Just ordered a G 940.

I have to say that Logitech_Mark hanging around here and answering questions was a big plus with regard to my decision.

I was also interested to note that the 940 has the same type of gearing as the G27 (helical) as opposed to straight cut as it is on the G25, I initially understood it to be the same as the earlier G25 racing wheel.

I'll see about getting the dimensional document posted somewhere.

The mode switch does not show up as buttons, it is hidden by the driver. If you assign buttons directly as Dx buttons, there is no difference in modes, e.g. Fire is always Fire, S1 is always S1. Only when they are programmed in Profiler can they change in modes.

The Stick X and Y axes are a 3D Hall sensor, the other axes use variable resistors.

The throttle detents are permanent, set at about the last 10% of travel at each end. Reducing the friction adjustment minimizes them.

The gearing in the G940 is straight cut, not helical. However, it isn't as important as it is in G940, since the rotational difference is so much smaller.

Quick question about the G940 drivers: can you set it up such that the whole HOTAS is presented as a single DirectInput device, and any leftover buttons and axes are moved to either extra DirectInput devices or emulated keyboard/mouse inputs?

For example, for the primary DirectInput device, I want the stick on X and Y, the throttle on Z/Throttle and Slider, the rudder on RZ/Rudder, and RX/X Rotation and RY/Y Rotation could easily be the microswitch or the toebrakes on the pedals. And, of course, the buttons can be any combination of stick and throttle button/hat switch inputs, or perhaps even scripted bands for any of the axes.

This is important because a lot of games (mostly older ones, though, but even a few recent ones like ArmA II) only see the first DirectInput device, and worse, they are often limited in the number of axes and buttons they can detect. In the worst cases, you can't even remap the axes, and button support is extremely limited. The best solution for me is to map the most important controls to the DirectInput axes and buttons the game in question can detect, and then remap everything else to keyboard and mouse emulation as necessary.

What are the chances of using the pedals standalone via some form of adaptor to USB connection or via a converter to use it with a Cougar set? - is the connection a straight analogue affair or are we talking digital stuff here?

This isn't currently possible. It is something we are considering as an option in a future release, to support some older sims, and arcade sims like HAWX

Not easily done. The pedals are not a stand-alone set of USB pedals with a proprietary connector. They are axes extended from the main unit.

Okay, but do they present as a 'simple' analogue wiring connection at the stick or are they some form of encoded digital connection?

Although, since their connection can be swapped either way with the throttle and bearing in mind all the additional commands the throttle gives I'm assuming it must be a digital connection since there are not enough lines available on those connectors, or is it some complex switch matrix?...

Hello,

Apologies if this has been dealt with before,
I wanted to kindly ask Logitech if they could fix the annoying harddisk like noise coming from the base of the yoke when it is at idle (non in game and hand off it).

This is a fairly annoying because it requires the user to nudge the stick to the center for the motors to stop. It would be much better if the stick wouldn't try centering when at idle and not in a game and with the hand off it.

There is a thread on the logitech forum about it with many users experiencing this.
Thanks a lot for your support


Luca

Can't the FFB just be turned off when idle? Just pull the power plug otherwise.