Let me just echo the chorus....I loved watching this build, too!
With all the helos, fast movers, big tins, and racers, it was nice to see something fresh.
(Especially one so well done!)

We (I) would love to see the progress you've made!

Hi PropNut, I don't have any CAD drawings but you are welcome to anything I can send your way that may be useful. I can give you measurements etc of anything you see that you like. I have scale images of the switch panels which may be handy, I'll post them later on.

Attached timber pieces on the edges using biscuit jointer.









Once the two sides are finished they can be attached together using the separate top panels.

Side laying flat then glue each panel into position.




With all the panels in place glue the other side on and check all joints.

Support piece for the end.



Cut out sections close to line and using a trimming router bit and a timber guide (temporary nail onto piece) its easy to get accurate cuts (or use a CNC router if you're really lucky)




This gives the effect of a casting with web cut-outs.


Fitted into position to strengthen the rear

Nice shop you have there Choowy.

Choowy...nice build pictures there and thanks for sharing those.

Any specific reason you went with MDF instead of plywood? Around my location there is only about a $5 difference in 8x4 MDF 1/2" thick and plywood in similar size thickness and personally I could get away with less glue and router use but that is just my thought.

I guess I am asking if using the MDF was easier to work with compared to the standard plywood for this build?

Reschke, I cannot answer for Choowy but I can say that MDF is very easy to router and shape. Much easier than standard CDX plywood. We often use it for custom (paintable) base, chair rail, door, and crown molding. Yet it is still very strong and long lasting.

Hi Reschke, yes as PropNut says it is easy to shape and machine. It also has a better surface finish and there's no end grain either to fill unless you use the more expensive ply.

Mine didn't need to be overly strong structurally and 12mm wasn't as expensive as ply.

I did use ply on the seat which you'll see later on.

Thanks Propnut, the workshop has undergone some more improvements lately and is getting close to a real man-cave.

Yes, it is relatively strong. As long as the loads run parallel to the boards. (If that makes sense.)
Also, it is vulnerable to moisture until sealed.

And most importantly, when working with MDF wear mask, or even better, a respirator. MDF dust is not good for your lungs - you don't just breathe in wood dust, but also chemicals, i.e. glue, formaldhyde, among other things. If your router sander accommodates a vacuum hose, use it. You will have a lot less to clean in your shop.

Ahhh come on Monster, I have been working with MDF for years with no side...(COUGH COUGH) ugh..sorry...with no (COUGH COUGH GLARG!)...sorry again, with no side effects at all.

As to moisture, this is true if it gets soaked. But you would always want to paint/seal it in some way regardless....raw MDF is ugly

I have several fixtures in the shop, a production cabinet shop, that are made of raw MDF that have been working fine for years, even here in humid mid-Michigan. Course, if you live in jungle humidity, I would seal it as soon as possible.