I've been thinking of getting a used joystick for the purpose of hacking and making a control box but was curious if anyone had any suggestions on what joystick I should use.

I have an X-52 HOTAS and Rudder pedals (All saitek), will I need a specific controller to work alongside these devices and not screw things up? I was thinking of getting something like an X-36/X45 or any stick that will work that has a lot of buttons. If I were to get an X36/45 would I be able to use programming software?

I've been wanting to build a custom control setup for a while but money issues have kept me from the more expensive USB controller modules. I'm looking to build something with trim wheels and all the extra buttons I can get for engine start, gear & etc............

Thanks
Chris

Chris,

If you want extra buttons, and you want really amazing ability to program them, then you might want to think about a touchscreen. I got one, and I love it (like you I also have an X-52 and Saitek pedals - but it doesn't matter what you have).

Go here, check this out.

http://www.touch-buddy.com/forums/index.php

Software is free, and the hardware should run you about $200 or so. I got mine for about $150 plus $20 shipping.

Ripcord

EDIT: Actually this FAQ thread is really a lot better.

http://www.touch-buddy.com/forums/faq/18-master-faq.html

You can try the software without having a touchscreen, by the way, just using a second screen (or connecting a laptop) and using your mouse to click on it. That way you can try some of the cool profiles that have already been created. But you will want a touchscreen before you are done.

Thats something for the future, I thinking a little cheaper here. But you are right, I've read some stuff about TouchBuddys applications in flight simming. I think I looked at one guy who used his for gauges but could change it to button commands by pressing arrows at the bottom of the screen.

I'd like to do that but if had that cash I'd buy a USB Keyboard enocoder. Eventually I want to build a simpit that has working pushbuttons and trim wheels for about everything imaginable. For now due to saving for a home and paying back taxes along with other bills I think a used HOTAS joystick will be cheaper and easier. Thanks for the suggestions!

Chris

the best(easiest) joystick to hack is the Saitek AV8R. It has plenty of buttons and trim wheels and they are easy to connect to because they all have two wires leading to them - not printed circuit boards like the X-52 or X-45.

its fully programmable, but I don't know if it would interfere with your X-52. I think if you just assigned commands through the sim and not use the Saitek programming it would work fine.

Well, for programability these are pretty "hackable" , plenty of buttons, plenty of axis. Altho, may be out of the price range.

The AV8R sounds good if the electronics really are that simple inside. Really any joystick will work, though. Lots of people hack up various Logitech products. Don't hack up a CH controller - you don't need to spend that much money for this sort of project.

Any joystick that is programmable before you hack it up will retain that programmability once you have taken it to pieces and re-wired it. The only important part of that equation is the PCB that gives you the USB connection to your computer.

You do not need any special controller to work alongside your existing X-52.

Don't hack up a CH controller? OOPS!

Yeah I guess an X36/45 would work then. I really dont need it to work with SST software, just an added bonus. But if I were to hack one of the above controllers I'm wondering if I can program the axis as trim wheels in the HOTAS section of the IL2 controls. All the other buttons would be fine just assigned through the IL2 control scheme but for trim I know you dont get that accurate control unless programmed in the HOTAS section.

Thanks for all the help everyone, and as always more suggestions are always welcome!

Chris

My next project is going to be one of Leo's USB Controllers to convert a gameport TQS/F-16/Rudder to USB.


http://www.lbodnar.dsl.pipex.com/joystick/

Yes, you should be able to. The hacked-up axes should just appear as any other axis to IL-2.

X45:
http://www.geocities.com/jeroen_huijben/X45_schematic.gif
P8k:
http://www.geocities.com/jeroen_huijben/P8k_schematic.gif
Cougar's TQS:
http://www.geocities.com/jeroen_huijben/CougarThrottleEdit.gif

Thanks a bunch for the links Jeroen, no doubt those will come in handy. As soon as I get my monthly payroll I'll be making the X-45 purchase with the deals on ebay at $15-20 plus $15 shipping.

I'm really hoping to ditch the old keyboard in simming after this project.

I used an old MS Extreme Force feedback stick to convert into control box.

It gives me prop pitch, and trim controls via dials on the front. You could use all the buttons from the stick but you need a big front panel for that as that stick had a lot of buttons.
Does not have any problem and works fine with my full CH setup and IL2.

Well while waiting for a decent auction on ebay for an X45 I decided maybe I should practice my skills first before destroying a used joystick. I picked up an old Logitech Wingman Extreme Digital from my brother and went to work taking it apart yesterday. I was able to pull it all apart to the point where I only had the board, wires and pots.

The pots are very cheap plastic but there are four axis (throttle, pitch, roll, rudder) and have three wires each. All the fire buttons are hardwired to the board and the 8 pos. hat switch is only 4 buttons, when two buttons are pressed it activates one of the diagnal Hat positions.

I dont have a camera handy to take pics but I plan on taking some pics or finding some on the web.I hope to desolder the buttons so I can attach center off toggles (I think those are the kind that are spring loaded, press and returns to original pos.). I'm also hoping to replace the pots with something a little more durable. The hat switch is my biggest concern, as I'm not sure if I'll be able to exploit the 8 button potential but 4 buttons isnt that bad either.

If any of you have any experience in hacking a logitech wingman I'd greatly appreciate the help. Hopefully I'll get some pics of the board up to help. I think the buttons are going to be the biggest issue here.

Actually, they are called momentary contact toggles. A momentary pushbutton switch is like a keyboard key. (it bounces back up) A momentary toggle switch is spring loaded to return to center. Alot of times you will see them labeled like this, too: OFF- (MOM).

With replacement pots, know the originals's resistance (10K, 50K, 100K, etc.) and be sure to check the specs or the data sheet, of the replacement. Pot durabilities can vary anywhere from 5,000 to 100,000 cycles. Industrial position sensors (fancy pots ) are rated for a million cycles. Hall effect sensors (no wipers to create wear ) are rated for about 2 million cycles. Of course the last two are a bit pricey!

Digikey is a great place to look. They have data sheets for most items. Although, they do have a minimum purchase requirement.
Mouser is a good choice for small orders.

Thanks for the advice Grizzly. I bought the project box yesterday and now I just need to take some pics of the board and buttons/pots. I did come across an example of my joystick being hacked for a project but it didn't go into detail about how the joystick was hacked. The guy had attached wires to spots on the board where the buttons were and added new buttons/switches by bypassing the old altogether and leaving the old in place.

I'll try and find a link to that one....

I rewire, for friend, a old CH PRO Throttle gameport, using the USB circuit of a nameless stick:

His USB circuit provide 4 axis, one HAT (8 angle/corner) and 12 buttons.

The CH PRO Throttle gameport originaly have 20 buttons, distribute in four 4 way HATS plus more 4
push buttons.

CH PRO Throttle whit new USB circuit:


To allow all original 20 buttons and HATs of CH PRO Throttle to continue working, I used the corners of HAT (of USB stick) as 4 buttons, using diodes to avoid that two buttons pressed at the same time in diagonal generated commands. This provide me the necessary 20 buttons.

Diodes in one HAT, wiring in original Stick 8 way HAT. This allow to use HAT corners as four buttons:


Tip - avoid solder in USB circuit, or use grounded iron. They are sensitive to ESD.

Others gameport sticks awaiting rewire is:
One Suncom Hawk, one CH F16 Combatstik, one CH Force FX (maybee whit Logitec FF circuit) and one
TM TopGun. I like this stics due to his design based on real ones.

Sokol1

LOL great to see others into this stuff. This is my first controller hack project and hopefully not my last! I did get around to taking some detailed pics of the board today though and here they are:

Everything altogether minus usb plug


Cheap Pot (4 in total but all the same)


Top of joystick (4 buttons & 8 way hat switch)


Base of stick (two buttons throttle/pitch/roll pots connect here)


Top Backside (just for kicks)


Base Backside


I need to figure out how to utilize the 8 way hat switch & 4 top buttons/trigger as 13 independent buttons (momentary push once release). Then I need to figure out what to replace the pots with plus how to wire the new ones in there place.

In all I have or would like to ed up with:

13 Buttons
4 Pots

Thats if I'm guessin right by the looks of the stick.

I think the pots will be the easiest part by the looks of things. The hardest part I think is the 8 way hat switch. The hat is physically 4 buttons but when the hat was pointed say northwest or diagonally it contacted the top/left buttons at the same time. I have'nt got a clue where to start but I have a soldering gun all the tools and I'm ready to learn! Any help on what to do, how to do it and what to get is greatly appreciated. I've seen the work you guys do and its top notch, better to learn from the pros like you!

Thanks
Chris
AKA Hitch

HitchHikingFlatlander

To wire 4 momentary toggle switch (SPDT)to you HAT board:



To wire 8 momentary toggle switch (SPDT) to you HAT board:



Use 8 toggle switchs instead thes doubles show above, if desire.

IMO - The original push button in HAT board are normaly open (NO) switch, is more easy leave this in board that try de-weld (remove).

Sokol1

Thanks Sokol1 thats a huge help. Now if I were to mount 8 switches like this:



http://www.radioshack.com/product/index....rentPage=family

Actually I'd like to use a momentary switch like the toggles in your pics, ones that spring back to the original position. To be perfectly honest I like to use either switch for every button on the board. Would you be so kind to give me some tips on how to wire those in?

I'm also curious if the switches I should be looking for (momentary that is) should be normally open or closed?

Once agains thanks a bunch for helping out, I really don't have a clue where to start!

Best,
Chris

HHF - With pushbutton switches, use NO (normally open) switches. With momentary toggles, you can use either OFF-(MOM) or ON-(MOM), since the momentary side is all you will be using.
As far as those Shack switches go, they're not the best quality. (Plus, they're not double pole...read on. )


Sokol1 - I have to disagree with your 2nd drawing....Sorry.
You have basically shorted all your yellow, red, blue, and green wires together. If you look at the trace (above D4), it connects the left switch's black wire with the lower switch's black wire. With your wiring, either position of the left, or the bottom, switches will short all 4 of them out.

The better solution would be to use double pole switches, in the corners.
Or, you can use all double poles, if you want them all to look the same at the panel. (The 4 main switches would just use one set of the poles.)

Like this:

Your are correct
These matrix used in sticks circuits are a little confused.

Maybee you can use only 4 these switchs in his wiring diagram.

I forgot to mention, in my assembly I used diodes in each pole of the switchs
to avoid commands no wanted:
http://img507.imageshack.us/img507/6425/ch1or0.jpg

Sokol1

Wow I don't know what I'd do without your help guys! Thanks a bunch again, I'm going to start looking for some decent momentary toggles and pots at those links provided earlier. Radio shack just has a store in town and are cheap. I figured why spend the extra cash on something I might screw up but on hindsight now I think if it does work I want it to last!

Thanks
Chris

Mouser and Digikeys are almost certainly cheaper than Radio Shack when you're purchasing switches. Radio Shack is good for a quick buy, but if you're getting 10 or 100 of something I've found it's to be avoided.

The only other issue for me is that Mouser and Digikey are a little harder to navigate in finding what I'm looking for. Since I'm new at this figuring out what pots and switches are the right fit is difficult. With all the selections I'm bound to screw it up somewhere LOL!

Thats why I'll just post some links to what I think are the right parts I need and ask you guys if it fits. I might go pick up a few things from radio shack anyways like one button/switch and a pot just for testing purposes. At least this way I can get started and figure out what I'm doing (or think I'm doing LMAO).

Best,
Chris

Well I think I found the two of the switches I may use if approved LOL!

On-Off-On Toggle (thanks Sokol1)
http://www.mpja.com/productview.asp?product=16090+SW


On-off Toggle
http://www.mpja.com/Category/Switches/To...CH_16073_SW.asp


Its either 8 single throws or 4 doubles if two commands can work with either side of one button.

EDIT: I think the pots are 10k 4A(mp?) the other numbers I'm not sure about. But I have a close up:



The number to the right of 10 is definitely 4, the 02 & 2N I don't know.

Thanks
Chris

EDIT#2: I think I found a pot that may work from mouser. It has a center detent and 300deg. of rotation. Here is the data sheet and other links:

http://www.mouser.com/catalog/specsheets/XC-600177.pdf

Catalog Link:
http://www.mouser.com/catalog/630/540.PDF

After that I just need one more Pot to finish the job if I get three of these type. I'm just not sure if I'm looking for the right thing. The last pot I'll need is a regular one to replace the throttles pot. I'm guessing the pot in the throttle is different because it goes from 0-100. I've seen enough pots for one night though LOL!

True. Unless you are well versed in their products, it can be alot of work. The same goes for McMaster-Carr, when searching for raw materials. However, they all are pretty free with their catalogs. Usually, you will get their "mini" versions sent to you free, after you order something. Personally, I call and get their full catalogs sent out. All 3 are Yellow Pages sized but nothing beats flipping through the pages... and often times just doing that can cause all sorts of ideas to pour out. I highly recommend all 3 catalogs, to any pit builder!

The switches look like a good choice this time!
As far as the pots go....don't assume. Often times the markings on a device are nothing more than codes. If you knew the manufacturer, you could pull a data sheet, or maybe a white sheet on their marking scheme and confirm it, but a far easier way is to just meter out the pots. Connect a multimeter to the two outside wires and read the resistance. (Guessing is for poker players. )

And if you don't have a meter....that is where the Shack comes in handy. A simple digital meter is a must have (if for no other reason than audible continuity checks) and only 20 or 30 dollars.

Yeah I do have a decent fluke Meter, thats just dying to be put to use. I'll test that out today on the old pots and see what it tells me.

The company I work for is in corporate crisis management. We basically take over management of a company then liquidate the company. That said I've been in the right place at the right time and have a soldering station, fluke, all the little electronics tools I can ever need. Most of our clients are computer companys or computer related.

I get all these cool toys and tools but that doesnt mean I ever use any of them. Now I get to really learn to use a soldering gun and digi meter!

OK well I tested the old pots and I read the ohms at 150, I'm not sure if I read it right so I think I'll also send an email to logitech to see if they can tell me the specs on the particular stick. Probably what I should have done in the first place.

Well in testing I did think of something I hadn't yet and that is to hook it up to the PC and make sure everything still works, it did! All the pulling apart and touching stuff had me a little worried but I havent zapped anything yet!

On another note when I'm testing the pots with a multimeter what am I testing for?

Thanks for the help, I do feel like I'm learning stuff though.

You're testing for resistance. You're measuring in ohms.
Also, keep in mind that with a digital Fluke meter, it's probably auto scaling.
So, watch for the little "K" symbol (or a caret pointing to a Kohm legend), around the perimeter of the display.
Which means it scaled up to the Kohms scale.

K = kilo = thousands = add 3 zeros
M = mega = millions = add 6 zeros

So... 150 displayed, with a K symbol lit = 150,000 ohms, or a 150K pot.

OK then that does sound right. I even had my old man help me out on this one. Hes no electronics expert but he was a chief engineer in the USCG for roughly 33yrs. While using the fluke we kept getting a reading that we didnt think made sense, so he pulled out his 30yr old multi meter and read it that way. The old simple non digital meter was the way to go, since it read 150,000ohms, which is also funny because I questioned that reading too. Simply put I have a lot to learn but I'll get there!

Thanks for the help again Grizzly!
Chris

At the moment, I'm hacking this one.

Update: Found here...

Bump/update

LOL thanks been away for the week at sunny Rollins Lake in Northern California!

Wow almost one year later and I'm finally starting my project. I've bought the switches and will post progress pics soon I still need 2 more on-off-on mom switches and I need a few pots but I'll get it together.

too late...i hacked up a CH Products Combatstick to make a Extreme mod cyclic helicopter control stick...I am in thr process of hacking up a Pro Throttle to make a collective... because other than that, these items were just collecting dust...

I hacked up a Saitek Aviator for foot pedals...

i choose to hack these up also, because they had good programming utilities made by the manufacturer...

Which is why I might use a an X52/45 since they have all the buttons, and three programmable modes. I was originally thinking that I could program 3 uses for each switch using the mode selector. Thats how I use my current X-52 anyways and would require less 3 times the buttons..... I think.

I'm so close to being finished I still havent figured out the pots yet but have all the switches. I was wondering if someone can help me with the HAT switch again I have four (on)off(on) toggles that I'm hoping can used for all 8 buttons. Can someone help me out by looking at the previous diagram and giving me ideas on how to connect the switches?

I'm not sure if I'll need diodes either as Sokol mentioned before. My gut tells me no, because the I'm going directly from the pins of the old buttons but I really dont know!

Right not I'm not too worried about the pots because I play a lot of LOMAC now which doesnt really need them (I find the hats on my X-52 work great for trimming in LOMAC).

As always thanks for the help!

PS To think I was starting this project over a year ago and I'm still not done, too much work, stress and definitely not enough play.................

EDIT: To avoid confusion I the switches I have are identical to the DPTD switches in the last diagram by Grizzly. Is there any way to use four toggles or do I have to get another four buttons for the corners? If I have to do the latter I can pick a few up at radio shack to finish this out!

I think this would do the trick.
I don't know which hat position is what, so the directions listed are based on the way the PCB is pictured. (UP being the top 2 switch holes, etc.)

Thanks grizzly a huge help after posting this last night I went into tinker mode and got each possible key press from the hat switch except for one diagonal corner. I'll take this apart and try again to see if I have better luck with your diagram! It took me a while and a lot of head scratching but damn did I get a little better at soldering and I think I understand a lot more of how the matrix works for this particular stick!

Well first off thanks to everyone who gave me great advice and then sorry for taking so long to give a progress report! I finished (more or less) re-wiring the Logitech into a control box with 4 DPDT momentary toggles and seven mom. pushbuttons. So far I haven't re-wired the pots and probably won't. When I was building it I had a tough time figuring out what the old pots were and now its together I havent felt like taking it apart!

Well heres what the switch looks like half way thru and in its current state. I have to apologize once more because during the build process I didn't have a camera (I do now)!




Right now I use it with LOMAC for flaps/airbrake/engine start&stop and various other useful commands. So far has worked great and proved really helpful.

Now fastforward to now, I recently purchased a Saitek Aviator cheap and was initially inspired by Hannibals cool use of its parts. But then I finally got my copy of black shark and thought well helos do have collective controls dont they? So I'm in the process of finishing a mod to turn that controller into just that leaving the rest of the controller relatively unharmed for the moment....

Heres what it looks like underneath, honestly quite cheap but effective design.

Dual throttle

Toggles

Stick Handle before removing the spring and washer, wont be needing any spring to center.

No going back now!


So next I cut two pcs of 1/4" plexiglass and filed them to act as wedges. Though once the the spring is removed the gimbal is tight enough to hold itself in place.

Then I put the pcs in place and marked where I'll need to drill the holes.



Next thing is to drill the holes and put the pcs in place. I'll drill the holes a little bigger than the screws I use so I can have some play in setting the friction. Hoping to have it done tomorrow night!

And then theres one more, recently I picked up a couple of Shuttle Pro 2 USB controllers for video editing. It turns out that even though they're not game controllers they still act as keyboard encoders in a way. They have an SST like software where you can program the buttons and two jog wheels any way you like even with macros. It has 15 buttons and two jog wheels, one that springs back to center either way you spin the other spins infinitely in either direction.




Started to wire a 6-pos rotary switch but gotta figure out how to make it work because the buttons are the only open type so I'll get repeated key presses. If anyone knows a way to make the switch work please let me know I'd like to use it but I'm starting to think it wont work!

Hitch

OK Round Two (still round three to go though).

Tonight I set everything up and changed the plans a tad bit.
I cut a couple pcs of 1/2"x/1/2" wood and attached them to
the plexiglass rectangles I cut.
Next it was time to attach the plates to the joystick.
For good measure I added a piece of door weather stripping.
I only did one side because the idea didnt come until I was
half thru doh!



I had to sand the edges of the wood on one side because
the handle was hitting. With the weather stripping
in place it got the right amount of friction and stays
where you put it.



With that satisfactory I started re-connecting the wires
and wrapped them with heat shrink.



Got all the wires back together!



Now to put it back together!



Notice the middle button missing well its still MIA
and I'll be damned if I'll find it. So after a search
that yielded no dice I found an adhesive backed rubber
foot for electronics. I shaved it down and sanded it
to round the edges and its now a temp. button!



Well for tonight thats it tomorrow I figure a way to
mount it then its proraming and flying the Black Shark!
I purposely havent played to wait for the collective!
I'll post more pics tomorrow when I get things in place,
have to mount a pro gamer command unit also for more buttons.

So far the joystick cost me about $40 and the mod itself has
only cost a a few bucks (I had most parts on hand), an easy way to get an extra
controller.

OK round three!

I'll keep this one quick I mounted the AV8R to a square
plank of wood and attached it to the bottom of my throttle
using a 1/8" thick steel tie. End result is I'm not happy
with the sturdiness of the mount it wobbles and bounces
up and down (duh I knew that was gonna happen). The
solution to that is to add another support making it stronger.



And heres a suprise I found the missing button, dropped a screw
and found it when I went to pick it up!



And the new and improved pit Black Shark ready!





It looks cramped but I can get to everything pretty easily and I'm
happy with it for the moment. I want to plan a more proper collective
mod panel with the inside of the AV8R. And I got to say that I really
rushed too fast with the project I'm already noticing things I could
have done differently. But what the hell its kid with new toy syndrome!

Now I have to order some parts for my next project and learn how to fly!

you will not regret your modification..

once you go collective..you CANNOT, and dont even want to go back to a throttle for flying helicopters..

nice setup..
i thought my setup was complicated..


i currently undergoing 2 projects..
1)Suncom SFS F-15 split throttle mod/upgrade (preparing for DCS-THunderbolt, OFP2, ARMA2 & BFBC2)
2) new collective project ! details soon...

Awesome so you were able to score a Suncom. I look forward to seeing your projects, especially the split throttle! And LOL your set up is complicated I just have spagetti wiring to deal with

Nice work Hitch!!!

so now that you have the collective...how does it feel?

Thanks Grizzly!

It works great the throw is pretty short so I'm already thinking of lengthening it. I really only played BS for a little bit last night and only got as far to set up the AXIS' in game for controls. Rough version is I did OK but have a lot to learn as I couldnt keep the nose down on the shark!

i hear you,, mine is a little too long, but i can always program for a short angle of deflection... the next collective i will be will be smaller..

right now its 5" (grip) + 12" (handle) = 17
im going to go for 5" grip + 6" = 11

I've heard a lot about trimming on the shark so I think thats the technique I need to work on. Not to mention trying to play on real settings I think I have immortal on as I havent blown myself up yet even when I should have!

Did you ever do anything with the pots on the logitech? I picked one up tonight (for my rudder) and the wiring is a bit odd. The pots have only two wires...

I also did a mod with the Aviator stick, for a control panel with 18 switches and 5 pots (trims, prop pitch, etc) that worked great.

This stick is USB version?

Sokol1

PropNut, pots that are wired with two wires are typically being used as a resistance device instead of a voltage divider device.

The early PC joysticks used the pot to vary the amount of time a capacitor discharged and this was converted to a 0..255 value. Most "modern" joysticks or other analog input systems use the potentiometer as a voltage divider. This means that one wire is ground, the other is +5 and the third is the "wiper" of the pot. This wiper wire is what the input is derived from and is typically run through a component that will generate a 10bit or more (1024 vs 255) value for the input position.

Clear as mud?

g.

+1 Gene; Just for extra clarity, read up potentiometers and rheostats; http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Potentiometer#Rheostat - the pots on my suncom were wired up as rheostats, which caused me some head-scratching. Had some fun with my multimeter to figure out the proper wiring sequence on that one, and now that Leo's site appears to be up, I'm probably going to go back and hall-probe it at some point too.

Well I never did anything with the pots, after buying a few more joysticks I have all the trim wheels I could possible need without creating a need for more. I basically left them alone and crammed them into my project box.

Anyone ever tried cannibalizing some of the TM sticks for these types of projects? Not the expensive ones just the cheap ps3/HAWX type sticks?

With entry level Tm stick (or other brands) you do the same thing relate here, just use your USB controller to hook your new pots/sensors, momentary or toggle switch's.
The only exception is Tm.16000M, in this X an Y axis have a different connections - 5 wires
to work with Melexis 3D HALL sensor.

Pictures of disassembled T.16000M:

http://www.checksix-forums.com/showthread.php?t=164787

Sokol1

Once I get out of the range of entry level USB controllers I just bite the bullet and move onto X-Keys or similar. I have an X-keys 128 input device but haven't had a chance to start the project yet. But as Sokol points out its not different on the type of controller you're referring to. I chose my controllers based on availability around the house nothing else.... I had them and they were free lol.

I'd look at what you want out of the controller. Are you looking to build your own stick using the electronics? Or are you simply throwing some switches and trim dials in a box for a custom switch panel. For a controller you may want to hack a decent joystick so you have a quality base to work from. On the other hand if you're looking for some switches to flip any cheap USB stick will work. You can get some logitech sticks that sell for $20 and have close to 20 buttons and 4 axis'!

Another stick you may want to consider hacking is a T16000M ... 4 axes (2 of those are tied to its single hall-effect sensor, though), 16 buttons + 1 hat ... and programmable with TARGET.

It's certainly not as hacker-friendly as the Aviator, but ... worth considering at ~$30.00

As for wiring switches like the ones in your picture, you just solder a wire from the 2 contacts on the board to the 2 contacts on the switch (simplest option). If your switches have more than 2 contacts (such as a momentary toggle that can be pushed up or down from center, or a lighted pushbutton), you just have to make sure to connect the wires to the correct contacts.

For your type of switch or button, you'll want normally open contacts (so that a button press closes the circuit).

edit - wow, I apparently missed half the thread prior to posting that ... nevermind. :]

I think I am going to grab at least a single T16000M and incorporate it into my pit when I build it. I don't want or need a lot of switches but it would be good to use that for the trim functions and keep that stuff off my Warthog.

LOL all good we can always use a refresher! If they're is one thing I found from these projects it's that anyone can do it. I had no experience or skills going into my projects and I didn't fry anything, burn the house down and ended up with working projects. I made multiple errors wiring things up from lack of knowledge or exp. I just re-wired until things were right. In at least the case of the Logitech Wingman project I'd just leave the board plugged in to the PC and move wires around until I figured out what input I was working with. The diagrams a few of the guys posted in here helped greatly in the process. In any case anyone can do this stuff.

Slight update!

I fried the board on my Saitek Pro flight pedals some time ago (inserted wrong USB hub pwr adapter lol). So I hooked up the pots on the rudder pedals to the Logitech Wingman pot leads to give me rudder and toe brakes. It's not great but it works. I just drilled a hole thru the pedal casing and used cat 5 for the wiring. I didn't take any pics during the process but I'm happy I finally used the Logitech pots even if I'm not happy about frying the pedal's electronics!

I hoping to start on some panels and possibly a dash for A10C but I'm low on funds and have a newborn ATM! I do have a 128 XKeys input device now where is that free time?