Started doing some research into the motion sim thing.

Here are couple of interesting links:

If you live near the Netherlands, you can order "the Rock 'n Ride" for 800 euros:
http://shop.rightthing.nl/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=17

It appears to just take direct input from the joystick. But it has 60 degrees of bank!!

Here's an old review:
http://www.combatsim.com/memb123/archive/htm/htm_arc4/rocknr.htm

animated gif:
http://forum.rscnet.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=394032&d=1159681516

Might find one cheaper on E-bay.


I also found the "JoyRider". It's not a powered solution from what I can understand -- you move a control arm which turns the cockpit inside a gimbal frame, and these inputs are also sent to a joystick mounted underneath.

Here are some photos based on the design:
http://www.acesim.com/ready.html

More info about the design:
http://www.acesim.com/chapter2.html

Here are the plans for $15:
http://www.acesim.com/plans.html

Probably not good for a chopper sim, but interesting none the less, IMHO. And it's giving me lots of ideas!

Hope I'm not getting too off-topic from what you guys planned...


Cheers,
LP

I get the Lexan from the Depot and its already 8.5 x 11. You can make nice rounded edges with a file or sander. I have a little orbital hand sander that i use for finishing.
Remember, keep it simple. Just make your panel to whatever size you can buy.
Dont forget the A-pac I use is not assignable. OK for MSFS, but not for other games. Probably be OK for BS but not sure as I dont know the specs on BS> I-Pac is the assignable one. Just wanted to make sure you knew the diff. I actually ordered the A-pac by mistake. Should have got the I-Pac. But it will work fine for MSFS stuff. Just not EECH.


heck no. I get i see every time I see a new site. Keep 'em coming.

Found an article that shows one way to physically make an on/off switch into a momentary switch:
http://forum.rscnet.org/showthread.php?t=247647

I also found some electronics discussion about using on/off toggle switch with the A-Pac:
http://electro4um.com/about7509-asc.html
http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=13598&page=67

monostable multivibrators? wtf?

Can someone please summarize this for me? Are they saying there is a chip that we could attach to the toggle switch to make it a momentary?
How much do these chips cost?

This article makes a bit more sense, but there are too many diagrams for me to deal with.
http://news.elektroda.net/-vp252696.html

If these chips are inexpensive, it's making the A-PAC look more appealing.

Cheers,
LP

Well, I am factoring in the time it takes me to read all this, figure it out and then locate the parts, then build it. I dont know what you make per hour, but i think that an extra $20 for a device that allows toggles and is programmable is worth it. Thats my intital thoughts. I dont really want to be a electronics wiz or switch builder.

Whats wrong with the Plazma MM2 unit? 59.00?

I think I wouldnt mind throwing a diode in there and then making a breakout board. It seems more plug and play to me.
Sure, you could do alot of wiring and spend alot of time on building, instead of programming.
Dont forget the A-pac doesnt allow programming. I'd move right past it to the I-pac. Unless you can set the buttons inside the game like MSFS.
Just my opinion. It might be easy to contstruct, dont know until you try. Guess we need a test-pilot. You're on !

Still here but swamped in work and not too motivated to work on EECH.. wonder what's that EECH2 thing is about too.. however I must not let all the work DD did go to waste so I'll see to get off my arse soonish

Ok, I'm a EE idiot - but I've rewired a set of CH Pro Pedals, installed DPDT switches and made them gameport and USB switchable along with my own cables and modded my Cougar - so I'm dangerous with a soldering iron

What do the diodes do?

I'm itching to build my first panel right now.

They go on the matrix type encoder boards. What they actually do, i dont know. Read up just a bit on this page on the Griz post and there is some info and a pretty good explaination. Also might be some earlier in this thread.
If you choose a matrix type encoder board, you will use them if in matrix mode. If in direct, you wont use them. If you use something like the Hagstrom, you wont need to wire them in. I didnt use any with the A-pac.
The Plazma board is looking so good I think I am going to learn to solder them in. I dont think they cost much.
Need to find out if the Plazma can be used with programmable software though. Otherwise they wont work with EECH. I am intending to give them a contact tommorrow.
Have to read further and check out this keyboard program available on their site. Might work.
From the beta innovations forum:
@ Retro, no worries.

Blastman - This might provide more insight (and a little healthy debate) into blocking diodes and switch ghosting, in a matrix setup.

diode debate

(BTW - My personal experiences force me to side with the "diodes needed" group. )

Heres something more from the A-pac board. When it shows up in the game controllers menu, it is two separate gamepads. That means you have 4 axis available. Up/down and left/right. On each side of the board. Gamepad 1 and gamepad 2.
So after some consultation on what type of "pot" to use, (Radio shack $3.95) I hooked one of the axis up to the gamepad 2, left/right side. No real wiring skills necesary. The A-pac came with the capacitor and there is picture on their site on how to wire it. Simple. It works perfect.
You can imagine the possibilities. Your own rudder pedals, collective or joystick. Let your imagination be your guide. My purpose at the moment is for a trim wheel(elevator trim) for the fixed wing sims. Also, for flying the big heavies in MSFS, they use a small wheel in the cockpit to turn the plane while on the ground instead of rudder pedals.
These extra axis will work perfect for those things. And in EECH, a homebuilt collective is in order. Just take some plywood and some PVC, and .........

So, if choosing a USB board, I think one with joystick axis is a for sure.

KC: what thickness of Lexan is good for mounting switches, buttons?

Thanks,
LP