I'm using 1/8"

Another motion simulator being discussed over that lockon Russian forums. It's a USB solution still under development, and should cost less than $1000.

http://www.simcraft.com

According to their news page, they have plans available for $20, but I can't find the link.

Cheers,
LP

Lazer - Don't get your hopes up. Simcraft is a huge scam. (IMHO)

That site has been up for years now. No development...no progress...no pics.
More than a year after missing their original launch, all that had changed was the graphics on their website. As a matter of fact, that's all that ever changes.
After dozens of missed launches, without any explanation, I finally gave up on them. And that was quite a while ago. Amazingly, I just checked your link and there still hasn't been any progress...just another new web site design!

I (and others) regularly posted on their forums, questioning their plans, asking for updates, asking for explanations on all of their missed dates and broken promises. Any slightly negative, or contrary post was promptly deleted. I see that now the forums have been removed. (Probably couldn't keep up with all the disgruntled simmers!)

Bill Macdonald did create the original home made version out of wood, PVC, and an old vacuum cleaner back in the late '90s. This company was formed 2 years after his death and has been riding the coat tails of his success ever since.

I firmly believe they are liars and con artists, probably using this "company" to milk investors. I will maintain that belief until they do anything beyond web design.

I wouldn't hold my breath.

Good to know - thanks Grizzly.

Have you guys ever seen this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=66ebBq_Fkfo

http://www.acesim.com/main.html

This DEFINATELY takes it to the next level... and beyond.

Yes, I think it is in this thread a little farther up. ehehehe, getting kinda long so I dont remember how far. I looked at it fairly close one time and it requires the "bearings" that some guy was selling. Some kind of special ones.
Its just cool though. I'd like to try one.

Made another panel today. Using the A-Pac axis and a few more buttons. The knob is from a window air conditioner. It acts like a rudder to turn the plane when you are taxiing. It keeps the pilots from using the hunky rudder pedals. Later I plan on making the parking brake and pushback buttons, toggle switches that activate the lights right above them. For now, good ol radio shack momentary pushbuttons will work.

I hope everyone had a great x-mas!
Santa dropped off a couple of toys, allowing me to complete the latest addition to my pit.

As I've mentioned in previous posts, I've been working on a dual throttle quadrant design, to compliment the new start-up procedure.
I'm finally finished with it and thought some pics would be in order.


It's using 60mm slide pots, interfaced to a Hagstrom KEAD6 board.
The stops are determined by the location of the side plates and the tension and idle detents are accomplished by using spring plungers mounted just above the hinge pin.


TOP VIEW



SIDE VIEW



BOTTOM VIEW



WIRED UP

I've also been working on a custom collective.
(It's not quite done yet but what the hell.... I'm on a roll. )
It will be wired up using the main board from a Cougar throttle, plus an X-Amp to boost the main pot's resolution.


collective

Last one....

I've also been working on re-fitting an old army Gentex SPH-4 helicopter helmet, to work with a PC soundcard.

Originally, I didn't like the idea of someone else's used helmet but I just couldn't find anything else that I liked as well. So, I found one cheap on E-bay because it was mis-listed and gutted it, sand blasted it, re-painted it, and replaced the insides. Then, I pulled the military speakers and drilled out the old mic wiring and sacrificed a Sennheiser PC-160 headset to replace it all with. The new mic was epoxyed to the back of the old one, so I could still use the boom.


My next purchase is going to be a TIR setup. So, I still have to re-fit the vector clip to it. Hopefully, I can remove the clear shield and run it under the glareshield guard and through it's center adjustment slot.