Is there a possibility of getting any pictures of your findings Cason? That could really help. That could be a step we use to setting up a repair guide based on your finding.

Wow that you be great if it is true. A dedicated profiler software for the G940 would be ideal it is a shame that Logitech would release a flagship gaming product but limit its use to the entry level abilities of its current Profiler software.

I'll see what I can do for posting picture of the throttle tear-apart. I didn't think to take any while I was in "surgery".

First, I don't recommend unless you've had some experience tearing down consumer electronics.

If you are planing on sending this in to Logitech for a RMA return, DON"T OPEN THE ENCLOSURE. I left enough scuff marks and dings under the rubber feet to alert them that I voided the warranty.

It is held together with screws from the bottom and then the rubber feat overlap the two parts. Don't bother with the hex screws on the top. You'll have to peel off the rubber feet gently so that they don't tear and also to preserve as much of the 3M adhesive thats on the back of them. Once the bottom enclosure is off you'll see a thick wire coming out of the base of the right throttle stem that connects to what looks like a white 10pin snap connector onto the green circuit board. There is a silver philips head screw with a wide head to hold the wire down between two posts. I found that removing that silver screw allowed enough slack in the cable so as not to pull on the snap connector. What this will do as far as the cable rubbing on other internal areas of the throttle assembly I can't say. This was my fix. But like I said before...better to return it. I don't want to be black listed on SimHQ for giving out bad advice

I used to do the internal mechanical designs for keyboards for major computer accessory manufacturers. What this looks like is Logitech did the external design and interface, and as almost always the case now-a-days, had an OEM party in China do the internal detail design and QA.

I think I will reconsider getting the Logitech G940 after hearing about their build quality and weak profiler.

I know most people will look at the new Saitek X65F as an alternative, but I thought I would share my experience. The Saitek sticks seem innovative and have a good look and feel, but I don't trust their build quality.

I should have realized when I first got my X52 Pro that I would have been better sending it back, but I didn't want to go through the hassle and I wasn't using it enough at the time to realize the full extent of its problems.

At first, I just thought the "auto-calibration" was garbage but it would work some of the time after reconnecting the USB connection. I figured the stick couldn't be so complicated that it would intermittently crop up with the same errors unless there were bugs in the controller board. I was hoping drivers would fix it, but I have been through multiple OSes (as well as 32 and 64 bit) and the Saitek has always had the same issues.

After noticing one of the colored LEDs was dead and that most of the axises were too sensitive (they would register less than a half percent movement back and forth when nothing was moving physically), I decided I would just open the casing to see if I could look for a loose connection or re-adjust some of the sensors.

The only thing I accomplished was voiding the warranty. I did find two partially loose connectors but that didn't help anything. The throttle axis still doesn't go below 8% until I reconnect the USB on every startup. The axises are jumpy, and at certain throttle positions, the other axises randomly spike to 100%. The MFD often displays incorrect information. Every game is different but I often get random button presses. On LOMAC 1.02, I would get constant Button 34 and up button presses and even though those are MFD-only buttons, they would prevent me from assigning my controls.

I know I could be an isolated case and it was my own fault for not checking the full functioning of the stick and getting a replacement from the very start. It was my first flight stick purchase and I will be more cautious in the future, but is there a company where you don't hear about bad build quality? CH or Thrustmaster I suppose.

First, let me tell you that an updated version of Logitech Gaming Software will probably be released within the next week. When it is available for download, I will post a complete update on all the changes.

Specific to this thread, the update includes the ability to adjust the responsiveness of the throttles, rotaries and trims. Our original settings were not adjustable, and in some cases were too conservative. This resulted in response delays in the throttles and other negative effects. You will now be able to tune the response.

We are looking into the behavior in Wings of Prey, and have reached out to their development team as well.

I think we've addressed most of the issues brought up in this forum with the latest update.

HOLY COW.....
THX Mark!!!! It's been a Looonnnnnngggggg time since you've popped up anywhere but I haven't checked the logi forums today (or the last 3 days to be honest). If what is posted there by Charles is correct these are an "interim" fix and not the 6.0 version, but correct me if I'm wrong.

Great news.

To top it off, a new firmware drop that would include detents for the rotaries would also be welcome

any news about the new patch and the problem?

Well, the patch hasn't solved anything.

I got my replacement a month ago and so far it has worked normally. I don't have much faith in it and I'm searching for signs of it being another fowl piece, but as of now it's ok.

thats too bad.

but glag you got one that work pretty well.
I have to tell my friend to give up G940 he was looking for this one. sigh

Thank you so much guys. Mine is being returned to Amazon today.

Besides your reports there are many refurb units on ebay already,
this is a very alarming sign this early in the product's history.

Furthermore, Logitech implementation in WOP sucks, as i already
determined with my 3D Pro joystick.

WOW!

Thank you all for posting this info on the G940..

I was starting to think I was going crazy!!

Like most of you I too have that R1 and R2 'noise' problem when I move the main throttle..

I also have a big 'noise' spike with the rudder peddels that makes IL-2 planes jump like crasy in YAW..

Prior to the G940 I had CH throttle and rudders and a MSFFB2 joystick..

I was very happy with that setup..

The only reason I got the G940 was for the split throttle that is supose to be supported in the IL-2 4.10 update..

That and I didnt think my MSFFB2 would last for ever, even though I have no problems with it but I thought I had better start looking for a replacment just encase it went belly up..

I will admit that the CH rudders also exhibited the same sort of 'noise' from time to time, but nothing as frequent or as large as the 'noise' spike with the G940 rudders..

And if any of the Logitech reps care to know I have upgraded to the latest firm ware, and I have tried several differnt 'hysteresis' settings and none of them fix the problems.. I even tried max settings (256?) and the problem is still there..

I say 'if' any of them care in that looking at this thread it seems like they have vanished since the last FW release that they said would fix these problems..

Which tells me there will be no fix for this problem

So at this point the only options we have are..

1) RMA it and hope you get a newer one that may have fixxed this problem
2) Try and fix the problem yourself

As for options 2, I was reading what Casons said about the short cabling, ie.



Has anyone else tried this?

Has any of the Logitec reps had anything to say about this?

In that before I toss this thing in the trash I was thinking of trying this fix..

But I don't want to waste any more time or money on this thing than I allready have!

Otherwise it is back to my 8 yo MSFFB2 stick and CH throttle and maybe a new CH rudder..

It is sad when you think you spend $300 large on a top of the line joystick only to find out a $20 joystick from Walmart works better.

There is a third option GSENN...

Have you contacted them about your defective piece so you can get a new one?

I had to do that...

ugh, it still annoys me

That is actully option 1 of my 2 options, i.e.

1) RMA it and hope you get a newer one that may have fixxed this problem
2) Try and fix the problem yourself

And no I have not contacted them..

After months of blaiming myself for all this ham fisted joystick jerking I stop blaiming myself and took a closer look..

At which time I noticed all the R1 and R2 noise associated with the movment of the throttle.. And the big noise spike on the rudders..

After doing that is when I did the google search on G940 issues and found this thread..

The problem with returing it for a new one is it does not fix the problem..

In that I have had this problem since day one new out of the box..

It just got/gets worse with time/usage..

So getting a new one just kicks the can down the road, read does not fix the problem


But did it fix the problem?

Or is it there and just not as noticable..

And with time it will become more noticable..

Thus my kick the can analogy

First off, my G940 is out of warranty so I thought I'd take a shot at fixing it.

I found this thread after I noticed my R1/R2 rotaries started acking up. Problem was also affecting the 3 position Mode switch. Cason's instructions are spot on. Good work on spotting that issue! You could definitely see the 10 pin connector flex when the throttle was pulled to the idle state. Remove the screw and no more issues!

Here's a couple of things to consider when dissembling/reassembling:

- Have a good light source and a good quality small phillips screw driver
- Don't tear the rubber feet completely off the backing plate - just from over the drill holes
- There are 11 screws you'll need to remove. 2 of them are in the little recesses
- When reassembling, compress the spring almost all the way. The anchor will be easier to seat. Teeth up!
- You can verify that the anchor is seated correctly with the backing plate reinstalled. You'll be able to see a little "tooth" in the base plate. This tooth moves back and forth in a slot when the friction wheel is turned.

Here's an image for ya:



Good Luck!

-thud

Just noticed the issue with the R2 in FSX today. Was going to RMA it, but frankly that looks like a better idea. Next project, fixing the FF "deadzone"

Thanks for the heads up!

eeeeeeeeeeeyup, that's the issue, the cord being pulled.

I removed the screw, and the spiking is much less pronounced. The bigger issue here is that this will probably be only a temp fix, as the use of incredibly stiff wire is the root cause of the issue.

I think I'll stick to Logitech keyboards and mice.

Hi to all...just to share that i managed to fix R1 wheel spike problem...Here are pictures of my exploit...






If you wish to donate some currency to me, I would gladly accept..
https://www.paypal.com/hr/cgi-bin/webscr...976060a4ab6ee74

Contact me on PM if you need more info...

As I feared, the pots are rubbish and are failing already.

If I remember the spec correctly, the stick uses pressure sensors but the throttles use regular pots - a major design flaw IMHO.

Get a refund for a defective product and look around for something else, unless they come up with a permanent fix.

--TangoShadow