yeah 1/125 is a sweet spot:)

Lovely dudes.
I was shooting at 1/125-200 at duxford with mixed results as I was trying to stand on one of those aluminium/canvas chairs with the wind gusting right when I was away to hit the button.Very annoying!

Thanks SGT_ROCK.I will add that to the top.

Andrew, might be a good idea to add this link on Fencecheck.

http://www.fencecheck.com/forums/index.php/topic,772.0.html

As RPMs and number of blades has something to do with your shutter settings.

SP 1/100



Also might want to add a blip about how helo's are harder to get the prop blur down due to the rear rotor turning much faster than the main rotor.

Roger Dodger Dave!Cheers

here's a very useful series of Flash presentations from Canon Japan for people completely new to DSLRs and wanting to understand some of the concepts and terminology. It's also useful for people with high-end compacts with manual settings.

http://web.canon.jp/Imaging/enjoydslr/

Nice one Adam,link added.

worth a read as a starter
http://www.photo.net/learn/airshow/

Link added to the list Scott,cheers.

having re-read the guide, a footnote to the zoom/shutter speed section - you also need to factor in the crop factor.

For example, a 200mm on a full frame sensor will, as a rule of thumb, require at least 1/200 for a sharp picture.

However, on something like a Canon Rebel/350D, with a crop factor of x1.6, that 200mm becomes a virtual 320mm lens, thus needing a shutter speed of 1/320 for the same effect.

I would probably go further and say use x2 as a guide e.g. 1/400 if you want clear sharp pictures.

Naturally this is modified by the skill of the photographer, tripod use, image stabilisation, and most importantly, available light

...and as the guide says, you ignore it all if you want movement of any sort in your photo!

a very useful blog for people trying photographic lighting on a budget:

http://strobist.blogspot.com/