Ideally for AXIS use more short cable possible. And/or use shield cables, like these for microphones.

No problem in use HALL and pots in same USB controller, both work as voltage divider.

In one CH PRO Pedal that I rewired to USB (w/Mjoy8 Mercury) I use HALL sensor for rudder axis, and original CH pots for toe brakes. Work fine.

Sokol1

actually my quuestion was: Is it possible (by usting shielded cabling) to house the BU card in the joystick and connect the throtthe to it with a multi stranded cable (as the oldd school controllers) or i have to buy a card for each piece?
If yes can use (just as example) a 2 meter cable between the throttle controls and the BU housed in the joystick base?

I have done some progress in the new housing for the controls and i will post some pictures of the CAD drawings soon.

Yes, I usually re-use old gameport cables and your DB15 connector - since they have many internal wires (up to 15) and local market don offer similar one - for throttle button matrix.

For (throttle) axis I use shield cable when possible.

Note: In F16FLCS+TQS is possible hook throttle (TQS) into joystick base using just one original gameport cable.

For Suncon SFS you need two cables since they have more buttons (originally 19 buttons + 2 axis), unless find cable with ~20 internal wires.



Of course.

Considerations: Actually Windows recognize up to 8 axis, 32 buttons and (1) HAT.
Using one USB controller inside each (joystick, throttle..) you overcome this limit (G940 Warthog approach), and can use additional axis for rudder pedal, trim wheels, buttons for additional panels...

CON - Old games(1) don't recognize more than one USB controller, so if you still playing Red Baron...

(1)COTS HOTAS overcome this with programing software.

Sokol1

I actually i took for granted to build an "old school" controller that windows whould have seen as a single unit,
In fact one of the reason that is making me using a microjoystik and a potentiometer ant elev instead of some of the switches, is to match the number of buttons that i can use by sharing somehohw the TQS cabling scheme without having unusable buttons in the SFS (wich has a lot mose switches that the TQS, with this scheme I still have availble buttons that TQS is not using and i can add them on the TQS base.

This is my control connection comparison for the axis inputs between the throttles:

Input on Card -> TQS -> SFS
3 -> throttle -> Throttle (Right lever)
4 -> ANT range -> Throttle (Left lever)
7 -> ANT elev -> ANT elev on left handle
6 and 7 -> Mini joy (replaces eraserhead) -> mini joy (replaces right hat on right handle)

Connection will be installed on the base of the switch for the external rudder (din or mini din connector).

This is the button matrix comparison (most of you will find this familiar, thank you guys, you made my work a lot simplier):

Input on card -> TQS -> SFS
19 - 22 -> front 4 way switch -> Left hat on the right handle
23 - 24 -> speedbrake -> speedbrake on right handle
25 - 26 -> dogfight switch -> Hat rocker
27 - 28 -> buttons on base -> Boat rocker
29 - 30 -> buttons on base -> tent rocker
31 -> mini joy button -> Pinkie switch on left lever
32 -> ANT range button -> red button on left lever

Ok this is my first operative update, BU0836 arrived and tested with pot because I'm still waiting for the hall sensors.
ANT elev switch has been removed from suncom trottle and I just discovered that the switch was actually a fake potentiometer so no modificarion are needed to fit a pot in place of the switch.... Big horray!

I installed the microjoystick in place of the hat of the right handle as you can see in the pictures (sorry for the bad quality but i had only my mobile phone to take them), the "hat" is actually a spare GP2X thumb support that i had laying around i think is good looking enough. let me know what do you think of this first step.

Bluedeath,

See this F16FLCS+TQS=BU0836 USB conversion:

http://translate.googleusercontent.com/t...LKHulRG62h53mYg

Sokol1

Thanks for the link it looks easier that i tought. I tried stiffer springs on the FLCS axis gimbals it first i was happy beacause they gave me the same resistance of the F-22 but i had to remove them when i noticed that the gimbals rails were twisted when the lever was at extreme positons so i had to swith back to the original springs + some hard rubber bands to reach a compromise. Im still waiting for the hall sensors and the upgrade parts to be delivered.

BTW if somoone of you has a TM X- fighter to sell or parts of it please let me know.

Sorry for the lack of update, I'm still waiting for the hall sensors (it seems that Italian customs officers are having in evaluating how much i owe them for 12$ of real walue), I conneted the FLCS handle to the base of an old fanatec joystick (german design, ironically had a CH combatstick knockoff handle but i really dont like it too much), while still mmade of plastic plastic the gimbals on this base are much better. Im working on the new pcbs for the FLCS handle and the talon also i'll place the designs if someone is interested. plese let me know.

Update (I'll post the photo of the joystick later i hope). I was able to finish the F16 joystick unfornutalely the 15° degree selectable orientation had to go due to the fact that plasic was too fragile to do it in a safe way without the risk of snapping the neck of the stick ( i hope I can do that on the Suncom stick otherwise I'll make it to 15 degree fixed).

Splash one bandit parts (paddle and hat 2) have been fitted and they are a dream that came true (especially the paddle), the new base make all the think look like a plastic version of the cougar (better than original FLCS base anyway).

Since thoose frakking sensor didnt arrive yet i had to go with 100k B pots that were already in the base and i must say that for the time being Im pretty much satisfied with them, no spiking and excellent response.

IS there someone who has the pcb designs for the Suncom stick handle? Im working on custom made hat switches but im afraid that they will not fit the handle so i need a "plan B"

Here one - but diode matrix is for Mjoy16 (8x8), need adjust to use with BU0836 (6x6).

http://www.flightsim.com/vbfs/showthread.php?209926-Suncom-F-15-and-SFS-throttle-USB-remake

Sokol1