I just scored an old f16 fighterstick to keep for the grip (since a10 does not have paddle i just have to mod it with dual stage trigger er) and a pro throttle to cannibalize on ebay, so goddbye PCBS (thanks anyhow), After some thinking i decided to use a sigle BU card in the SFS case and replicate the Warthog throttle more closely, can someone tell me that switches on the warthog are momentary and what ones are toggles?

Now that phase 1 (basically learning what BU0836 can do) of project is done and i almost finished converting my old FLCS + Tqs to USB i made up my mind on how to proceed.
As stated before suncom SFS will be re-housed onto a new base and will have is own "brain" with (if possible ) even more buttons that the warthog.
For the joystick i just realized that since am modding it to be center mounted I just decided to create the box that is at the base of the F15 grip that will house the diode matrix and will have a 10 pin Amphenol plug to connect to the joystick base more or less like real F-15 does.
The reason of this kind of connection is that since i want to be able to switch between different grips: Suncom (F-15) Thrustmaster FLCS MK1 (B-8) and CH figtrstick (A-10).
Since Suncom's base is too weak to handle the extended joystick I'm reusing the good old metal FLCS (from which i taken the B8 style grip) mk1 base maybe with some dampeners.

Any suggestion on the extension amount and the shape of the collar (i will not use the stick on a table anymore of course)?
Any suggestion on how to multiply the ratio to achieve more precision?

Many thanks in advance to all

quick update i finished to convert the F-16 FLCS to hall effect sensors, linearity is good from 3 to 97 % of the measured value, contrary o what i believed the stick is too much responsive, I've got 30° of useful travel (basically i should restrict the hole in the base by 4mm on each side), I think this is due to my magnet assembly. I can live with that but if i have trouble i can always switch to the good old CH pots.

Yesterday i removed hall sensors assemblies and put CH POTS borrowed form the f16 fighter stick full 0~4095 range linearity achieved, i also finished mounting the tqs micro joystick for targeting. Ill keep the magnet assembly for the center mounted stick.

Quick update I'm getting crazy to get rid of the center play of the F16 FLCS so i ordered an F22 pro to rehouse the BU0836 in a better encasing. I ordered 2 Samsung 8" USB monitor photo frame to be put behind the cougar MFD and ill use the unused space for the DED and some gauges, going to buy Helios software once i understood why so many personal data are needed to register.

I should be ready to start working on the WH throttle this weekend. all other parts of the project are on hold. btw where can i find 3d hall sensors?

http://parts.digikey.com/1/parts/1486432-ic-3d-joystick-pos-sensor-8-soic-mlx90333kdc-bch.html

Someone say that this things needed programming. And they probably need auxiliary amplifier circuit.

Why not try DIY MaRS whit available schemes.

Sokol1

You can show picture, that how fit the microstick in the TQS? and how change out the potmeter for the Hall sensor? I would like change the potmeter in my FLCS too . What kind of HALL sensor use you ?
I would like to made a new gimbal in my FLCS and put inside HALL sensor
my gimbal desing is this: http://noob.hu/2011/05/16/joy.jpg
The centering spring like the Saitek joystick, only bottom side

The do need programming, and the programmer is about $1500 USD. It's the same one that TM uses. CADDY has the programmer and was playing with different values.

Incidentally Sokol, I haven't been able to find the MaRS schemes. (Well, just the one)

Ltfransky,

Thanks to confirm the programing need. So this sensor is not good option for DIY...

The so-called "MaRS" (МАРСЫ) is Russian circuit using magnetoresistive angle sensor (like these used in automotive industry). Advantages over ordinary HALL Sensor:

-good linearity sensitivity.
-dont need very strong magnets.
-if gimbal have metal structure this dont affect the sensor.
-whit trim pot you can adjust travel output angle.

This make more ease to install and adjust MaRS setups.

Due need of auxiliary amplifier circuit is more expensive than stand alone HALL sensor.

Sample of circuity:



Assembled "MaRS" sold by GLV224 from Ukrania (10 euros).




The blue thing is for adjust readable angle.

In term of resolution/precision no advantage from "MaRS" of HALL.

BTW- I dont experiment with these circuits - local market dont have all components, what I say is from lecture in simmers forums.

Commercial controllers that use "MaRS":

VKB Rudder Pedal: http://www.vkb-flightsimcontrols.com/
Gametrix steering wheel: http://www.gametrix.ru/publications/15
Gametrix throttle: http://gametrix.ru/products/8

Sokol1

In the TQS for the microstick i just removed the old eraser head module and i put the new microstick in place with a lot of hot glue and i masked the hole for the stick with apiece of black rubber (unfortunately i forgot to take picture while i was working), for the hall sensor i can' find the site that suggested the mod (Should be check six) i'll post it as soon as i can find it.

For the FLCS gimbals I' working on a mod on the stock ones as soon as i can find the right springs ill post it on the forum