Copy that.
I already have 3 LCD monitors sitting here. They were 159.00 ea. I figure if they didn't work out on the pit, they would come in handy on one of my other 8 computers, ehehe. I'm pretty far from the THTG cause I'd have to change over to 2 Nvidia based cards. My ATI's dont do well with it.
The problem I had with Fresnel's is the distance that you have when in a simpit is farther than just sitting at a desk. And that focal point is not available. 30". Not at a reasonable price anyway. Then , both fresnels I tried out had the light reflection issue that just plain bothered me. Clarity was also questionable. So in the end, I am going away from fresnels at the moment. Might return to them if I saw/see the right setup. But havnt even found anyone in any flightsim forum that has them setup correctly. The 10 or so inches of difference from a desk flyer and the simpit flyer is HUGE with regards to focal distance.
Now, the fresnel DOES look attractive for the racing simpit where you can sit closer to the screen. I kept my old one for a racing pit maybe next winter. Some minor testing with it looks promising. You're not really looking for that expansive view when racing. Pretty much focused straight ahead. I think that is why they work better in the racing simpit.
The problem with CRT's is shipping costs. That east up your savings. The size and weight is also an issue. Not problem with the gap. That is actually quite realistic.

I did a brief test with 2 widescreens and it works quite well.
This is probably not my final setup, if there ever is a final simpit setup, LOL. Its just a drection to fly with for awhile.

Dark, got any pics of your setup? Keep those ideas coming...

I forgot all about the nVidia requirement for TH2G, you're definately right about that, ATI doesnt cut it.

No pics of my setup yet. I had to get a new desk to accomodate the 200 lbs of monitor, but I havent hooked up any flight gear yet. I'm currently using my office chair, on rollers, which makes it impossible to use pedals. I tried it... you just push yourself all over the floor, and the pedals hardly move. I need to find myself a nice car seat like everyone else is doing. My goal is to build a usable desk that doubles as a simpit, not a dedicated simpit thats useless for anything but playing games. I spend a LOT of time on this thing, its gotta do it all. I'll definatley record my fresnel building attempts for all ya peeps tho.

Re: fresnel lens focal lengths, I think you just never got the right lens. The icetec lens you had was crap, obviously, and I think the big TV magnifier one you got was just too big and low quality. I can't say for sure yet, as I've only played w/ mine by holding it up in front of the monitor, but I'm fairly certain that you can easily sit at least 24" from the lens w/ the 650mm focal length. Another guy in the rcsnet.org fresnel thread claimed you can sit up to 30" away no problem. I know I've held it as far as my arms will reach, and it still looked great. The only problem w/ that kind of range is you can't magnify the image as much. However you still get all the benefits of collimated display and seemless triple-screen.

FYI i got my lens from here http://stores.ebay.com/FRESNEL-LENSES They pretty much carry all the same lenses as 3dlens.com, but they ship from either the UK or Florida (mine came from the UK, i guess florida was out of stock). Packing was less than stellar, but I got 4 lenses, shipped in 2 separate packages, and all made it across the pond without a scratch. For anyone considering these things, don't worry about the size, just get the longest focal length you can (650 mm). Unless you have a 30" lcd or something crazy, the lens will be more than big enuf, and you can always cut it down to your requirements.

Here's a Sim Seat..touch expensive though




Pilot’s Seat Key Features List Features:

Enables you adopt the same sitting position as a pilot does in the cockpit in comfort and total control
Genuine Corbeau racing seat
Rigid steel frame construction
Lifetime chassis guarantee
Fully adjustable ………. (yoke) and paddles
Easy to assemble
The ultimate pilot’s seat simulation
Throttle quadrant mount can be mounted on either side of the seat
Rudder pedals are positioned flat to the floor
Second quadrant mount may be used to support a keyboard
Improved shorter design to enable user to be closer to the monitor
A USB hub can be mounted anywhere on the Flight sim

Suitable for all ages, heights and builds SRP:£399.99 inc VAT.

http://rcsimulations.com/

Aw shucks...thanks.
Seriously, I'm glad I could provide some inspiration. As much as I like getting my ego stroked, that's really what the pics are all about.

I don't fly the russian helos much. (Not that this pit would work well for that anyway.)
I'll just have to patiently wait for development on the "blue" side. Honestly, it's not much of a wait either because I'm still designing and constructing it.
I've been building it up a panel at a time, over the last year or so, but I won't disassemble my old pit and assemble this one, until everything is ready.

I still have a few more left-side panels, the seat, and the enclosure to go.

"Sleep....it's over-rated!" (Battle cry of the pit builder.)

Do you guys use spade bits for drilling holes in lexan for switches?

Any drilling tips?

Thanks

Laser - I wouldn't use a spade bit for anything except ripping holes into lumber. They're like trying to do brain surgery, with a chainsaw.
Regular drill bits do fine. However, my favorite bit, for most thin panel work, is a step bit. It will do larger than standard bit size holes and adds a level of convienience, by having all the sizes chucked up at once. (A must have. IMHO)

As far as tips...With Lexan/plexiglass, leave the protective film on until you're done. Actually, I also use a wide masking tape and tape the whole piece first. Not only does it give me a surface that I can mark on, but it also helps to minimize splintering and "tear-outs". I always start a plastic project, with a new drill bit, too.

As far as general drilling tips:
1. SHARP DRILLS!!! If you buy a cheap bit, you'll get a cheap hole. Replace or sharpen them, as they dull.
2. Don't force the feed rate. Let the drill do the cutting, not your biceps. (Or, you're back to #1.) Also, when cutting metal, a few drops of cutting fluid makes all the difference.
3. Use a center punch, to locate your centers. (If you're gonna guess, why bother marking it!)
3. Don't drill a big hole, in one step. (You'll never get it right.) Start with a smaller bit and drill out the center point first. Depending on the final diameter, you may need to step up a couple of times.
4. Make sure your piece is clamped down and stable. Nothing will break a bit and f#*k up a hole faster, than a piece that can move.
5. If you're going to do this alot, invest in a small drill press. (A must if you're going to be tapping the holes.) They are very reasonably priced. All of the problems that the above tips address are greatly minimized, by using a drill press.

For holes that are too big for a bit, I'll use Greenlee knock-out punches or a scroll saw.

Hope that helps. Have fun.

Thanks Griz! Excellent info.

10-4. Griz is on the money..

Remember that the hole doesn't have to be perfect. The switch will actually give you a bit of coverage around the edge, so the hole doesn't have to be exactly perfect. I just get mine close.

Heres a good TIP. make a black and white template first. Tape that to the lexan and mark the holes with a punch. The nice color background comes later after all the holes are drilled. I actually have a picture of the switches on the black and white template so I can see how much room there is all around. Dont be afraid to screw up a piece of lexan either. The 8.5x11" that I get are only 2.99. I have a few screw ups out in the garage.
And dont worry about get it it "right" the first time. Make another one after you have used it a bit and get the feel for where you want the buttons. You might want to add one or two later after you use it a bit.

Dont forget the lights !!! Do you want some small LED's to illuminate it? Drill the holes and plan for that now.

I have the whole pit apart and have been doing allot of updates. heres some pics. I did some testing with the 2 monitor setup. Final setup will be with 3> 19" widescreens. No dot on my forehead needed.







I got this Elect panel off Ebay to control the electrics to the whole pit.

link