That's what routers and switches are for (at home anyway).
RJ45 is the jack, CAT5 is the cable you're looking for.

I believe that if you have for instance an older Linksys WRT54G router that you can flash it to function as a bridge or repeater, but not with Linksys/Cisco firmware. I wouldn't bother getting into this, that may be a bigger can of worms than you want to deal with.

If I'm understanding this right:
You've got the modem, router attached to the modem and these are downstairs.
Wife's laptop is wireless and on the same floor as the router, but "slow" or unreliable. (more later).

I'm worried that you won't get a reliable signal from the router downstairs on your upstairs pc with a USB dongle or even network card with a small antenna. There are larger antennas you can configure, but still, not too hopeful. You can always try, but you need to test under different conditions. Home wiring, microwaves, flourescent lights...all kinds of things can interfere with a signal that might otherwise make the "distance" to the pc, but not with the interference. You can play around with raising the router as high as possible, relocating in the room to improve the direct line to the pc of course. For example, in my home a pc I had networked in our bedroom would connect on the side of the tv nearest the router, but on the other side of the tv, 3' further, it was unreliable. I swear that even time of day affected it, sunspots? No idea. And this was all on the same floor, about 25' but with the kitchen in between.

Option 1:
Get a wireless repeater.
This would go around the halfway point between your upstairs pc and the downstairs router, cutting the distance covered by half on the part of your network card. You would connect wirelessly to the repeater, which is connected wirelessly to the router's wireless access point.

Option 2:
Get a bridge.
Your pc would connect to this via ethernet cable and it in turn connects wirelessly to to your router, like the repeater. It will pick up better than your network card, so it's less likely to run into interference issues.

Option 3, mentioned above by Whistling:
Powerline adapter, like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Netgear-85Mbps-Pow...0730&sr=8-1
There are faster ones, but unless you need to move a lot of large files very quickly between devices on your home network, why spend more? Far faster than your internet connection anyway.
I've heard good things about these, although I don't recommend a certain make/model.
Benefits: imagine having a wired network, from your router to the upstairs pc. However, instead of running ethernet cable, it uses the house's own wiring between electrical outlets. The issue that can come from this is if the house has a more complex wiring scheme with 2 breaker boxes etc. If the outlets used aren't connected due to being on independent wiring systems, obviously they won't be able to connect for this either---not common though. Otherwise, more reliable than going wireless.

Modem---Router----Powerline adapter in wall outlet downstairs-------Powerline adapter upstairs at the pc outlet-------pc network card plugs into the powerline adapter.
And there you go.


Personally, I'd go with option 3 unless you have complex wiring in the household or a reason to want wireless upstairs. Looks like there are adapters to use this system to add a wireless access point too. The basic set up is more reliable than typical wireless solutions, less trouble and although not as cheap as an old router in the closet, it's not unreasonable. It's also expandable.
If the PS3 isn't connecting wirelessly well enough, get an additional powerline adapter (single unit) for it.
If your wife's laptop isn't connecting wirelessly well enough, get an additional powwerline adapter for it.
I see now that they even have them with additional ethernet ports, so you could set up more devices with one adapter.
http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Powerline-...940&sr=8-12


Your wife mentioning that her wireless connection isn't as fast as the wired desktop probably indicates interference, btw. Wireless networking itself is far faster than your ISP connection. It just doesn't take any real additional processing power and it's not slow. However, it *is* subject to interference. That's why in a large building with a wireless network you'll see wireless access points in the ceiling in key areas, every floor and probably every 50' or so, depending on interference levels and signal quality. Like I said before, try moving the router around a bit. Get it up a high as possible, in the open and with as little in "line of sight" (so to speak) between it and where your wife uses the laptop. Then try moving the wife around a bit to test different spots. LOL

I'd explore option 3, per Kryptonite's advice. I haven't tried powerline myself personally, but it seems a lot more predictable than wireless provided you're familiar with the wiring of your own house.

If you're going to go wireless, you'd want to set up a wireless bridge (Where "--" denotes ethernet and "..." denotes wireless, Modem--Wireless Router...Wireless Router--computer). Setting the second router up as a repeater will chop your bandwidth in two past the repeater, which you won't want if you think the wireless is slow as it is. Even then, you're going to have the following issues to worry about.

* Signal degradation due to obstacles & range

* " due to interference from phones, household electronics and nearby competing APs (if nearby APs use channels 1,6, or 11, assume you'll start at 1/2 of that advertised 300mbps N and start rapidly deducting bandwidth according to the other factors)

* Getting your wireless devices to agree with each other, esp. if they're made by different manufacturers. For no explicable reason, I've often seen client cards cause lock-ups & reboots or have seen two compatible routers simply refuse to bridge.

* Last, make sure you get a compatible wireless card for that laptop. Even if the card will physically fit and drivers support it, many manufacturers include whitelists in their BIOSes that prohibit any cards not "authorized" by them. If it shipped with b/g, I'm guessing it's an older model that may or may not have been updated to allow for certain N cards.

In short, wireless is a hassle. Even if you invest in some good antennas & gear, sometimes there are just too many unforeseeable problems in getting it all to just work. I'd look into Powerline first and weigh potential issues against wireless.

FWIW, using an "n" type wireless router (Rosewill with 3 good antennas -- under $30 on special sale) and "n" dongle (multiple makes/models in the $20 range) works throughout our house -- 110ft x 80ft x 3 levels (max dimensions) -- transmitter (WiFi router) centrally located on the middle level. Other folks, bringing their "n" WiFi devices (e.g. their laptop or e-book) into our house have easily used them far from the transmit point for bi-directional communication.

Prior to going "n", we had "b/g" -- the reliable range on b/g was less than 30ft (through thick walls) even with the "largest" after market antennas at both the transmit and receive points. As you indicate, network cards with small antenna's did not work reliably at 30ft with b/g.

I am assuming the subject application only requires a range of about 30 feet. Thus, as the OP indicates, b/g works -- albeit slowly -- hence the request for a faster solution. "n" should have no problems using decent dongles at such close range (if b/g already works), in my experience.

Anyhow, since "n" with dongles was such a cheap/easy solution for us in a large house, I could recommend it, in general. What I can't do easily is tell others how to hook up such a router to their specific "modem". I also cannot guarantee that the laptop in question will accept a dongle on top of its own internal WiFi.

I've got a dual N band router, but the issue I'm talking about isn't the distance---it's interference. Your neighbor 2 houses down might be picking you up fine, but in certain areas of your own house you may have issues due to sources of interference.
The only way to find out is to try it with the devices you want to use. You can't assume that a wireless network that works at one house will work just as well at another house. They're all a little different.

I agree

I think for PowerLine, Both Terminals have to utilize the same Breaker Group/Circuit.

So, If upstairs and down stairs are on separate circuits (which going by residential building code they better be), the powerline wouldnt work, as it only sends the signal on the local physical circuit, and not back through the breaker box and to another circuit in your home.

If you have another router, you set one up to be a wireless access point / gateway. So You'd Have Modem-> Router A-> Router B Set As Access Point -> laptop.

Interfearance may be an issue, as My parents house they put their router in my old room which is in the far end of their house, and between my room and the living room/den is a long hallway,. with a closet that has the Gas water heater, the Electric Heat Pump and all that crap, not to mention countless other appliances that give off a pretty nice size EM field (as they cause image distortion on my parents old old CRT TV.)

That's the big downside to powerline adapters is they both have to be on the same phase or leg. One room may be on the other phase or side and it won't work. They also don't work with any kind of surge protector. I did successfully make mine work though. Ran a powerline adapter from my 2Wire router/modem and in the other room across the house another PL adapter and a Dlink router. Works fine.