Hi chaps,

Finaly i came to build a proper control column for myself. I would like to use HS, but i am totaly rookie in this topic. I want to use it with a Leo Bodnar card. What are my options? What should I buy and how should I install it? Thanks for your help


MM

Did you see the last few pages of my build thread? I did the same thing using hall effect sensors and a Leo Bodnar BU836X board.

Edit: My build thread:
http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/2849902/5.html

about half way down on this page is a link to a PDF that explains how to build your own U-Joint controller with details on using a magnet and hall effect sensor.

David

I could not find it. Nice project indeed;)

The HALL sensor "Bible":

http://www.jpfiles.com/hardware/uni_stick.pdf

See in PDF Sample of M.Powell book: Building Recreational Flight Simulators
some tips about DIY HALL sensor.

http://www.mikesflightdeck.com/upcoming_book.htm

And see Bauer tips in this Russian Forum:

http://translate.google.com.br/translate...um.php%3Ff%3D28

Drop-in HALL sensor:

http://www.potentiometers.com/select_hall.cfm?session_num=2010012708011362

A steep ahead is use MaRS ("tunned"HALL sensor") (used in VKB rudder Pedal and Gametrix Steering Wheell)- but involve building PCB circuits.
All know about is in Russian some links here:

http://avia-sim.ru/forum/viewforum.php?f=28

Sokol1

This is the file that I was referring to. I used it as my bible as well. Thanks for posting it Sokol1

David

This is very useful, thank you!

Im going the same way as you (an im a newbie also) i just realized my first assembly last weekend and it was a piece of cake. Just dont screw up with +5v and ground and everything else will be fine, BU0836 ( i suggest the 12 bit version) is a very good brain for a joystick. Just bevare that working with electronics can be very addictive, take your time and never work tired.

Thank you for the tip, I will keep it in mind. I just decided to give up the idea of building a 100% self made gimbal. I purchased a Yamaha U-Joint from the e-bay. I will use that instead.
I read some articles about using hydraulic dampers in Joysticks. Has anyone any experience with them?

cheers
MM

What kind of description did you use when looked for the U joint?

IF you need return to center i would suggest to use springs to handle it and dampers hydrauilc dampers only to achieve more smoothness.

Bluedeath,

Search for Yamaha U-Joint:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-19...sQ5fAccessories

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/yamaha-se...=item1e614d1bda

These model is desirable due "spider" mount, so you dont need use solder.

But many automotive U-Joint is fine. Look for model with hollow shaft (in cross piece)
to lubrication.

Sokol1

i just bought this:

link

Do you guys think that is ok?

How much degree of travel should i use in a floor stick (side to side)?

Bluedeath,

Before define degrees for joystick travel measure how many degrees
you get with you HALL assembly, and use this to define pole length,
base hight.

For example, if you use a 75 cm pole - approximated height need for base
in floor with conventional desk chair - to achieve + 20 - 20 degrees
in HALL, you need around 52 cm of travel in top of stick, that is too much,
causing conflict with legs.

I suggest to you make some simulation with some CAD soft - the freeware Google
Sketchup do this and is easy to use.

Sokol1

You're right my actual question should have been how much travel (in centimeters) do the center stick mounted in real fighter aircraft do have (Average)?

Real modern fighter like F-18 (since some others use sensor force sticks) or WWII fighter?

Sokol1

You are right, i think that F15 or A10 is what i have in mind as a model (but i actually don't know the differences between sticks of these planes), i would like to use the center mounted stick for helicopter sims also so i need to find a good compromise. as for the angle im planning to use teflon gears to amplify movement range, siwhat i really need is just to find out the correct amount of travel of the stick.

Here's a snippet from a book Hall-effect Sensors: Theory and Applications
Might try inter-library loan from your local library to get full book.

I used the method shown in figure 6-12 to make cheap pots to put in my Cougar. The range of motion of the Cougar is in the very nearly linear portion of the hall-effect sensor output so no correction needed.

Fyi, the Current A-10 uses the same Stick grip as the F-16:


And the F-15/F-18 use the T-shaped stick:


More on the F-15 stick can be found here:
http://www.f-15e.info/joomla/technology/cockpit/80-pilot-flight-stick

I personally prefer the F-15/18 style. The F16/A-10 stick has an extra hat, but you have to reach over it to hit the fire button. Your also reaching over the lower right hat to each the upper.


That said, you can Source an F-15/18 stick from a Suncom talon joystick, or an A-10/F-16 stick from a CH fighterstick. The latter can be found for cheap on ebay if you look for the serial port model (the one that doesn't support USB), as they've become outdated.

Dorght

That's match with Bic assembly.

Interesting read, thanks for post.

Agressorblue,

Maybe arranges show in figure 6-10 and 6-11 work for replace SFS pot's.

Sokol1

I already have F15 grip (from talon) F-16 grip (form CH fighter stick) and (cheap) B8 stick (from TM FCS MK1), im using 10 pin round Amphenol connectorto mount the grip on the stick, i figured out that i can reduce the travel of the stick to less than 20° by placing magnets nearer than the normal BIC assembly , basically put 3 5mm side cubic magnet together and i glue the 2 external ones on 2 PVC plastic rails with cyano acrilate glue and the i push out the middle one.