Oh by all means, have at!

I still need to add the lettering to the landing gear indicators for my sub-panel.

You need to post updated pics of your cockpit.

g.

As soon as I find a big enough stick to stuff its guts back in I will

Hello fellow simpit addicts! I have been away from the forum for a while do a Mad Scientist bit out in the shop. With advice from Gene, CNCzone.com, and videos on Buildyourcnc.com I have striven to achieve automation! MUAHHAHHHAAA! (really should stay on my meds)

What I have actually achieved is the building of a 4x8 CNC router table. Programing goes in, parts cut to size come out. I built my creation out of MDF and surprisingly it is a rock solid. I have only run a few jobs on it so far (waiting for better end mill bits) but I will soon start working on the plans for "Generic Simpit Mark II".

The first things I want to work on are instrument panels, I need to figure out what material they are going to be fabricated out of...aluminium or plastic? I want backlighting on the lettering so they will be etched into the material also.....Oh boy Oh boy Oh Boy!

Thanks for your advice Gene!

Welcome to the Fraternity of Evil Geniuses.

If you're going to cut aluminum, I was pointed to a pair of Onsrud 2 flue up-shear bits:
40-107 .25" and 40-101 .125". They're roughly $5 each. The ShopBot forum is down at the moment or I would let you know what the recommended feed & RPM is for cutting aluminum. (As soon as I get the info I'll update this message)

The bits can be purchased from Ballew Tools - http://ballewsawandtool.com/

If you want to get further into tips & such on exploiting your new Awesome Toy Creator, email me privately - no need to clog the forum with it. (Unless people want to see it?)

g.

Perhaps we should start a CNC thread, giving tips, tricks, build information (perhaps not advice from me as that would lead to an extended hospital stay) and share gcode, and vector files.

Thanks for the link, lots of goodies there. I have those bits on their way already (different brand though). I would very much like more information on feed and RPM for Aluminium and brass. I plan on building a new PC case for my office from 1/4" brass plate. See the link in my signature for a better idea of why.

Using those bits I specified, use .8 IPS (inches per second) for x & y moves, and .5 IPS for z (plunge) moves. RPM should be 18,000.

You'll get hot chips so it would be a good idea to set up an air cooler on the bit. I built a cooler that is fed directly from my air compressor. It uses a ball inflation needle as the output. The little side hole in the tip should be covered up as well. If you hit my YT page, you can see it in use when I was cutting some aluminum parts.

I don't know what the right feed & speed would be for brass - you'll have to experiment.

Also, do NOT take full depth passes! When cutting non-ferrous metals, I would recommend no more than .015" for the 1/8" bit and .100 for the 1/4" bit. The issue is machine deflection due to load. (that and without flood coolant you'll likely have chip re-weld issues and snap the cutter in half)

cool case.

g.

Built your own CNC machine, wow! If you are able to post any photos I would be interested to see what it all looks like.
I lurk around some on the mycockpit.org forum and noticed they recently started a sub-forum to discuss CNC routing of control panels, controls etc.. You might give a gander at what they've set up.

As for me....if I can manage a "basically" straight line with my powersaws I'm feeling like the king of DIY'ers. Hats off to you for putting all together and making it work.
Regards,
Derek

Here you go, some pictures I took during the build. I started on Sunday with boxes full of parts and yesterday I finished after running several test jobs. Today I made a pen attachment to use for my other addiction, R/C airplane building. I can lay out wide roll paper and use the table to draw plans, etc. I can then cut out those plans using the CNC, life is wonderful



I decided to use my outfeed table as the CNC table. There is 9+ feet off the sawblade for clearance if I am cutting anything wider than 36", I can still go 12'+ to the wall for cutting Corian countertop material. (perhaps I will use the CNC to cut them for now on, muahahhahah!)



You can see the rails (X-axis) attached to the table sides now.



The gantry (Y axis) assembled and attatched to the X-axis rails.



The Z-axis and spindle motor (Bosch 2.25 HP router head) attached.
Note the chain drives on both the X and Y axis'. This works very well and is increadibly accurate (surprised me as I didnt expect pinpoint accuracy but I got it).



The Z-axis showing the 12"x10tpi (teeth per inch) lead screw. I need to clean up the wiring an perhaps put a coat of paint on the raw wood. I am pretty sure I am going to design a prettier setup and use this machine to cut out the next version though, so maybe I will leave the wood as is.



A cheap P4 2.2ghz all in one PC (Omnitech) from Ebay (79.99) completes the system.

Parts:
V-Groove roller bearings (3/8)for the slides (VBX.com).
1/8"x3/4"x8' Aluminium angle from Menards as slides.
3@10' #40 roller chain from Northern Tool
Sprokets and idlers from Spacely Space Sprokets (ok, from McMaster Carr) ( tooth #40 main sproket)
Gecko G540 breakout board and drivers
Keling 387oz motors (1 for Z, 1 for Y and two for X)
48v power supply (also from Keling)
lots of sweat, nuts, bolts...and...oh yeah, a bit of blood (darn MDF soaks it right up)
Mach3 control software
Design CAD for making pretty pictures to size.

Nice work PropNut

I bought a small CNC to help with my backlit 'pit panels and small components. It's become a whole new hobby in itself. Here's a pic if anyone's interested:




At $580 delivered, it's right at the bargain basement of CNC machines, but it's surprisingly capable. There's quite a learning curve, especially if you're new to 3D modelling

Just re-read your post and viewed the pics again. Great job and an excellent addition to your shop! Thanks for posting the photos.
Derek