Thanks for the support guys, I'm sorry I don't have detailed drawings but I'm happy to provide measurements if you need anything.

I decided to make my own throttle which in hindsight may have been a little weird as they make some very nice ones but I was firmly in DIY mode at that stage.


I made up a prototype first just to see how things felt. I had looked a a few in stores to get the sizing.



From that I used pine (easy to work and shape) to rough out a shape. I added an extra piece on the top to allow room to fit the switches.



Using a wood rasp shape the corners and get the size right. Finish wasn't important here yet as it was going to have automotive filler applied .





I added ice cream sticks as an easy way of layering up areas that were too low. It was still a in two halves as this stage as I needed to be able to cut access holes internally to run the cables through. It was later glued together.



Filler applied to any areas that need it.



Primer applied ready for finishing coat.


Switch plate to house two momentary and one rocker. Aluminium plate used.


Final finish and assembled.

Nice job on the grip.

Watched your build at Frugals too.

OMG... It was brilliant and original and now the GRIP???? OMG the best idea to make a home made grip ever. I was toying in my head about casting aluminum, or use epoxy putty! I couldn't see the WOOD for the trees! Pun intended!

S-T-U-N-N-I-N-G!!! AWESOME!!!

Do you know what you just did????? You just helped me realize how to build my own dual throttles. It was there all the time, and I couldn't see it! So easy! So graaaand!!

CPR! CPR!!!

DEFIBRILATING!!!

I was thinking - not trying to tell you how to run things, you do just great - you obviously won't be able to do an eyefinity setup.

What would really take the cake, would be if you could have one central screen, and 2 screens on either side acting as windows, with their view locked at 3 and 9o'clock. And use TrackIR or any other panning utility. I reckon it would be great to have even more screens to cover as much of the front as possible. The bezels of the monitors would actually be no issue; they would look like the frame of the canopy.

I don't think there is an app like that though, that allows the user to select which views to be displayed for each screen.

Hi JAMF, thanks, nice to hear from you again. Cheers Ghost, its a great site to post here.

aRKOM glad I can provide an alternative for you. One thing on my throttle that is poor is I didn't use a great brand of spray and it needs a little makeover. Otherwise it seems a pretty nice alternative to metal. It does have a steel shaft which you will see later.

Yes your right about the displays, that would be very nice. Back at the old thread people were talking about curved screens, fresnel lenses and projector screens. Again for me it was about getting something that I would actually finish and i chose the more basic approach with the display. Its still effective though but there are other options now. The game is a little restrictive also in supported resolutions. MWLL is another story, lots of potential there.

Have you tried Plasti Dip pray?

No I haven't ever heard of it. Looks like a great product, interesting.

My next door neighbour (who built a scale 767 cockpit in his house with all the controls functional)




suggested using Araldite ( 2 part epoxy glue) and heat it up so its quite liquid then paint it on and it sets like a plastic coating.

I'll respray with a better quality paint.

The top of the throttle case has a slot cut into the end of two pieces to allow a sliding plastic tongue. Glue the two pieces together before drilling a hole at each end and then cut out the slot.







The throttle has a 19mm steel tube attached at the base to an angled bracket with a nyloc nut to stop it coming loose. The cabling also passes through the tube and out an access hole in the side.





I used an old Gravis Eliminator game pad for the controller after having issues with a cheaper 2 axis joystick. The main control switches on the joystick connect directly to where the original gamepad switches were on the circuit board.




Finished product.

Hole for the door marked out.



Door cut out roughly, using the same method to trim, fix a temporary guide around the outside of the opening. I think I may have laid the unit over to do this.




Making sure the seat sits in the right spot.




I added a door surround to give the look of a steel reinforced fitting.




Bolts cut down and added.



Fitted internally and painted.