Hi guys,

so, thanks to your help, I have my first panel started with switches that actually work in EECH and Lockon.
I was stubborn, and bought the cheaper card - the Ultimarc A-PAC. I bought my lexan at Home Depot, bought a 1/2 inch "glass bit" for my drill at the local hardware store, drilled some holes and wired a couple of switches.
I was determined to get on/off toggle switches working, but I didn't want to wire a circuit, and I didn't want to physically convert all my toggles to momentaries (http://www.simpits.org/engineering/Toggle_Moment_Conv/TogToMoment1.html),
so (being a programmer), I figured I might be able to do it in software.
Well, after fighting with DirectInput code last night and today, I finally got it to read the joystick presses (listener, not polling), and tried it out in EECH and Lockon.

Both failed to get my keystrokes.

EECH looked directly at the joystick, and used the default button assignments. Lockon could see the keys in the mission editor, but not once the game loaded up.

So, I was ticked off, and I'm searching articles, and finding other people with the same problem, etc, etc.

Then I stumbled across "AutoHotKey". It's an open source utility, with a nice installer, that does exactly what I want!
http://www.autohotkey.com/

You just create a text file like this:

2Joy1::
SendRaw f
KeyWait 2Joy1
SendRaw f

Save it as an .ahk file, and run it.

And it intercepts joystick 2, button 1. Sends an 'f' key when I flip the toggle up (closed circuit), and sends an 'f' when I flip it down.

Tested in EECH and Lockon and it works. Sweet!

Do you see any possible problems with this approach?

Anyways, I'm happy.

Cheers,
LP

Sweet !!! Pics, Pics, Pics..!!!!!!!

I dont really understand what you did, but do your toggles work? I guess I need to understand what happens when you "close" the toggle, then "open" it again. How does it read the "open" action from the toggle. Seems like it is two different things. Unless you are using momentary toggles? Exactly what type of toggle is it? SPST, SPDT?
That proggie looks like a nice, correction, real nice find. Looking forward to seeing some more usability ideas from you.

Do you have to program it for each game?

Sorry, panel is not pic worthy yet. But soon.

Yes, my SPST toggle switches work (they are not momentary). When you close the toggle, it does the "SendRaw f". The KeyWait tells it to wait for the button state to change. So when you open the toggle it runs the next command (the second SendRaw f). It is two different things, but it can tell based on the change in state from on to off. You have the A-PAC right? Try it out.

I haven't tried different key maps for different games yet, but it looks like it is possible with the #IfWinActive flag. Once I test it, I will let you know if it works. The help system is pretty good, and there is a lot of things you can do. You can send multiple key presses on open and on close.

Happy building!,
LP

Can make a little readme for the EECH assignment process? This is really excellent work LP

But pics when in the building stages are priceless!! Take them and post them all together. The building stage is invaluable...

Moved AutoHotKey tutorial to new thread, since not all pit builders will be interested, and some others may be interested.

LP

Do you all use a regular soldering iron for soldering your wires to your switches? With smaller tips?

Anyone tried a "cold" soldering iron for this task? I have one, but I haven't used it yet.
( http://www.thinkgeek.com/gadgets/tools/69d3/ )

Any soldering tips are appreciated.

Thanks,
LP

I just a regular one and dont really have any tips. Squeeze the trigger and drop a dab on it. I never gave it much thought, sorry.

Lazer - It really depends on the size of the switch, the guage of the wire, and the proximity to circuitry. I use different irons, for different jobs.

- If it's a beefy toggle switch and you're running power thru it (so the wire is a bit heavier, too), I will use a soldering gun. Like KC said, squeeze the trigger and go.
I'll also use a gun to tin my wires. (Mostly, because of the speed and convienience.)
- If it's a more delicate switch and your running smaller than say 20 guage wire, I'll use a standard pencil tip iron. Any "middle of the pack" Radio Shack iron will do.
I also use this when soldering my I/O. (D-sub connectors, plugs, jacks, etc.)
- If I'm working on a PCB, I use a good quality Metcal iron, designed for circuit repair.

Honestly, the standard pencil tip is your best "all around" solution. It can do the heavier stuff. It just takes a little longer and it's not as convienient.
It works best with most standard switches, connectors, and signal gauge wiring and won't cook the delicate stuff. (Like the gun can do, if you're not careful.)
And you can do board work with it, too. It shouldn't damage the sensitive circuits like a gun can do, but it's a bit more clumsy to use.

As far as those cold soldering irons, I don't recommend them. Not only is the tip cold but most of the time, so is the solder joint!
Besides, they don't really solder....they arc weld. They're cool in a pinch and for things like autos and house wiring, where the signal quality doesn't matter so much.

Just remember....Keep the tip clean, pre-tin your wires, make it quick, and flux, flux, flux.

Thanks GrizzlyT - I think I will pick up a soldering gun.

I know this thread is nothing to do with us rotor head's but as sim pit builder's i thought this might be of interest to ya..

DFDT Cockpit Project