HHF - With pushbutton switches, use NO (normally open) switches. With momentary toggles, you can use either OFF-(MOM) or ON-(MOM), since the momentary side is all you will be using.
As far as those Shack switches go, they're not the best quality. (Plus, they're not double pole...read on. )


Sokol1 - I have to disagree with your 2nd drawing....Sorry.
You have basically shorted all your yellow, red, blue, and green wires together. If you look at the trace (above D4), it connects the left switch's black wire with the lower switch's black wire. With your wiring, either position of the left, or the bottom, switches will short all 4 of them out.

The better solution would be to use double pole switches, in the corners.
Or, you can use all double poles, if you want them all to look the same at the panel. (The 4 main switches would just use one set of the poles.)

Like this:

Your are correct
These matrix used in sticks circuits are a little confused.

Maybee you can use only 4 these switchs in his wiring diagram.

I forgot to mention, in my assembly I used diodes in each pole of the switchs
to avoid commands no wanted:
http://img507.imageshack.us/img507/6425/ch1or0.jpg

Sokol1

Wow I don't know what I'd do without your help guys! Thanks a bunch again, I'm going to start looking for some decent momentary toggles and pots at those links provided earlier. Radio shack just has a store in town and are cheap. I figured why spend the extra cash on something I might screw up but on hindsight now I think if it does work I want it to last!

Thanks
Chris

Mouser and Digikeys are almost certainly cheaper than Radio Shack when you're purchasing switches. Radio Shack is good for a quick buy, but if you're getting 10 or 100 of something I've found it's to be avoided.

The only other issue for me is that Mouser and Digikey are a little harder to navigate in finding what I'm looking for. Since I'm new at this figuring out what pots and switches are the right fit is difficult. With all the selections I'm bound to screw it up somewhere LOL!

Thats why I'll just post some links to what I think are the right parts I need and ask you guys if it fits. I might go pick up a few things from radio shack anyways like one button/switch and a pot just for testing purposes. At least this way I can get started and figure out what I'm doing (or think I'm doing LMAO).

Best,
Chris

Well I think I found the two of the switches I may use if approved LOL!

On-Off-On Toggle (thanks Sokol1)
http://www.mpja.com/productview.asp?product=16090+SW


On-off Toggle
http://www.mpja.com/Category/Switches/To...CH_16073_SW.asp


Its either 8 single throws or 4 doubles if two commands can work with either side of one button.

EDIT: I think the pots are 10k 4A(mp?) the other numbers I'm not sure about. But I have a close up:



The number to the right of 10 is definitely 4, the 02 & 2N I don't know.

Thanks
Chris

EDIT#2: I think I found a pot that may work from mouser. It has a center detent and 300deg. of rotation. Here is the data sheet and other links:

http://www.mouser.com/catalog/specsheets/XC-600177.pdf

Catalog Link:
http://www.mouser.com/catalog/630/540.PDF

After that I just need one more Pot to finish the job if I get three of these type. I'm just not sure if I'm looking for the right thing. The last pot I'll need is a regular one to replace the throttles pot. I'm guessing the pot in the throttle is different because it goes from 0-100. I've seen enough pots for one night though LOL!

True. Unless you are well versed in their products, it can be alot of work. The same goes for McMaster-Carr, when searching for raw materials. However, they all are pretty free with their catalogs. Usually, you will get their "mini" versions sent to you free, after you order something. Personally, I call and get their full catalogs sent out. All 3 are Yellow Pages sized but nothing beats flipping through the pages... and often times just doing that can cause all sorts of ideas to pour out. I highly recommend all 3 catalogs, to any pit builder!

The switches look like a good choice this time!
As far as the pots go....don't assume. Often times the markings on a device are nothing more than codes. If you knew the manufacturer, you could pull a data sheet, or maybe a white sheet on their marking scheme and confirm it, but a far easier way is to just meter out the pots. Connect a multimeter to the two outside wires and read the resistance. (Guessing is for poker players. )

And if you don't have a meter....that is where the Shack comes in handy. A simple digital meter is a must have (if for no other reason than audible continuity checks) and only 20 or 30 dollars.

Yeah I do have a decent fluke Meter, thats just dying to be put to use. I'll test that out today on the old pots and see what it tells me.

The company I work for is in corporate crisis management. We basically take over management of a company then liquidate the company. That said I've been in the right place at the right time and have a soldering station, fluke, all the little electronics tools I can ever need. Most of our clients are computer companys or computer related.

I get all these cool toys and tools but that doesnt mean I ever use any of them. Now I get to really learn to use a soldering gun and digi meter!

OK well I tested the old pots and I read the ohms at 150, I'm not sure if I read it right so I think I'll also send an email to logitech to see if they can tell me the specs on the particular stick. Probably what I should have done in the first place.

Well in testing I did think of something I hadn't yet and that is to hook it up to the PC and make sure everything still works, it did! All the pulling apart and touching stuff had me a little worried but I havent zapped anything yet!

On another note when I'm testing the pots with a multimeter what am I testing for?

Thanks for the help, I do feel like I'm learning stuff though.

You're testing for resistance. You're measuring in ohms.
Also, keep in mind that with a digital Fluke meter, it's probably auto scaling.
So, watch for the little "K" symbol (or a caret pointing to a Kohm legend), around the perimeter of the display.
Which means it scaled up to the Kohms scale.

K = kilo = thousands = add 3 zeros
M = mega = millions = add 6 zeros

So... 150 displayed, with a K symbol lit = 150,000 ohms, or a 150K pot.