If you fly the default Spit 1a or a Hurricane with "cockpit off" your engine might stop and you cannot tell until it is too late.
This occurs because the new flight models mirror the problems that those aircraft had with the gravity fed carburetor.
Ctrl-1 will restart the engine, but shut back to 50% throttle or Wuddy's wet-start feature may result in your getting a blown engine.
This 50% throttle advice also applies to engine starts for groundstarted missions.

Yep, that is a cool feature, if you just nose over for a dive the carb starves and the engine stops! (In default the engine slows only, IIRC) Make sure you roll over before doing a dive!

You need an upgrade to a better carburetor---one fitted with Miss Tilly's Orifice.

Leading a "air to air rocket armned" german squad to attack a Bomber pulk.

If your group is armned with "WGR 21 rockets", the best way to be successful is to lead you squad in a wide turn to the rear of the pulk. After this wide turn you should be at least 3,5km strait behind the Pulk in same height.
At this moment you need to command your squad to attack.
The Ai´s "know" rather good at what distance they need to release the rockets, a goos distance is 1100m, but it vary with the approach speed to the bomber.

If the Ai´s are not in a good position(strait behind the pulk, same alt) they often release the rockets with an angle and then they most fail.

To get into this good position is rather easy without escorting fighters, but with escort you need to be very carefully and follow some rules.

1. You need to command your squad to "target bombers".
2. To gain a higher probability to get to the bombers without to get splitted by the escort, its usefull to command the squad to "tighten the formation".
3. You need to look for a hole in the escort cover and lead the squad into it.
4. If a enemy fighter is rather close, command your squad to regroup, again and again(fast).

If you was able to lead 12 FW190´s or 109G´s into a good position, the rockets often will damage many bombers, even if you not always see smoke, be sure, they are not that tough anymore. At least some gunners wont shoot anymore.
The 110G and Me410´s sometimes realy make havoc, when they shoot their rockets.

Just give it a try, if you fly a german career, its worth it.

Greetings,

Knegel

Changing best engine power heights

By using "ctrl + G" you can enable some usefull informations:

1. fps display.
2. Plane weight in kg
3. Plane weight in lbs
4. Airspeed IAS in km/h
5. Airspeed IAS in mph

Additionally there are three "height" values.

best Alt 1: current best Height(rated height, highest power) of the 1st supercharger stage in feet
best Alt 2: current best Height(rated hight, highest power) of the 2nd supercharger stage in feet
best Alt diff: altitude difference to the current supercharger switch height in feet
(when this value is = 0, you be in the current supercharger switch height, often the worst power)

Like in reality this heights are in big degrees related to the current plane speed(ram air effect).

As such you will take notice that the height vary with the speed.

In older FM´s, also still in SPAW, no 2nd supercharger stage got implemented for now, so the 1st supercharger height is = 0 and also the switch height is close to zero.

So in EAW1.28c the rated altitude change with the plane speed, what is another very ealistic aspect of aircombat with piston engines.

Important to know is that the engines wont overheat if the plane is a little above the current rated altitude. This is so cause above rated altitude the engines cant get loaded with the full presure anymore, as such the engine run more cool.

So if a plane have two supercharger stages, there is a altitude band, above the 1st rated alt and below the supercharger switch height, where the engine wont overheat and then again above the 2nd rated alt.


If you know the best altitudes of your plane and that of the enemy plane, you can try to force the enemy to fight in you best altitude and you can use the best relative escape altitude or just the best cruise altitude, where the engine wont overheat but offer still good power.

Greetings,

Knegel

When starting your engine in 1.28c, you must be concious of the throttle setting. No throttle and it won't start. Too much, and you'll get a "wet start"," complete with flames and dark smoke. Try a setting about 1/3 to 1/2 throttle. Then once it starts, ease the throttle forward if your engine is cold or you could damage it. Like wise in a dive that goes too fast, watch your engine temp gauge - if it cools too much and you slam the throttle forward, you could damage the engine as well.