So I finally started flying with a squadron and on my first flight I start getting the problemsG everytime I throttle up the prop pitch goes to 7%. In G940 terms, the value of the left thrttle is inversly proportional to my R1 wheel. After redearching online at the Logitech boa3rds I find that it is a common problem and that Logitech may have taken QA shortcuts when manufacturing the throttles. It's been a couple of days and they haven't returned my email.

Anyomne else have similar trouble?

HI, I also have a G940 system and I have the same issues with the R1 and R2 wheel. I don't know if this is a G940 problem as in Wings of Prey the weels work fine.

Logitech must provide us with better tools I think. Also a working program for the collor of the buttons of the throttle I am still waiting for. There is a small demoprogram but it's crap.

That's what I think. I find that the throttle problems can be noticed using the windows controller panel in the control panel.

It effects all programs.

I called them today and they had the nerve to try to convince me that the rotaries were only there for calibration. These guys are no good.

UPDATE: After prying into customer support, I got my answer. The product is DEFECTIVE and I warrant a replacement.

There are many in my shoes, and I'm afraid there will be many more.

what a shame, i am planing to buy new HOTAS, looks like G940 is out of the question then

That is a bummer. That is one thing that sort of sucks about the review process. We get the product as it comes off the line, and we write the review - but there is no way to tell about longevity issues (for hardware at least). For software..we can speculate on how much support there will be..or see the plug-ins for campaigns or missions or user support..but with hardware - well, only a vast user base and time and use will tell.

If what you are saying is widespread, I'll be glad that I didn't buy a G940. I'm still not convinced I want an X65F yet either..until I get some stick time with one. I'm still using my X52, and if it broke right now I might even just go with the X52 Pro or something..

Thanks for the info..keep us updated!

BeachAV8R

Well, choice for you might be slightly more straight forward than it is for me.
I have X52 pro atm, but its not working correctly, in fact, it started misbehaving month after i got it, and that was after i bought X52 which broke down in 2 days, then replacement arrived unusable on arrival, and then Saitek replaced it with x52 pro that i have now. So Saitek will need to do loads of convincing in my case for me to consider any of their products, i was so pissed off with Saitek that i got Logitech G11 keyboard to replace Saitek eclipse, although keyboard was working fine, but i just did not want to use their product that essential for pc usage, i have it as backup now.

To give Saitek huge price tag for their X65 i would have to win lottery and not care about �300, or become totally delirious lol

I will cry the day my X45 gives up. Bought it secondhand off eBay, had it for about five years now, no problems.

I will probably go CH next time.

pfunk

I sent my joystick system in yesterday via UPS prepaid label they sent me, and I should be expecting a replacement soon. They have recieved my package.

I too am having that problem with my G940, but only in WoP. In FSX and RoF everything works perfectly, right now. I have only had this stick for about 6 weeks now.
I have noticed slight spiking in R1 which I use as radiator in RoF. Flying the Pfalz D.IIIa for example, I will see the radiator flap handle moving a little. I can move the R1 wheel some and it will be fine for a while, then start doing it again. I have also noticed a connection between this happening when using the left throttle lever. LOL, the R1 wheel isn't even on the left throttle, but moving the left lever seems to be connected to the spiking of the R1 wheel.
Neither R1 or the left throttle have ever kept their calibration in WoP though. They both go way way off after a few minutes of use. At least they do still work correctly in RoF and FSX (except for the spiking of R1).

What is going on with QA as of the last few years? Nothing is worth a crap anymore.
Motherboards dying due to bad caps, G25's dying shortly within a couple years, USB hubs dying after a year or two, now less than two month old joystick (a pretty expensive one at that) already showing signs of problem.

I'm not going to send it back yet, but I suppose I better find the return information. I did register it when I installed the software, so that's good. Come to think about it, I believe the confirmation email I got from them has a support addy in it.

Oh well, my 9years old X45 was beginning to have minor spiking around center on the stick, but at least it does still work. So if need be I can use it and the Saitek pro pedals as back up.
It sucks that a $80.00 joystick will hold up for 9 years and thousands of hours of use, and a $300.00 joystick begins to fail after 6 weeeks.

TailFlamer, check to see if your problems ensue in the game controllers utility in the control panel. Click on the throttle and see if you can see the R1 spike when you manipulate the left throttle. Use it the same way you would in RoF.

Tell me what happens.

Nope, I couldn't get it to do it in Game Controllers > Throttle Properties. I.E, moving throttle has no effect on R1/R2.
I had checked this before, when having problems with WoP. I thought it may have been my throttle, but in GC it's all fine.
I do notice that BOTH Throttle travel indicators pause sometimes when moving the levers. They always starts again, but the left one does stop around the halfway point for a slit second. The right one is more towards the lower end of the range where it stops. I have never noticed this happening before today. And they only do it sometimes. Most of the time they follow exactly my levers movements.
Really surprised to see this and clearly it shows my 6wk old throttle has something not exactly right about it.
In RoF this seems to have no adverse effect on my Mixture settings (i use left throttle for Mixture on planes that have it).
Nor in FSX does it effect the propeller pitch.
In WoP, this may explain why it loses calibration of the left throttle for propeller pitch though.

R1/R2 are rock steady and doesn't show spiking or anything weird when rotating the wheels. There is a 2-3 degree dead zone before the indicators begin to show movement from full. It has this at either stop end (top or bottom range limit shown in indicator).
No idea why in WoP R1 won't hold calibration for mixture.

Sorry I sounded so negative about todays products. But I do believe service life is a lot less than what was made 10+ years ago. I have had soooo many things fail that were not very old at all these last few years. I remember going to the store and coming home with a item you could rest assured would last for years to come, if treated well. I have a lot of junk 30+ years old that still works perfectly, where I have had to trash similar recently purchased items that didn't last 5 years.

I know the old saying, 'they don't build it like they used to', but that is a really OLD saying. Some truth to it, of course. Lately it really seems to have escalated in its meaning though.

Well hate to continue the bad news but my R1/R2 began flipping out in December. Called support and they said they'd never heard of this before but were quick with a replacement (plus new rudder and stick which is taking space in the closet). The replacement worked fine until last month. Now the Wheels are as useless as the mini-stick. So, don't get your hopes up too high even with the replacement.

Oh...and regarding checking this issue in the profiler. Initially, it won't be noticeable. But like a cancer it get's worse with time and eventually you will easily see spikes as you move the right throttle. Try moving the wheels close to but not quite at their top and aft stops, respectively. That is where the spikes were most pronounced on my 2 throttles.

I still have a long time left on my warranty, so I will hold out as long as I can before looking into service and returing mine for replacement. Maybe they will correct the problem soon and when I do get a replacement, it will not have this issue.

My hopes aren't actually that high for the replacement. I figure there was a QA step missed or shortcut which has lead to a series of bad joysticks.

.....absolute bullsh!t

Be aware that WoP is a crap flightSIm. It looks great but the controls lack.

I have a G940 system too and it works fine except in WoP. Also a shame that Logitech haven't updated fot a couple of months. It's a HOTAS that is still in development. My advice is to skip the profiler software and assign all the buttons and axis in het game itself

Copying a post from 1C forum made by MikkOwl



Original post here
http://forum.1cpublishing.eu/showpost.php?p=154666&postcount=69

The exact same thing happened to me where the R1 and R2 input was spiking every time I moved the throttles. This happened in IL-2 1946, WOE, and LOMAC. I debated taking it apart and seeing if there was something I could fix vs. sending it in for a return. Impatience won out and I removed the bottom enclosure only to find a glaring design flaw. The cable that sends data from the the R1 and R2 dials and attaches via a 10 pin connector to the circut board is too short and every time you move the throttles it pulls on the connector. The two dials are probably potentiometers and having the contacts in the connectors rub against each other repeatedly is going to cause problems. I removed a screw that holds the cable in place adding some slack and problem solved. I'd still suggest returning it to Logitech if you're having this problem.

If anyone from Logitech is reading this, please increase your cycle tests. People use the throttle far more than 10,000 cycles And come up with a better solution for internal cable management. Other than that, I love the system. I can't imagine going back to flight sims with out force feedback, rudder pedals, and split throttles.

Is there a possibility of getting any pictures of your findings Cason? That could really help. That could be a step we use to setting up a repair guide based on your finding.

Wow that you be great if it is true. A dedicated profiler software for the G940 would be ideal it is a shame that Logitech would release a flagship gaming product but limit its use to the entry level abilities of its current Profiler software.

I'll see what I can do for posting picture of the throttle tear-apart. I didn't think to take any while I was in "surgery".

First, I don't recommend unless you've had some experience tearing down consumer electronics.

If you are planing on sending this in to Logitech for a RMA return, DON"T OPEN THE ENCLOSURE. I left enough scuff marks and dings under the rubber feet to alert them that I voided the warranty.

It is held together with screws from the bottom and then the rubber feat overlap the two parts. Don't bother with the hex screws on the top. You'll have to peel off the rubber feet gently so that they don't tear and also to preserve as much of the 3M adhesive thats on the back of them. Once the bottom enclosure is off you'll see a thick wire coming out of the base of the right throttle stem that connects to what looks like a white 10pin snap connector onto the green circuit board. There is a silver philips head screw with a wide head to hold the wire down between two posts. I found that removing that silver screw allowed enough slack in the cable so as not to pull on the snap connector. What this will do as far as the cable rubbing on other internal areas of the throttle assembly I can't say. This was my fix. But like I said before...better to return it. I don't want to be black listed on SimHQ for giving out bad advice

I used to do the internal mechanical designs for keyboards for major computer accessory manufacturers. What this looks like is Logitech did the external design and interface, and as almost always the case now-a-days, had an OEM party in China do the internal detail design and QA.

I think I will reconsider getting the Logitech G940 after hearing about their build quality and weak profiler.

I know most people will look at the new Saitek X65F as an alternative, but I thought I would share my experience. The Saitek sticks seem innovative and have a good look and feel, but I don't trust their build quality.

I should have realized when I first got my X52 Pro that I would have been better sending it back, but I didn't want to go through the hassle and I wasn't using it enough at the time to realize the full extent of its problems.

At first, I just thought the "auto-calibration" was garbage but it would work some of the time after reconnecting the USB connection. I figured the stick couldn't be so complicated that it would intermittently crop up with the same errors unless there were bugs in the controller board. I was hoping drivers would fix it, but I have been through multiple OSes (as well as 32 and 64 bit) and the Saitek has always had the same issues.

After noticing one of the colored LEDs was dead and that most of the axises were too sensitive (they would register less than a half percent movement back and forth when nothing was moving physically), I decided I would just open the casing to see if I could look for a loose connection or re-adjust some of the sensors.

The only thing I accomplished was voiding the warranty. I did find two partially loose connectors but that didn't help anything. The throttle axis still doesn't go below 8% until I reconnect the USB on every startup. The axises are jumpy, and at certain throttle positions, the other axises randomly spike to 100%. The MFD often displays incorrect information. Every game is different but I often get random button presses. On LOMAC 1.02, I would get constant Button 34 and up button presses and even though those are MFD-only buttons, they would prevent me from assigning my controls.

I know I could be an isolated case and it was my own fault for not checking the full functioning of the stick and getting a replacement from the very start. It was my first flight stick purchase and I will be more cautious in the future, but is there a company where you don't hear about bad build quality? CH or Thrustmaster I suppose.

First, let me tell you that an updated version of Logitech Gaming Software will probably be released within the next week. When it is available for download, I will post a complete update on all the changes.

Specific to this thread, the update includes the ability to adjust the responsiveness of the throttles, rotaries and trims. Our original settings were not adjustable, and in some cases were too conservative. This resulted in response delays in the throttles and other negative effects. You will now be able to tune the response.

We are looking into the behavior in Wings of Prey, and have reached out to their development team as well.

I think we've addressed most of the issues brought up in this forum with the latest update.

HOLY COW.....
THX Mark!!!! It's been a Looonnnnnngggggg time since you've popped up anywhere but I haven't checked the logi forums today (or the last 3 days to be honest). If what is posted there by Charles is correct these are an "interim" fix and not the 6.0 version, but correct me if I'm wrong.

Great news.

To top it off, a new firmware drop that would include detents for the rotaries would also be welcome

any news about the new patch and the problem?

Well, the patch hasn't solved anything.

I got my replacement a month ago and so far it has worked normally. I don't have much faith in it and I'm searching for signs of it being another fowl piece, but as of now it's ok.

thats too bad.

but glag you got one that work pretty well.
I have to tell my friend to give up G940 he was looking for this one. sigh

Thank you so much guys. Mine is being returned to Amazon today.

Besides your reports there are many refurb units on ebay already,
this is a very alarming sign this early in the product's history.

Furthermore, Logitech implementation in WOP sucks, as i already
determined with my 3D Pro joystick.

WOW!

Thank you all for posting this info on the G940..

I was starting to think I was going crazy!!

Like most of you I too have that R1 and R2 'noise' problem when I move the main throttle..

I also have a big 'noise' spike with the rudder peddels that makes IL-2 planes jump like crasy in YAW..

Prior to the G940 I had CH throttle and rudders and a MSFFB2 joystick..

I was very happy with that setup..

The only reason I got the G940 was for the split throttle that is supose to be supported in the IL-2 4.10 update..

That and I didnt think my MSFFB2 would last for ever, even though I have no problems with it but I thought I had better start looking for a replacment just encase it went belly up..

I will admit that the CH rudders also exhibited the same sort of 'noise' from time to time, but nothing as frequent or as large as the 'noise' spike with the G940 rudders..

And if any of the Logitech reps care to know I have upgraded to the latest firm ware, and I have tried several differnt 'hysteresis' settings and none of them fix the problems.. I even tried max settings (256?) and the problem is still there..

I say 'if' any of them care in that looking at this thread it seems like they have vanished since the last FW release that they said would fix these problems..

Which tells me there will be no fix for this problem

So at this point the only options we have are..

1) RMA it and hope you get a newer one that may have fixxed this problem
2) Try and fix the problem yourself

As for options 2, I was reading what Casons said about the short cabling, ie.



Has anyone else tried this?

Has any of the Logitec reps had anything to say about this?

In that before I toss this thing in the trash I was thinking of trying this fix..

But I don't want to waste any more time or money on this thing than I allready have!

Otherwise it is back to my 8 yo MSFFB2 stick and CH throttle and maybe a new CH rudder..

It is sad when you think you spend $300 large on a top of the line joystick only to find out a $20 joystick from Walmart works better.

There is a third option GSENN...

Have you contacted them about your defective piece so you can get a new one?

I had to do that...

ugh, it still annoys me

That is actully option 1 of my 2 options, i.e.

1) RMA it and hope you get a newer one that may have fixxed this problem
2) Try and fix the problem yourself

And no I have not contacted them..

After months of blaiming myself for all this ham fisted joystick jerking I stop blaiming myself and took a closer look..

At which time I noticed all the R1 and R2 noise associated with the movment of the throttle.. And the big noise spike on the rudders..

After doing that is when I did the google search on G940 issues and found this thread..

The problem with returing it for a new one is it does not fix the problem..

In that I have had this problem since day one new out of the box..

It just got/gets worse with time/usage..

So getting a new one just kicks the can down the road, read does not fix the problem


But did it fix the problem?

Or is it there and just not as noticable..

And with time it will become more noticable..

Thus my kick the can analogy

First off, my G940 is out of warranty so I thought I'd take a shot at fixing it.

I found this thread after I noticed my R1/R2 rotaries started acking up. Problem was also affecting the 3 position Mode switch. Cason's instructions are spot on. Good work on spotting that issue! You could definitely see the 10 pin connector flex when the throttle was pulled to the idle state. Remove the screw and no more issues!

Here's a couple of things to consider when dissembling/reassembling:

- Have a good light source and a good quality small phillips screw driver
- Don't tear the rubber feet completely off the backing plate - just from over the drill holes
- There are 11 screws you'll need to remove. 2 of them are in the little recesses
- When reassembling, compress the spring almost all the way. The anchor will be easier to seat. Teeth up!
- You can verify that the anchor is seated correctly with the backing plate reinstalled. You'll be able to see a little "tooth" in the base plate. This tooth moves back and forth in a slot when the friction wheel is turned.

Here's an image for ya:



Good Luck!

-thud

Just noticed the issue with the R2 in FSX today. Was going to RMA it, but frankly that looks like a better idea. Next project, fixing the FF "deadzone"

Thanks for the heads up!

eeeeeeeeeeeyup, that's the issue, the cord being pulled.

I removed the screw, and the spiking is much less pronounced. The bigger issue here is that this will probably be only a temp fix, as the use of incredibly stiff wire is the root cause of the issue.

I think I'll stick to Logitech keyboards and mice.

Hi to all...just to share that i managed to fix R1 wheel spike problem...Here are pictures of my exploit...






If you wish to donate some currency to me, I would gladly accept..
https://www.paypal.com/hr/cgi-bin/webscr...976060a4ab6ee74

Contact me on PM if you need more info...

As I feared, the pots are rubbish and are failing already.

If I remember the spec correctly, the stick uses pressure sensors but the throttles use regular pots - a major design flaw IMHO.

Get a refund for a defective product and look around for something else, unless they come up with a permanent fix.

--TangoShadow

I think the "permanent fix" is going to be an aftermarket upgrade in the same vain as the Cougar. As a follow up to my post a few days ago, the pots are now totally shot. They have zero response at full throttle, and are jumpy at low throttle. This is disappointing to say the least. Upon opening the upper right hand throttle, I saw root cause of the issue: The pot for the R2 trim has wiggle room. Poking this Pot caused the trim to jump all over the place in the calibration software, recreating the issue so many have complained about. It's not a case of defective product, it's defective engineering. The best fix I can think of would be to solder in an extension to the entire wire bundle. Then glue a section of the wire to the inner housing of the throttle lever, and another section to the throttle housing. The result would be to isolate the movement of the wire down to just the wire extension.


Of course, I'm open to other suggestions.

An email I received 4 days after I sent my inital complaint into " Logitech " (in quotes b/c they out source all their tech support)

"Thank you for contacting our Logitech Technical Support. We are sorry to hear that you are experiencing problems with our product.

From your description of the issue, it appears that your G940 is defective (hardware fault).

In this case, if the product is still within warranty, we advise you to contact your reseller (the shop in which the mouse was purchased) to claim warranty replacement (in the UK reseller's warranty is limited to 12 months and the reseller is required by law to replace any defective products within this period of time). If it is out of the reseller's warranty, you can still make a warranty claim on the basis of the manufacturer's warranty.

Your G940 has a 2-year manufacturer warranty.
If you have any other concerns regarding your product or you have any further questions, please feel free to email us back."

Not sure what my mouse has to do with all this...

Another fun fact: Apparently the English break things a lot, since it only has half the warranty there...

FIXED!!! I have same problem with R1,R2 and Mode swith more than 1 year.It bother me much!After Remove the screw,all problems are gone!!!
Thanks you very much!!!My g940 back to work normally now!You guys do a great job!!!

8 years with my true blue CH Products. It Takes A Lickin', and Keeps On Tickin'

I can also confirm that removing the screw holding the r1&2 pot wires down solved my spiking issues. Mine began a week or two after I got it and grew to a point where almost any change in the throttle sent the pot flickering wildly, which was really annoying in fc2 as I used the pot on the side of the right throttle for zoom. Now it is perfect, and noone would even know I'd been in there. Shame we had to solve this little blunder ourselves, but I didn't feel like sending my throttle back and waiting 6-8 weeks for another unit that might do the same thing within a week. Atleast this way I threw the can in the trash.

New firmware released:

Santas present from Charles B. & Logitech & the rest of the crew [crossing fingers here]

Good luck this time, mates!

pato.

Thanks Cason, Thud and Hrvje for your "fix". I had no problems with my G940 but decided to look at the R1 and R2 Wheels. I saw what the rest of the people here saw. When I idled the throttles the two wheels spiked badly. It took all of ten minutes or less to fix the throttle and put it back together. If you can follow instructions and use a screwdriver(get one with the right tip) you can do this. Hrvje's excellent illustrated instructions are awesome and should be a sticky.

There is my two cents for the day.

Thanks guys.

Maico

Nice fix! Bye bye spiking!!

Damn! The spiking is back. I am thinking of making the wire longer so it dont pull on the white connector....

Fixed my spiking, thanks a lot for instructions.

Kankkis

This happened to me, but since the stick was basically new I contacted the store. They told me to send it back, but now they tell me they won't fix it, just send me a brand new one. So unless Logitech fixed the problem in later versions, I guess I'll be sending it back AGAIN, or fixing it myself... This just isn't acceptable when we're talking about a �400 product!

Hey, I just registered here after reading about the problems with the G940. My wife gave me a G940 as a gift when it was first released. I started having the R1 and R2 spikes after about 2 months of using this.I contacted Logitech concerning this and went through the software troubleshoot stuff and plug into another pc thing and finally got the reply from them that it was most likely defective and they were very nice in sending me a new one after I returned the old one. After about 3 months of moderate use the spikes came back with this one. I returned it the same way. The third one lasted about a couple of months,then spikes showed up again. This time I did the wire fixed as you all know and that bought me a bit more time. Then just before some online flights in ROF about a week ago, I noticed my mode switch was swtiching from mode 1 to mode 2 when I advanced the throttle,also the R1 and R2 wheels were spiking badly.Hmmm. Contacted Logitech ,of course my 1 year warranty was up, they did offer me a new one at half price with a special code,this would be 150 dollars,you can only get it through their site and only applies to retail price--no sale price. Well, I decided to really break into this thing to find out what was going on. I took the outer covering off the famous wire that would get jammed in the screw. I found one wire completely worn in half and another wire just barely hanging on by a few ultra thin wires. I decided to bite the bullet and try to rewire all "twelve wires" using the wires from inside an old phone chord. I made the length of the wires from the bottom of the throttle handle to the twelve pin connector about 9 inches in length to try to avoid too much pressure from pulling as was the problem initially. By the way, the wires were not worn where the screw was but at the bottom of the throttle where the wire bends around to the twelve pin connector.The hardest part for me was twisting these little wires together and then making a good solder joint. I then used very small diameter ( 1/8 inch,3.2 mm ) heatshrink to secure and insulate joint. I ended up just using zip ties in proper locations to hold the twelve wires together. This would allow a lot more flexibility for them. I also put a larger washer on that screw that was to keep wires between those two post, so now there is no way for any type of binding. I put everything back together and all is super--at least for now--ha !!! I guess I just wanted to let you all know that if this is out of warranty and you don't have the extra 150 dollars for a replacement this can be done. I do enjoy this HOTAS when all is working properly,I am very upset at Logitech for not addressing this design flaw. Also,the spikes are not from crimped wires,but from worn wires that will eventually break, at least as in my case.
--cheers--

Yeah, doesn't look like Logitech are too eager to fix their screw up... I guess I'll just wait until the new one breaks as well, then complain until they let me trade it in for a Warthog...

I'm really surprised that Logitech has hung it (and us) out to dry...I mean how else can you explain how they've handled all these situations?
For the drivers not to be updated in almost a year is unheard of for a new product...
It's making my decision to be a Warthog even easier

It's because the issues are related to hardware failure, which can't be fixed by software. Admitting this openly would mean admitting that the product isn't perfect, which seems to be a big no-no for many of these companies.

The best we can do as users is go on sites like amazon and bestbuy and spread the word that the Logitech of old is dead, and a new, craptastic Logitech has emerged in it's place.

Just today I noticed I had trouble with my R1 and R2 rotaries. I use them to adjust mixture when flying the Camel in ROF so they don't get much use. I must say I'm unhappy that this has happened because I have only had this system since September 2010. I had to return the first one purchased in May 2010 with throttle problems. An e-mail has been sent so I await their response.

Hi All,

I just bought this setup from newegg and had found mostly positive reviews about it around the web.. I initially dismissed the handful of "Horrid" reviews that always seem to crop up on even good products but now I'm not sure. Seems like most people were very happy initially but now I'm seeing that after a little wear and tear things go down hill.. UPS ought to be delivering it today, do you think I'm best off removing that screw right off the bat and hoping it makes the throttle last longer or leaving it be and hoping either it starts flaking out before the warranty ends or they fixed the hardware before mine was made? Maybe carefully pry into the box and see how tight the wire looks on mine when at idle?

I'm already planning on tossing the driver disk and pulling down the latest firmware before I even plug it in.

Of course this all may not matter if I can't keep my 2 year old from getting his hands on it! :P

Thanks!
Matt

Hey Warhog,
If it were me knowing what I know now from totally rewiring my G940 throttle, I would go ahead and open the G940 up and just put a larger washer on top of the screw head that was suppose to secure the wire between the two plastic guide post (you can see in the previous pictures.) This is what I did with my rewiring and this insures the wire cannot slip up between the screw head and the plastic post and then lodge causing the excessive wearing. It's easy to disassemble,just remember to gently peel the rubber feet apart at the bottom, they hold the two halves together,(there are no screws under these rubber cushions. You then just need to remove the 11 screws holding the two sections together. When you reassemble just remember to have the tensioner facing the proper direction as in the picture and all should go together perfectly . This I am hoping will allow this throttle to work properly much longer, I sent a notice to Logitech regarding this as maybe a pretty simple fix.
good luck with this,it is a nice unit when working properly,if you have any problems please post--- cheers ---

I recently had a G940 bought for me as a present for an occasion by my wife (after much hinting at from me). Unfortunately, that was before I'd read about all the R1/2 problems, rudder reversal issues and other complaints (on here and over on the Logitech forums). Thanks to the G940 users that are still trying to help out, it's much appreciated.

I must say this could be my last Logitech product unless things improve on their part. As it stands, it's not a total loss for me, although only thanks to the efforts of user posts like the ones here. Thanks again for posting about the user mods to fix this thing. All I need now is a step by step with pics for adding the new controller board, and I'll be a lot more confident of not bricking the whole setup if I feel the need to do that

At this stage, I'm going to do the following:

a) open the throttle and remove that screw, or put a larger washer in between it so the cable doesn't catch, or even wire in some extra slack if I'm not happy with that (as scarecrow did), and

b) hope like heck that revised firmware DOES come out to fix the remaining reversal rubbish (if not, aftermarket controller board here I come, and bye bye Logitech for any future purchase).

I must say from doing a lot of reading, I'm quite disappointed in the (lack of) support that people seem to have received from Logitech . I'd wanted a G940 for so long, since the design, features and capability seemed to be such a great package (especially with force feedback). I've come from a Thrustmaster FCS (circa early 90s when Falcon 3.0 came out), and had Saitek controls in the past as well, and never even thought to check forums for issues with the G940 since Logitech stuff had served me well in the past (G9 mouse and 2nd gen G15 keyboard).

Ever since I upgraded my 940 to firmware 1.42, force feedback in IL2 was absolutely borked! No matter what I did the stick stayed rock hard. I also had problems with spiking and had the unit replaced once. In the end I sold it and bought myself a Warthog. Couldn't be happier.

Phill

I thought the force feedback 'strength' could be adjusted in the software.

I thought so too. Firmware 1.42 killed it! No matter what I changed in the Logitech software all forces in both x and y didn't change...in the end I unplugged the power supply to the stick.

Phill

I opened up mine this week to check for chord tension etc. I don't think I have ever seen worse quality. It just stinks cheap china crap all over. Un-"bolting" the guide didn't solve anything, the problem is probably chafing wires in on of the throttle handles. Need to open moar.

Anyone tried the Warthog? I want that HOTAS. Shame it doesn't have FFB though.

it seems like there are reports of failed throttles in the Warthog as well.

Warthog as well? They gotta kick up the level of quality on PC gear man. The Warthog should not be having problems priced as it is.

Hello Phill.

I felt the same with Wings od Prey after firmware update. Dont worry. All you need to do is following:
Go to Logitech profiler > options > Global Profiler Settings > choose "Apply Persistent profile"
Configure that profile under > Options > Global Device settings.
My recomendations are:
Overall 110
Spring 45
Damper 30
Centering spring Unchecked. (You can check centering spring and set to 0% which add some friction without add centering spring)
Do the same for > Edit > Specific Game Settings
In game use approx middle strenght for FFB (40-50%)
Half of thoose steps are not important, but you need to be sure your changes do the job in game. I archieved even beter FFB feelings with Wings of Prey for now and for example DCS A10-C is simply stunning, even with latest patch.
It's possible that all people claiming strong FFB with constant force after FW 1.41 (1.42) didnt get into this point at all :/
Hope it helps.

EDIT: I can see you do not have G940 anymore But nevermind, could be handy for someone else at least I hope

BTW thanks for this very TIP. I replaced that screw by a holding strip and no more R1/R2 spiking problems for last 3 months.
I can say for now, everything works exelent. Just thinking about changing pots for trhrottle and it will be perfect

Thanks but no thanks. I sold the unit on ebay (got back what I paid) and purchased a warthog.....much, much better!

For modern jets, maybe. But nothing beats FFB for WWI and WWII prop plane combat action. Gotta have G940 for those eras.

My problems started back late April and I have been without the g940 since then. Finally I spat the dummy and the supplier is going to refund my money. It's not just the g940 I'm angry about but Logitech service in general. No more Logitech products for me.
Now of course I will be in the market for a GOOD replacement system. Flying ROF I would prefer FFB but in quest for quality I'll settle for less. Cost is not an issue so what do I buy?

CH Products

Love CH stuff! Really great people to deal with too. I live about 20 miles from their office and I was able to get a replacement stick on the spot one time The big problem is they don't make a force feedback stick any longer. So you have to look someplace else. My G940 is not only having the R1, R2 problems but now when I move one throttle the other throttle moves a bit when you watch on the contoller window. Fortunately it's just set up mixture in ROF so it isn't to bad but it shouldn't happen. Went back to the MS FFB and a CH yoke for its' throttles and CH rudder pedals and bought a back up MS FFB online. Hopefully keep me going for a while. You need force feedback when flying the Camel. Maybe not need, but it sure does help!

Got my money back from Logitech and am TRYING to buy CH. Every retailer here in Oz is out of stock and Amazon won't sell me any. Finally traced one on Oz e-bay today and have sent a request to confirm availability.
Buying Simpeds from Germany. They might be expensive but they have a good rep and are quick to help.
Been away from ROF since end of April and it's killing me.

The problem is the wires at the large connector that are flexing while moving the throttle. The fix is to secure the wiring better - however this requires removing the base of the throttle and that can void your warranty.

I just posted a G940 Mod write up and it includes a section showing you how to fix this problem. It's really just a matter of installing a zip tie.

CLICK HERE

Hello dear Forum!
I bought an extension cable for this, and is working fine now.
I made in China and they made me produce 50, so I am selling most of them on ebay..
if interested, go and search for G940 throttle extension cable...

Cheers!

Man, where you like 2 or 3 years ago with these?


Just going to say that the flexing cable thing and its fix does get rid of that. Totally stupid that a 10 cent problem caused so much UGH with the G940.